• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Replaced gaskets, now it's locked up!

gixxer188

gixxer188

Husqvarna
A Class
Yesterday I replaced the base & cylinder gaskets on my 2008 SM450R and now it's locked up. The rear wheel doesn't roll when it's in gear and it doesn't turn over/won't start.

I lined up the the two dots on the timing chain with the line on the case and took pictures of the cam placement before I took them out. Everything was torqued back down to spec per the manual. The piston/rings slipped back into the cylinder just fine and everything went back together as it was before. The bike has been running great except for an oil leak at the base gasket which is why I replaced it. And now it doesn't do anything. Does anyone have any ideas of what it might be before I tear it down again?

Other than setting the engine to TDC by bumping the rear wheel while the bike is in 2nd gear how would you set TDC and the correct timing? There are small alignment dots on the sprocket of each Cam, the double dots on the Cam chain as well as single dots. Are these all supposed to line up with each other somehow?
 
gixxer188 said:
Yesterday I replaced the base & cylinder gaskets on my 2008 SM450R and now it's locked up. The rear wheel doesn't roll when it's in gear and it doesn't turn over/won't start.

I lined up the the two dots on the timing chain with the line on the case and took pictures of the cam placement before I took them out. Everything was torqued back down to spec per the manual. The piston/rings slipped back into the cylinder just fine and everything went back together as it was before. The bike has been running great except for an oil leak at the base gasket which is why I replaced it. And now it doesn't do anything. Does anyone have any ideas of what it might be before I tear it down again?
Click to expand...

Do you have the dots on the cams aligned with the dots on the cam chain wheel? They're kind of hard to see. Have you seen this thread? It may shed some light on the situation.

http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/foolproof-cam-timing.3108/
 
Phoenix said:
Do you have the dots on the cams aligned with the dots on the cam chain wheel? They're kind of hard to see. Have you seen this thread? It may shed some light on the situation.

http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/foolproof-cam-timing.3108/
Click to expand...

At present I do not, when I set the Cam chain double dots to align with the mark on the case the dots on the Cam gears were not aligned with the single dots on the Cam chain gear. So I put it back together the same way it was when I took it apart.
 
Moving thread because it seems a better fit in the 4 Stroke forum :)

From:
EFI/carb
ibeat, Power Commander, Carb jetting...

To:
4 Stroke
 
Just an update. I rotated the Cam chain gear to align the two dots with the mark on the case while the piston was at TDC (top of the stroke). Then I followed the the process for aligning the Cam gears and now the bike turns over just fine but it won't start. It tries to start and it backfired once but just won't start and run.

Also I noticed that while I was rotating the Cam gear to align dots to the mark that there is enough free play that it's hard to tell whether it's really aligned correctly or not.

Also, is there a good/reliable way to determine that the piston is at TDC? You know, that point just before it starts on the down stroke. Seeing as I can't bump the rear wheel backwards to rotate the Cam chain back if I go too far. Using an allen wrench in the spark plug hole is fine but it's not very accurate.

And what's with this stupid decompression lever? I removed the cable from the side of the engine and now the spring doesn't have any tension and I can't get the cable back into the lever on the side of the engine. I'd like to remove it all together but I can't get those guys over at Ty to respond to making me one of their plugs.
 
gixxer188 said:
Also, is there a good/reliable way to determine that the piston is at TDC? You know, that point just before it starts on the down stroke. Seeing as I can't bump the rear wheel backwards to rotate the Cam chain back if I go too far. Using an allen wrench in the spark plug hole is fine but it's not very accurate.
Click to expand...

I have thought about getting one of these, as I am not very confident in my ability to pinpoint TDC with the straw-in-spark-plug-hole method. Has anybody used one? I think the thread size of the spark plug hole is 10mm.

http://ape-store.com/shopsite/page15.html
 
gixxer188 said:
Also I noticed that while I was rotating the Cam gear to align dots to the mark that there is enough free play that it's hard to tell whether it's really aligned correctly or not.
Click to expand...

There really shouldn't be any free play, I may be misunderstanding your meaning.

gixxer188 said:
Seeing as I can't bump the rear wheel backwards to rotate the Cam chain back if I go too far. Using an allen wrench in the spark plug hole is fine but it's not very accurate.
Click to expand...

I put the bike in 6th gear and just barely tap-tap-tap it and I've tapped it backwards to get a perfect TDC position. I also dont use a metal object for the indicator, I use a drinking straw.

Put the double dots in line with the mark on the case. Then take a picture of the cam lobes, they will be pointing upwards at an angle like a pitched roof on a house, post the picture and let us look at the slopes.
 
gixxer188 said:
Just an update. I rotated the Cam chain gear to align the two dots with the mark on the case while the piston was at TDC (top of the stroke). Then I followed the the process for aligning the Cam gears and now the bike turns over just fine but it won't start. It tries to start and it backfired once but just won't start and run.

Also I noticed that while I was rotating the Cam gear to align dots to the mark that there is enough free play that it's hard to tell whether it's really aligned correctly or not.

Also, is there a good/reliable way to determine that the piston is at TDC? You know, that point just before it starts on the down stroke. Seeing as I can't bump the rear wheel backwards to rotate the Cam chain back if I go too far. Using an allen wrench in the spark plug hole is fine but it's not very accurate.

And what's with this stupid decompression lever? I removed the cable from the side of the engine and now the spring doesn't have any tension and I can't get the cable back into the lever on the side of the engine. I'd like to remove it all together but I can't get those guys over at Ty to respond to making me one of their plugs.
Click to expand...

One of your cams if off by 1 tooth. My 2011 did the same thing and the exhaust cam was off by one.

Rather than spinning the rear wheel to move the crank, use a breaker bar on the crank on the stator side. Much much easier. This assumes your still in assembly mode and don't have oil in it though.

On you decomp lever, disconnect it from the handlebar lever first then is should be easier to install the other end two the engine. PIA either way though.
 
Well, I was racing the GSXR all weekend so I didn't have any time to get back to working on the Husky until last night.

What I found was that the Timing Chain gear was off by one tooth, the two dots were to the left of the mark on the engine case when at TDC. So I spent an hour adjusting it the one tooth and re-aligning the Cam gears to the single dots on the Timing Chain gear and now the bike runs perfectly!

I removed the decomp. cable from the lever end but it still doesn't have enough length to reattach it to the other end. The metal sleeve came off the end of the cable and now it won't go back on over the rubber coating. Ty Racing finally got back to me only to say they aren't making the plugs anymore because no one wanted them. So now I most likely have to buy a new cable to make it work again, either that or I'm just going to safety wire it closed and remove the lever and cable completely.
 
Thanks, this Husky is so easy to work on once you understand it. It was my son's 1st birthday on Saturday so I only raced the one race but then ran 3 on Sunday. I stalled the bike at the start of the UNL SBK race but still managed to come back and finish 3rd.

Todd Carlson #188 - New PB: 1:15.7
Saturday: Amature F40 - 1st Place
Sunday: Amature F40 - 1st Place
Sunday: Amature Unlimited GP - 3rd Place
Sunday: Amature Unlimited Superbike - 3rd Place

Videos are here > http://www.youtube.com/user/gixxer188
 
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