• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Repack muffler te310?

wakka

wakka

Husqvarna
A Class
Tried to dissasembly my muffler on my te310 2011 bit i cannot get the inner parts dissasemblied, has anyone done this before?
 
It's a double wall muffler and very hard to take apart. You have to cut the inner section off.

I never repacked mine and it seems to hold up good because the are a double wall..

Frankly, you could probably buy a new one on ebay for $50. i have one or two lying around myself.

Here is a pro-tip, the Ti muffler for the 2010-2011 TC250 is a direct bolt on to the 2011 Te310.!

Much lighter and sounds the same. Easier to repack.
 
Yes, it is packed. Just finished repacking mine this winter. did not remove the 3 end cap rivets, drilled out the forward ones. put a bolt and washers across the hanger tabs, using a rubber mallet then hardwood and a hammer to rock the body sideways a little to loosen it up. it pulled apart. inside is a heavy s/steel inner liner, cut it out completely with a power saw. my inner packing was about 45% missing after 277 hours and was loud! discard the inner steel liner, saved a little weight and my FMF packing kit easily filled complete inside. There is also a steel mesh like material wrapped around perforated tube, reuse this. I should have taken pics but I remember looking for a snap ring the same size as the perforated tube for the rear inside to keep the perforated tube from moving, could have welded a washer to do the same. found some short H/D pop rivets and reassembled, use high temp silicone where body meets inlet cone. overall it feels solid. have not started the engine yet but expecting good results as this ARROW muffler looks well designed and is straight through style.
I think the inner steel liner was used because the exhaust system originally had a cat. converter.

Good luck, L.Moore
 
LBM. said:
Yes, it is packed. Just finished repacking mine this winter. did not remove the 3 end cap rivets, drilled out the forward ones. put a bolt and washers across the hanger tabs, using a rubber mallet then hardwood and a hammer to rock the body sideways a little to loosen it up. it pulled apart. inside is a heavy s/steel inner liner, cut it out completely with a power saw. my inner packing was about 45% missing after 277 hours and was loud! discard the inner steel liner, saved a little weight and my FMF packing kit easily filled complete inside. There is also a steel mesh like material wrapped around perforated tube, reuse this. I should have taken pics but I remember looking for a snap ring the same size as the perforated tube for the rear inside to keep the perforated tube from moving, could have welded a washer to do the same. found some short H/D pop rivets and reassembled, use high temp silicone where body meets inlet cone. overall it feels solid. have not started the engine yet but expecting good results as this ARROW muffler looks well designed and is straight through style.
I think the inner steel liner was used because the exhaust system originally had a cat. converter.

Good luck, L.Moore
Click to expand...


Good Job!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top