• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Recommended Chain Slack '07 Te 250?

I'm guessing 35mm. It's not real critical tho; too loose being better than too tight.

I rarely go by factory specs- especially KTM which always seemed tight to me.
 
Unless the bike has a front sprocket centered at the swingarm pivot then they are all adjusted about the same.

Best way that always works is put your chest on the seat and reach down and grab the swingarm and compress the rear shock until the center of the front sprocket the swingarm pivot and the rear axle are all lined up in a straight line. That is the point where the chain is the tightest and you should have about 20mm of slack.
 
lankydoug said:
Unless the bike has a front sprocket centered at the swingarm pivot then they are all adjusted about the same.

Best way that always works is put your chest on the seat and reach down and grab the swingarm and compress the rear shock until the center of the front sprocket the swingarm pivot and the rear axle are all lined up in a straight line. That is the point where the chain is the tightest and you should have about 20mm of slack.
Click to expand...

yeah, this way is definitely the best technique (IMO, 20mm might be a bit much. maybe 10mm? eh, probably not a big diff).

Lankydoug's method is the exact method the 2007 factory manual uses- except they recommend 0-2mm (!) clearance between the chain & slider when pushing the bottom of the chain up (so less clearance is a looser chain). Here's the excerpt from page D.37 (141) in the multi-language manual which you may already have (english is the 2nd language). The first picture is what LD means by having the sprocket (A), swingarm pivot (B) and the rear axle (C) all lined up in a straight line. This technique works on any motorcycle with 2 sprockets.

I don't use my chest, but instead use a ratcheting tie down; but whatever works for you. after you're done, note how much slack is in the chain when the suspension is relaxed and use that number as your new chain adjustment; avoiding future gymnastics.

good luck.

TE 2007 WSM chain adjust.jpg
 
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