• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Replacing spokes Question

Daniel508s

Daniel508s

Husqvarna
AA Class
What is the easiest way to replace your spokes? I'm thinking, take one off, then put new one on :excuseme:. Just looking the for easiest way, that will not effect the true-ness of the wheel.

Thanks
 
Good question and I too would like to know if that is a good approach. Any guru's out there with a comment please?
 
If you change one spoke at a time you will not likely disturb the hub locale within the wheel but you will affect the true-ness unless you are very fortunate. It is truly amazing how far you can 'pull' a rim with spoke tension.
 
I am not a guru, but have built and rebuilt a good number of wheels over the years. My new TE630 is slated for a new set of wheels as soon as it arrives.

You could do it that way, but I reckon the best way for me is to first measure or calculate the offset between the rim and hub (on a straight wheel) then completely disassemble the wheel to be re-laced and true in a truing stand with offset checked with the appropriate offset tool.
As mentioned, there are a few problems associated with wheel building. The rim can be pulled into all manner of shapes with hub out of centre, incorrect offset, localised flat spots which are a bugger to remove or any combination of the above. A danger is over (or under) tensioned spokes which may break (the spokes) or crack the rim with potentially disastrous consequences if it goes unchecked.

The cost of truing stand and offset tool plus the extras like a torque wrench and nipple spanners will go for more than the labour on pro built wheels, but you will have it for life. Don't know about you, but I bang my wheels around enough to justify the expenditure.

JMO

Cheers,

Numbers
 
here's a nice write up: http://crfsonly.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=13015

I'm in the midst of truing some wheels as I type this. I assembled them last night (easy) and tightened the spokes using a spoke torque wrench (using the every 3rd spoke method), but they're way out-a-whack.

Going to try again tonight after reading AS's writeup. If I have any helpful input then I'll post up afterward.
 
PC.;116862 said:
here's a nice write up: http://crfsonly.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=13015

I'm in the midst of truing some wheels as I type this. I assembled them last night (easy) and tightened the spokes using a spoke torque wrench (using the every 3rd spoke method), but they're way out-a-whack.

Going to try again tonight after reading AS's writeup. If I have any helpful input then I'll post up afterward.
Click to expand...

that works sometimes when everything is perfect. The truing stand and ping the spokes approach works better for me.
 
128954431;116804 said:
The cost of truing stand and offset tool plus the extras like a torque wrench and nipple spanners will go for more than the labour on pro built wheels, but you will have it for life. Don't know about you, but I bang my wheels around enough to justify the expenditure.

JMO

Cheers,

Numbers
Click to expand...

Thanks for the advice :thumbsup:
I now believe, that investing in the proper tools (not short cutting), would be the best bet.
 
It isn't hard to make your own truing stand and offset tools.
A Marc Parnes type wheel balancer can be used in a pinch or put the wheel back on the bike and give it a spin.
Common sense should tell you when the spokes feel tight or not and like Kelly says: listen for the ping.
If you have access to a new bike, grab a spoke wrench and see how tight they feel and listen to them.
 
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