• 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

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    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

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250-500cc Rear shock spring

jmp2001

Husqvarna
B Class
On a 2013 wr250, does anyone have a suggestion on what kind of replacement spring i should get for the rear shock? i weigh about 165 and the stock one is too stiff for me. Thanks.
 
I usually use the Race Tech recommendations. Their setup tends to be on the stiffer side, but it works pretty well I think.

Here's what their site said:

Riding Type: Desert / Enduro / Trail
Age: Standard Age - Up to 44
Skill Level: Dirt Local Intermediate / B Class
Height: Standard Height
Gas Tank: Standard Gas Tank

REAR SHOCK SPRINGS​
Recommended Shock Spring Rate: 5.565 kg/mm (use closest available)​

Now, I was thinking the stock was a 5.6 or something like that, so might be worth just going down one rate.

What are your sag values on the stock setup?
 
On a 2013 wr250, does anyone have a suggestion on what kind of replacement spring i should get for the rear shock? i weigh about 165 and the stock one is too stiff for me. Thanks.

Are you sure it's too stiff, why do you think it is? Sometimes a soft spring feels stiff because the shock rides lower in the stroke where the damping is stiffer. A stiffer spring can sometimes soften the suspension.

I just replaced the stock spring on my 2012 CR125 with a 5.5 kg/mm Titanium KYB spring. I weigh 160, my sag is at 105/33. The KYB Ti springs are a little larger in outside diameter, so you have to make sure it clears the airbox and swingarm (which mine does) - it slightly rubs the airbox but nothing to be concerned with.

The KYB Ti spring is a little longer than the stock Sach's shock spring, so you'll have to get a spring compressor - or get creative (read below), in order to get the lower spring seat installed on the shock.

I mounted the shock in the top mount, and let the lower part of the shock dangling under the swingarm. Then I put the spring in place from under the swingarm and held against the top of the shock with zip ties. Then I used a long wrench which I wedged between the frame (under the transmission) and above the swingarm (to the left of the rear brake resevoir), so that the wrench went between the coils of the spring, and used the swingarm as a long lever-arm to compress the spring so you can install the lower spring seat. Put blocks under the rear tire so it'll hold the compressed spring while you install the lower spring seat.

It's a safe method, just make sure you aren't damaging anything, if it becomes difficult to compress the spring, it's probably because something is wrong - stop and start over again.
 
I weigh 170 and the stock shock spring on my wr is about perfect. I had to go to .44 on the front, but the rear is great.

If you really need a spring, race tech or your local suspension tuner will have what you need.
 
What are your sag #s? That's the only way to tell IMO...... Plus if rear is too stiff then the front is WAY to stiff..
 
I didnt check the sag numbers after I adjusted it. I was just like screw it, the bike is too tall, so I lowered it by decreasing the tension on the rear spring(theres only about a 1/4 inch of thread left at the top of the shock now).
 
I didnt check the sag numbers after I adjusted it. I was just like screw it, the bike is too tall, so I lowered it by decreasing the tension on the rear spring(theres only about a 1/4 inch of thread left at the top of the shock now).


There's the answer. If you are decreasing the seat height by increasing sag, you have already blown through the beginning of the shock travel. What's left is pretty firm. The bike should sag about an inch or so unloaded, and about four inches with you on it if the spring is right.
 
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