I read your post about leak jets, APs,o-rings and it was real informative, but I got a problem, I have a TC510, 06, that likes to stall during on-off-on throttle, I think it is happening about when the AP kicks in so apparently I have to change it to richer or leaner, do you think you could give me an idea which way to go first? Right now I have the standard JD settings, AP-stock setting, LJ-70,Red needle, 5th clip, 45 pj, 185 m, thinner o-ring. Thanks!
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Hi everyone,
As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.
When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.
Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.
Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.
Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.
Thanks for your patience and support!
Question fo Mr Coffee or anyone
- Thread starter OM48
- Start date
These things are a little hard to diagnose over the internet compared to being there in person, but....
You should set the bike vertical in neutral with it running and turn the idle way down, then adjust the fuel screw until you get max rpms. As the rpms rise keep turning down the idle speed.
My guess would be turning in the fuel screw 1/2 turn from where you now have it, and also removing the o-ring, would help you tremendously.
I am assuming a few things:
I am also assuming that your AP screw is set to something approximating this. No need to measure it, just look at the number of threads showing on the screw:
You should set the bike vertical in neutral with it running and turn the idle way down, then adjust the fuel screw until you get max rpms. As the rpms rise keep turning down the idle speed.
My guess would be turning in the fuel screw 1/2 turn from where you now have it, and also removing the o-ring, would help you tremendously.
I am assuming a few things:
- the on/off throttle is in the 1/4 to 1/2 throttle range
- air filter is clean
- the stalling is when you are closing the throttle rapidly as opposed to opening.
- and the problem is probably worse on warm days, or if applicable, at higher elevations
I am also assuming that your AP screw is set to something approximating this. No need to measure it, just look at the number of threads showing on the screw:
I tried what you said and it didn't help. Another question for you: I took the O-ring off but the black arm (the one toward rear of bike) still moves along with the throttle arm. There is no hesitation. I can manually hold it back, but otherwise it's as if it's wired together. I've had this bike over a year now and I sure would like to get it sorted out. Thnx
Had to go down to a 35 pilot so the high rpm wouldn't be at closed fuel screw.Now it's close to 1.5 turns. Played with the ap arm while running now there is a lag between the arms sometime. At first they both move together for a short period then seperate, then the other arm catches up. Is that how its supposed to be?
What you typed makes no sense to me. A 35 pilot is way too small for max rpms with the fuel screw 1.5 turns out. Something is not right.
Separate topic:
Here is a vid about a 35 LEAK jet verses a 70 LEAK jet showing the black arm being the item that actually determines the squirt. It is spring loaded, the other metal arm simply moves out of the way so the squirt can happen:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LD7EvRgMQm4
As an added bonus
here is a video showing the AP screw being adjusted, while keeping the 70 LEAK jet, it shows the black arm doing the squirting quite clearly:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ool_jiy4kxQ
And the one you should really watch, how to re-jet a carb. It shows quite clearly how the fuel screw goes together with the spring/washer/oring. My guess is you may have lost the oring or washer.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=olbkQIeddrM
Separate topic:
Here is a vid about a 35 LEAK jet verses a 70 LEAK jet showing the black arm being the item that actually determines the squirt. It is spring loaded, the other metal arm simply moves out of the way so the squirt can happen:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LD7EvRgMQm4
As an added bonus
here is a video showing the AP screw being adjusted, while keeping the 70 LEAK jet, it shows the black arm doing the squirting quite clearly:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ool_jiy4kxQ
And the one you should really watch, how to re-jet a carb. It shows quite clearly how the fuel screw goes together with the spring/washer/oring. My guess is you may have lost the oring or washer.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=olbkQIeddrM
It took a while but I got it pretty close. m-185, pilot-35, needle- red 5th from top. AP- 2.75 mm and WIRED. ALJ 5/8 turn out. I've tried pilots from 45 down to 35 and back up to 45 and down again to 35. Tried it with no o-ring and went up to thin o-ring, better (thats where I originally had it.) Thick o-ring ,getting better, Wired it and almost there, Slight hesitation. Went out and got a Merge ALJ (sorry Rod a local shop had one in stock), adjusted it to 3/4 out just like the guy from Merge Racing told me, still slightly off, closed it 1/8 turn and it is SWEET. This past Saturday I found a slight exhaust leak at the header, put the stock pipe back on and now I have a bike that runs like I always thought a TC510 should. I have a NCYR needle coming that the fine people at MERGE recommended. I will post the results. I'd like to put out a big THANKS to Rod at Beaver Cr. Husky, the guys at Schulz Husky, and Merge Racing,
J.R.
Husqvarna
AA Class
So am I right to assume that AP screw dimension of 2.75mm is for 250,450, and 510? Cuz that was a 37mm 250 carb in the videos...
I have a JD jet kit in the mail and a Boyesen adjustable leak jet to put on my bike soon. I'd also like to learn more about the accelerator pump and what not so I can get the bike jetted perfectly when I take it use the Dyno. I dont want to try and figure out how the AP works while im on the $$$ clock. Luckily I got some instructions from Boyesen so I should be able to get that figured out..
Also, what can I do for the joints in the exhuast so they dont leak? I have the Full Ti system if that makes any difference and there are like 5 joints in it! Im pretty sure thats why my bike ALWAYS pops even when I mess with jetting...
I have a JD jet kit in the mail and a Boyesen adjustable leak jet to put on my bike soon. I'd also like to learn more about the accelerator pump and what not so I can get the bike jetted perfectly when I take it use the Dyno. I dont want to try and figure out how the AP works while im on the $$$ clock. Luckily I got some instructions from Boyesen so I should be able to get that figured out..
Also, what can I do for the joints in the exhuast so they dont leak? I have the Full Ti system if that makes any difference and there are like 5 joints in it! Im pretty sure thats why my bike ALWAYS pops even when I mess with jetting...