• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

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Seeping around base gasket after 310 install

D

dogen

Husqvarna
A Class
I just finished installing an Athena 310 kit on my 2006 TE250. After running the bike for a bit I noticed a small amount of oil seeping from the base of the cylinder. I had previously installed a big bore kit on my KLR650 and I applied gasket sealant at the base of the cylinder but I didn't do that on the 310 install because the instructions didn't mention it.

Has anyone else had some seapage around the base gasket after the 310 install that resolved on its own? Or will I have to go through the whole process again to apply gasket sealant?
 
The base gasket is directional. I.E. it has a front and a back. It's easy to get it on backwards. That might be your problem.
 
Hi Dogen,

It's not a good feeling to have a leaking gasket after a rebuild.

You will need to strip it down and use a sealant. Normally I just use one that will remain pliable, so it's easy to get off next time. I only used a small amount where the crack of the cases meet on the jointing surface. That's the only spot that I've had let go, but this was on the Yammie 290f.

Good luck with it.
 
Thanks guys. I was hoping someone would say this happens all the time and will go away on its own but I guess not. Oh well...it'll probably be easier the second time around!
 
I would retorque before disassembly.
In my crews world we never use sealant on std/OEM base gaskets.
Does the OEM spec call out for sealant?
 
Jmetter, I'd post a picture but the bike is presently in a friend's heated garage 1 & 1/2 hours from me.


robertaccio;65390 said:
I would retorque before disassembly.
In my crews world we never use sealant on std/OEM base gaskets.
Does the OEM spec call out for sealant?
Click to expand...

You might be on to something Robertaccio. I'd forgotten until now that we didn't torque the four hex-head inner screws in the cylinder head to the recommended specs because we were worried about stripping them. It wouldn't be difficult to torque these down properly and check some others before totally tearing down the engine again.

There was no mention of requiring sealant in the instructions and I just checked the workshop manual and it doesn't call for sealant either.
 
Hey Dogen,

Any update? Did you get it sorted?

Be sure to post up a ride report on the 310. :thumbsup:
 
I won't be getting out to my buddy's place to work on the bike for a couple of weeks. I'll update this thread after that.
 
Don't use any sealants and don't retorque. You will have to rebuilt. Same happened to me too, :banghead: most probably it leaks at the front left side. The base gasket is very thin in the area of the distribution chain housing. Putting the cilinder back on you will have most probably moved it a bit when aligning and trying to keep the distribution chain out of the crank case and in between the chain guides. Before reassembling and mounting the cilinder head, carefully check the gaskets.

You will probably also want to re-jet. Funny enough I am running a smaller main jet (174 vs. 178) but mounted the needle 1 ring higher.
Other riders increased the mainjet to 182-184. Mine still is firing up in cold starts without choke at first attempt.? Seems that not all bikes are the same.

The 310 kit gives you much more low and mid range but dowside is that it will not rev as high as it did with a 250 cilinder. That is a pitty.

You might need to re gear. The original 250 gearing is too short now (1 or 2 teeth less on the rear sprocket will do.

Good luck

Good luvk
 
Don't feel bad, I just did the same thing! :banghead: The frustrating part is that when you take it apart and look at it closely, it's pretty obvious which way it should go on. Take a look at the pic below, you can see the gasket sticking out of the rear of the cylinder, but none showing in the front. If yours looks like this, it's backwards.

DSCN2234.jpg
[/IMG]
 
Very interesting. Just as in the last 2 posts mine is seeping oil from the left front side of the engine.
We were supposed to tear into the engine this weekend but we've had to delay it because of some repairs my friend has to do on his car.
 
socaltrailrider;69528 said:
Don't feel bad, I just did the same thing! :banghead: The frustrating part is that when you take it apart and look at it closely, it's pretty obvious which way it should go on. Take a look at the pic below, you can see the gasket sticking out of the rear of the cylinder, but none showing in the front. If yours looks like this, it's backwards.

DSCN2234.jpg
[/IMG]
Click to expand...

I did the same thing when i change the piston for the first time on my old TC250 -05
It´s very easy to put it backwards :thumbsdown:
 
I emailed my buddy the picture Socaltrailrider posted and he compared it with my bike. Sure enough - we put the gasket on backwards :banghead:
Thanks for posting the picture - it solved the mystery!
 
dogen said:
I emailed my buddy the picture Socaltrailrider posted and he compared it with my bike. Sure enough - we put the gasket on backwards :banghead:
Thanks for posting the picture - it solved the mystery!
Click to expand...
I have always had great success with a Permatex product caled copper gasket sealant that comes in an aresol can and provides a thin and tacky application and it also improves thermal conductivity.I use this to seal my 430 air cooled that that has no gasket and i apply it by spraying it into a spray paint can lid and apply with a Q-tip.
 
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