• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

smr 510 question

B-Turbo

B-Turbo

Husqvarna
A Class
So I bought my 09 husky smr 510 with 2656 miles on it. I just hit 3500 miles or so . When and/or how often should I be looking into checking the valves? And it seems pretty simple to do it myself but I wasn't sure of there is anything special I should know aboot or is it straight forward? I work on cars n trucks all the time so I'm quite alright with things mechanical lol.
 
One of the easiest bikes to check AND adjust the valves I've ever seen. I did my first one without pulling the tank a few weeks ago, I removed the front bolt and propped the tank up in the air with some wood scraps and I had enough room to remove the valve cover and check the valves, a little cramped but not too bad. It's easier to go ahead and remove the tank, and un-moor the ECU from its perch, if you are gonna have to replace any shims, that gives you all the room you need.
 
Lol that's good to know. But how often should I be checking them? Thanks for the info too!
 
B-Turbo said:
Lol that's good to know. But how often should I be checking them? Thanks for the info too!
Click to expand...

That's a big variable, check them now and map that to how it sounds cold (rattle/no rattle), how it starts hot (hard to start or easy), you might start off with no rattle, easy starting and then the valves are all within spec. As time goes on, it becomes harder to start (valves might be getting tight) or you start hearing a rattle weven after warm up (valves getting loose). I don't have a set schedule for checking the vavles, if I'm in there doing something else, I check them, if the bike is running good and starting easy, with no rattles, I dont check them sometimes for a couple thousand miles.
 
Now that you have 3500 miles, i'd pull the top off every 50 hours or so just to check the cam bearings and check the valves while you are in there.
 
Ok cool. Just gives me an idea of when to start keeping an eye on things lol. Thanks again for the help!
 
So I went ahead and did my valve checks!

Heres how it went.....
1. Set up the work space.
ResizedImage_1368333254128.jpg

2. Like comments above, I didnt remove the tank or anything but radiator side shrouds. Just propd the gas tank wit some clothes and a wooden wire brush :rolleyes:.

ResizedImage_1368333254598.jpg
ResizedImage_1368333255186.jpg

3. Removed valve cover to reveal the goooooooooooooods!

ResizedImage_1368333253555.jpg

Does this look like TDC to you?? I saw the other thread on doing the 250 but the alignment 'lines' were on the camgears and not the 'timing gear'? Correct me if im saying the wrong parts lol.
 
If i did well i get to eat this******************************************************************************** Please tell me i get to eat it............:DResizedImage_1368333256515.jpg




If this was indeed TDC. Then the exhaust valves were at .006in and intake valves were .004in.
Which according to my trusty Dealer Manual they r both in range and A-OK!
 
Awesome lol ya it really didn't take long at all considering I've never done this on a bike before lol
 
I have a 09 smr also. I lost my big/crank bearing at 12900mi and I hear it can go sooner. Be prepared to have parts on hand or you will be waiting for parts as I am. Go ahead and order your parts now.
 
ToastAD7 said:
I have a 09 smr also. I lost my big/crank bearing at 12900mi and I hear it can go sooner. Be prepared to have parts on hand or you will be waiting for parts as I am. Go ahead and order your parts now.
Click to expand...
The big end of the con rod? Are you going with a 530 kit? If not what con rod are you getting, stock or aftermarket?
Sorry for jacking:-)
 
lol thanks. It took a very long time to get this bike but what i got is more then worth the wait. Now i just need new tires.....already gone lol cords showing through :censored:

lol i dont mind anyone jumping in on my threads
 
Ya man I hear you. I searched for a 510 for a year; after I bought my 610I was hooked lol. I needed to get a carb tho, just my likings. I just got some Bridgestone S20. I like em. Really sticky but it's probably gonna hurt the mileage. I don't see it lasting long at all haha. The new pilot power 3 came out n apparently it's top
Notch too
 
CJoe,
cjoecruz003 said:
The big end of the con rod? Are you going with a 530 kit? If not what con rod are you getting, stock or aftermarket?
Sorry for jacking:-)
Click to expand...

Yup, my local shop has my 530 kit and I had George at Up-Tite rebuild the crank. George sounds like a cool cat, and as though he knows his chit.
 
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