Rebuild on a 1983 XC 250

[Down Under XC]

Hi Guys,
Well this one has been a long one and it started back in August 2014. I purchased the bike from a great guy in the US of A, Indianna more precisely, who prefers the pre 82 huskies. (I did try to convince him to join café husky but ....). A buddy who "passed" owned the bike. As it turned out (which is true for most husky owners) John was an exceptional guy, we had long emails about huskies and eventually he invited me to the states to ride a vintage round with him on one of his bikes. Wow I was blown away with his generosity, apparently links to Australia with son in law. I did not take John up on his offer as I am and still are pretty busy with kids/ wife and work. Anyway could not sort out the shifting issue in gearbox (known problem when purchased) and good old Bendigo Mick came to the rescue and also recoed the ITC shocks. GMC did some welding mods to frame and lengthened clutch actuator, gear shift and brake arms. Picked up a disc brake front end. Stripped the bike and started the rebuild. New wossner piston and only on first oversize but uptite signature on conrod/crankshaft. Been busy buying bits and pieces from around the globe (mainly HVA) and looking forward to build from here on****************************************! so here are a few before and after shots. Hopefully will be ready for the A4DE in April****************************************
I have been blown away with the café husky forum and the goodwill of everybody involved from those on the Italian husky sub forum to the Swedish vintage sub forum. Keep up the great work.

 

[arbortodd2]

Looks like you have a good start on it. Keep the rebuild pics coming. I also picked up a 1983 XC250. Bought it to make a respectable rider. It is rough but mostly all there. Just rebuilt the top end and new bearings/seals on the bottom. Have put some time on it breaking in the engine. Soon I will be removing the engine to restore the frame, forks, etc. I will share some pics as progress is made. Good luck with your rebuild.

 

[ajcmbrown]

It looks like you're getting stuck into it, should look great when finished, these were one of the best looking Huskies in my opinion.
Tony

 

[suprize]

get one of andys 400 air cooled jugs for it ...that will solve the 250's power problems

 

[Down Under XC]

Hi Surprize,
Might speak to Andy about it, but all the hard work done. Its already bored slightly over what original was and new wossner piston.
So 400 is essentially a 250 bottom end and a bigger piston then ???

The 250's are a bit under done then in your opinion ?

 

[Down Under XC]

Hi Guys,
To all those Husqvarna followers that have contributed to this great site I wish you all a merry Xmas and a happy new year.

 

[Bigbill]

Future thought, Put a cr250 cylinder on it with the two extra ports. My 84/250wr with the cr cylinder flies. Lots more power over my two 83/250wrs ever had.

Happy Xmas.

 

[suprize]

they were a bit underdone (IMHO) and the w/c engine in 84.5 was a vast improvement. i like Bills comment as the WR went allright but had funny power characteristics stock. sort of starts well off the bottom and gives you a momentary "this seems allright!" then it falls flat on its face for a bit then as you wring its neck it gives a last little top end spurt but overall its like they tried to give it power everywhere but compromised on everything. the one i rode was pretty fresh was jetted well and ran nice. it was good enough to convince me to buy the waterbottle model but after a kdx 250, the a/c motor was a dissapointment...Unless your gunna race it though it will be fine for riding around. you may decide its good. the original owner of the 83 i rode thought it was fantastic (he used to ride yamahas....)

 

[Down Under XC]

Hi Suprize and Big Bill,

They are interesting comments you both make..........
The KDX 250 I have is now jetted very well and flies, huge bottom end, great mid and top and no complaints by me. In fact bottom end I have to be careful as they strip the primary gears either first second.
I have already bored and done cylinder but could easily get another CR cylinder.
The other issue is fuel type here in Australia.

Thanks Guys and all the best for the festive season.

 

[Bigbill]

Talk about the fuel issue. I been running my Husqvarna do professional chainsaws on ethonal with husky two stroke oil. It took 20 cords of fire wood to break them in. I have a 353XP, a 575XP and the 385XP. I purchased the already pre mix Husqvarna two stroke fuel in a can. It’s 50:1 and it’s high test gas. My son cut up some branches and I heard the saw screaming. What a difference in the fuel. I would of never guessed it would be so different. The ethonal fuel is garbage, I wonder what a difference the old high test non ethanol gas would make in our cars, bikes and other equipment? So far I stock piled two cases away of the Husqvarna 2t fuel mix.

 

[justintendo]

Talk about the fuel issue. I been running my Husqvarna do professional chainsaws on ethonal with husky two stroke oil. It took 20 cords of fire wood to break them in. I have a 353XP, a 575XP and the 385XP. I purchased the already pre mix Husqvarna two stroke fuel in a can. It’s 50:1 and it’s high test gas. My son cut up some branches and I heard the saw screaming. What a difference in the fuel. I would of never guessed it would be so different. The ethonal fuel is garbage, I wonder what a difference the old high test non ethanol gas would make in our cars, bikes and other equipment? So far I stock piled two cases away of the Husqvarna 2t fuel mix.

if you have a pump nearby, easier to mix racegas and e0 50/50 for the same effect. keeps a long time in good containers. none of my small engines ever see ethanol. there are gas stations around here that sell e0, 91 octane. plenty for the mower and whatnot. vp 110 is available at a few places here for 8 dollars a gallon..with that i dont see the point of small pints of canned fuel, which is usually stated as 95.

do you have nowhere near you selling e0? checked puregas.org?

 

[Bigbill]

We have a station a few towns over with the non ethanol gas. I just never realized the difference.

 

[justintendo]

We have a station a few towns over with the non ethanol gas. I just never realized the difference.

keep a few 5 gallon cans of that..plenty for really all small engine stuff. blend it with some racegas for the bikes.

 

[suprize]

the kdx 250 - 83 to 85 (i think us got an 82?) was the best a/c enduro motor i ever rode. nothing would stop it if you could keep a micron of throttle on it would tractor up anything. "the Hill" where we rode had a legends list for those who got up it...became a speedbump once i got the dx, i would crest it in second wheelieing over. sensational control and big flat powerband. the brakes and forks were very suspect...thats why im so fast down hills...

 

[dartyppyt]

the kdx 250 - 83 to 85 (i think us got an 82?) was the best a/c enduro motor i ever rode. nothing would stop it if you could keep a micron of throttle on it would tractor up anything. "the Hill" where we rode had a legends list for those who got up it...became a speedbump once i got the dx, i would crest it in second wheelieing over. sensational control and big flat powerband. the brakes and forks were very suspect...thats why im so fast down hills...

Is that when Penton got involved with the KDX's?

 

[suprize]

i rekon they were working on the 200's

 

[Down Under XC]

Hi Guys,
The KDX story in Australia started with the 175 and enough said about that. The 200's came in as non ADR model in the A1 (think) and G'day, myself and a mate got three at the same time. We instantly went from clubman to expert in pace as they were so good and ahead of their competition. Glenn and I did the Wonthaggi Pony Express and all top runners were on the new KDX 200's. Other than nipping up they were a sensational bike. Better fine tuning or change of slide(KDX250 slide) to smooth out mid range and gut pipe and they were a weapon (other than brakes).
Surprize. You are right about the 250, we got 82 models and they were sold as 83 as far as I can work out. Mine is a ex Gippsland bike and has an early model rear drum brake out of an 81/82, but frame is clearly marked as a C2 and marked as 3/83.

Anyway lets not digress on Japanese influences.

 

[Down Under XC]

Some detail on the attached photographs.
As the bike is intended to be used in local VERI events I really wanted to prepare as a competition bike and not a show queen.
The Frame.
I made a few minor modifications to the frame. backing plate for rear brake pedal adjusting return bolt. Cover plates over the top shock joints that prevent dirt and water accumulating. Cover plate and filling around bottom of down tube on frame at front. Additional muffler restraint bracket. strengthening air cleaner box cleat. additional cleats for a bash plate. Strengthening of kickstand cleat. All work done by Geoff Morris Concepts (GMC) in Broadford.

The Color.
Sorry guys and dartypoint really changed my mind on this, (see his post). I could not come at the OEM dirty white, it had to be the Italian husky white.

Rear swingarm.
All new bits but some noticeable and non noticeable changes. The rear chain guide has nylon slipper plates installed requiring longer bolts. Looking to change out the OEM roller for proper roller as well. The chain tensioner is all new HVA item but I modified in assembly process to include larger and thicker washers to try and eliminate the pivot /torsional issues with OEM arrangement. Some additional rollers needed.
Swing arm bearings. Well probably should have used nylon / delrin but went OEM, however swapped out HVA needle rollers for needle rollers with a lip seal so hopefully should get longer service life. How is it they never last??????. I haven't as yet but thinking is also a oring sealer retaining washer to ensure some pressure is kept on oring to ensure it does not pop out. This is just a large diameter s/s washer that slides over the swing arm dowels.
Air cleaner box. It had some damage so fibreglassed the hole and repaired some cracks on box as well. I use old floor sanding belts to scuff roughen the area which gives a good rough surface for the new glass to bite into. Also repaired a side guard with a split in same fashion. Will see how long this lasts.
Foot pegs.
These are OEM modified units with a wider top by GMC.
Expansion Chamber.
GMC had to do some work on this and return area around spark plug is a bit damaged and shape altered but...... its a work of art until after first ride. I cleaned this again using old floor sanding belt material and then cleaned up with wet and dry and then really hot water and morning fresh and a scourer and then washed in really hot water. Our 30 degree days help. Tip for painting. I used VHT engine enamel in satin black and left pipe in sun for 4 hrs to get really dry and warm, first coat is applied, then I drop aerosol can in really hot water for about two minutes between coats, then shake can again and reapply 2nd coat, and continue process until can is finished. Result is brilliant, the increased pressure gives a better finish.
Ohlins Shocks.
I had these rebuilt by Mick Hughes in Bendigo, and new springs from Andy HVA. Although the refurbishment and cleaning of the ball joints took me by surprise. I reckon I spent easy 3 hours wire brushing, wet and dry removal of rust marks and cleaning with petrol all the swivel joints and retaining collars and bolts. Also some new HVA bits on shock as well.

Spring rates for shocks
The progressive rear springs I bought were from HVA and 160 pounds so around $300 landed here in OZ. These are the heavier of the two springs available from HVA. They are referred to as Promax 46-30-65-320 12/15. This is printed on the springs. So my understanding and from measurements of the spring 46mm is the internal diameter. 320mm is the length. The 30kg/mm is the softer spring rate and the 65kg/mm is the heavier spring rate. Not sure of the 12/15 either date of manufacture or for 12 -15 stone ???

The softer spring that HVA have is also a Promax with numbers of 46-25-55-320. So this is the same spring ID and length but with a lighter starting spring of 25 kg/mm and a heavier rate spring of 55kg/mm. These are also around $300 landed. These seem to be a popular choice.

I happened across YSS which is a suspension shop in Adelaide, Australia. They have a couple of listings on their website for rear springs and on their website see under Husqvarna. See also “All springs” where progressive are listed in 46mm ID and 320 long. Walter (owner and european) confirmed that these are the springs. They also have a lot of dual rate linear listings as well.


Overall Length
Inside Diameter
SPRINGRATE 1
SPRING RATE 2
COLOR
320
46
30
50
BLACK MW: This would appear to be the nearest to the HVA softer spring
320
46
20
30
BLACK
320
46
20
40
BLACK MW: probably OEM replacement



These are considerably cheaper as listed as AUD$191.20 plus postage. (I expect for a pair).

 

[dartyppyt]

Bike is coming along nicely and gonna be sharp when it's done!

Great job!

 

[suprize]

nice work...how good would that be to ride with dx 250 motor in it..i thought about swapping my l/c 240 motor out for a dx in 86 when the waterpump poohed itself but too much fabrication to swap drive sides. good tip re YSS, im looking for a springs upgrade