• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

rear brake grabby

McKay

McKay

Husqvarna
AA Class
I'm on a 15 fe350 and the back brakes lock up way to easy for me. I gave it 300 miles to see if I just needed to get used to it, but it's the same still. Others on the new 250 say the same thing. Looking for suggestions on new pads that may help.
 
you could lenghten the leaver of change to a bigger master cylinder for less leverage . not sure i would pay money for crapper brake pads .
how about just un bleed the brake a bit . eg get some air in the caliper so it has a lil bit more "mush" for you
 
Air is not good, won't always be the same. My pedal is set where I like it, i don't want crappy pads just some that don't grab as fast.
 
Not sure of how or where you ride, but I think this is also a skill that separates riders ... Watching the MX PRO riders alot, both in slow-MO and pics, I finally saw a rider using just the toe of his boot to press the lever down ...This works for me when I can remember on the fly to just use my toe ...Its almost like feathering the clutch; it takes practice and a skill you learn.

Most of my riding is on trails (or at least that is all I'm concerned with currently), the rear brake is just locked to slide the rear tire or I drag it slightly over rough terrain to set the suspension and keep the rear end settled down.

I'm Ok with air or whatever gets in mine ... Might be some pad work you might can do or some other trick someone out here knows about... For me, its a seat time issue.
 
Try to adjust your pedal to get what you want. Ray ray makes good sense though. Them boots makes for practice. Ride it you will get it. Nice bike!
 
bulto said:
Try to adjust your pedal to get what you want. Ray ray makes good sense though. Them boots makes for practice. Ride it you will get it. Nice bike!
Click to expand...


Thanks, my pedal is right where I want it. I'll try some of the others recommended by cosmo. Seems I'm not the only one.
 
Carbon is great for that as they need much more heat to get grabby. Only other thing would be the placement of the lever tip. The height may be right but the shape/size of the tip may be something to consider.
 
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