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Hi everyone,
As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.
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Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.
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Thanks for your patience and support!
All 2st pwk slide????
- Thread starter Idacurt
- Start date
raisrx251
Husqvarna
AA Class
The numbers on the slide effect the amount of air that comes in. A 7.0 slide would have a larger air cut away than a 6.0 so a 7.0 would be more lean. I have been told that if you are maxed out on the needle clip position is when you would either change to a different needle (much cheaper to do) or a leaner/richer slide.
Idacurt
Husqvarna
AA Class
I have been going nuts trying to get my throttle crisp if I snap it off idle.My pilot jet I believe is just about perfect (1 1/4 turns on a/s) and the bike pulls great into the main But if I'm chuggin on a single track and say need a quick snap off idle I get a bog.
This maybe normal characteristics for a 2t? this is my first so I'm learning.
The slide I have now is a 7,the needle is one down from leanest position.I will check what needle is in it and report back as this maybe the problem.
Thanks for the help.
This maybe normal characteristics for a 2t? this is my first so I'm learning.
The slide I have now is a 7,the needle is one down from leanest position.I will check what needle is in it and report back as this maybe the problem.
Thanks for the help.
What bike / year?
Idacurt
Husqvarna
AA Class
I gave no stats,what a newb****************************************
07 WR125
38pwk
42 pilot 1 1/4 a/s
165 main
ddj second from leanest
50:1 interceptor mix
6K-8K elevation
I also have a JD red , blue & cek needle in my arsenal.
I have been chasing my tail trying to get rid of spooge(5hrs of single track leaves a line of oil about 1/2 way down my pipe) and a crisp throttle.
I'm starting to think my riding style may contribute to my spooge as I mainly stay in 1st-2nd on the tight single tracks in the mountains.
I have been denied some obstacles that require me to coast downhill and then hit a steep switch back.Seems like the plug loads up and just kills the motor when I need to snap the throttle.
Again thanks for the help
07 WR125
38pwk
42 pilot 1 1/4 a/s
165 main
ddj second from leanest
50:1 interceptor mix
6K-8K elevation
I also have a JD red , blue & cek needle in my arsenal.
I have been chasing my tail trying to get rid of spooge(5hrs of single track leaves a line of oil about 1/2 way down my pipe) and a crisp throttle.
I'm starting to think my riding style may contribute to my spooge as I mainly stay in 1st-2nd on the tight single tracks in the mountains.
I have been denied some obstacles that require me to coast downhill and then hit a steep switch back.Seems like the plug loads up and just kills the motor when I need to snap the throttle.
Again thanks for the help
That seems a bit lean but it could just be rich at one place in the throttle and causing all the spooge.
The pilot sounds right and mine really isn’t picky on the pilot anyway, at least with a 36mm. Can you get max rpms while idling somewhere between 1 and 2.5 turns out on the air screw? If so I would say it is good enough. Your loading up on downhills could be a rich pilot but I am suspicious of the float height. I run mine so I can lean the bike about 45 degrees before it starts peeing out.
Assuming the float is right here are some things you could try. I’m using the JD spreadsheet here which does not include the JD needles unfortunately. Changing to the cek #4 would lean it out a little below 1/8 and richen it up from 1/8 to 3/8. If it is loading up on the bottom then getting a lean bog when you whack the throttle open this change may help both problems. You could also try the ddj in #3. It will not change anything under 1/8 but will richen it up from 1/8 to ½ a good bit and a little from ½ up. At least if you try this and it gets worse you know the problem is being too rich not too lean.
I have found that if the bike is a little rich it actually has good pull. It is just more work to get it on the pipe. If it is even a touch lean it really kills the torque. Mine will run with zero spooge in tight woods if perfect but it is hard to get it there. If I am going to be off one way it runs better a tad rich and it is definitely safer.
The pilot sounds right and mine really isn’t picky on the pilot anyway, at least with a 36mm. Can you get max rpms while idling somewhere between 1 and 2.5 turns out on the air screw? If so I would say it is good enough. Your loading up on downhills could be a rich pilot but I am suspicious of the float height. I run mine so I can lean the bike about 45 degrees before it starts peeing out.
Assuming the float is right here are some things you could try. I’m using the JD spreadsheet here which does not include the JD needles unfortunately. Changing to the cek #4 would lean it out a little below 1/8 and richen it up from 1/8 to 3/8. If it is loading up on the bottom then getting a lean bog when you whack the throttle open this change may help both problems. You could also try the ddj in #3. It will not change anything under 1/8 but will richen it up from 1/8 to ½ a good bit and a little from ½ up. At least if you try this and it gets worse you know the problem is being too rich not too lean.
I have found that if the bike is a little rich it actually has good pull. It is just more work to get it on the pipe. If it is even a touch lean it really kills the torque. Mine will run with zero spooge in tight woods if perfect but it is hard to get it there. If I am going to be off one way it runs better a tad rich and it is definitely safer.
I'm running the TMX but it does best with a 32.5 Pilot. 09 WR125 500-3000 feet.
Idacurt
Husqvarna
AA Class
It did run the best ever on a cool(50)rainy day with almost zero spooge.
Does that weather make it run leaner/richer?
Also at about 1/2-2/3 throttle I hear almost a ping/howl sound from my expansion chamber.this was not so noticeable with a bigger main(168) and it also pulled harder with the bigger main but due to spooge I went back down in size(165).
Is the float suppose to be 16mm?? I will check this.
Does that weather make it run leaner/richer?
Also at about 1/2-2/3 throttle I hear almost a ping/howl sound from my expansion chamber.this was not so noticeable with a bigger main(168) and it also pulled harder with the bigger main but due to spooge I went back down in size(165).
Is the float suppose to be 16mm?? I will check this.
Cool air is denser so it will make it leaner the cooler is it.
higher elevation the air gets thinner and makes it richer.
This is for a RM125 but gives you the idea...
higher elevation the air gets thinner and makes it richer.
This is for a RM125 but gives you the idea...
krieg;37828 said:
i was surprised how going form a 35 to a 32.5 made such a noticeable difference.
The TMX seems much more sensitive to the pilot. On the Keihin it doesn’t do much of anything above 1/8 throttle and a 125 can’t be ridden down there anyway. Mine is not real picky on the main either. I suspect that is why fast guys that keep it pinned (such as Ajaxauto) don’t think this bike is picky to jet. The 38 could be different but if it is like my 36 the most important things to get right are the slide and needle. I would bump the main up as far as you can without loosing overrev. Unless you are pinned all day I doubt your spooge is coming from the main. Usually is it pilot (and you don’t sound rich) or needle.
You want to achieve max rpm while idling between 1 to 2.5 turns out on the air screw. If it takes more drop the pilot. If it makes no difference go bigger. While you have the carb apart make sure it is not plugged. I always get stuff in mine. On 250s I used to play with the pilot and air screw a lot but on the 125 as long as it is close and the bike starts easily I don’t worry about it since there is not much right off idle regardless.
The recommended float height makes the plastic float basically parallel with the top of the carb body. I always run it lower in the woods to keep from wasting fuel on steep terrain. I am not sure what my height is but I get a 45 degree lean angle before it dumps fuel. I would suggest dropping it a couple mm lower then the recommended height. Also check that it spills fuel about the same lean angle both ways. On mine there is not a notch in the boot to tell you where strait up is when putting the carb on. I used to always have it leaned to the left too far.
I would not jet by spooge. It is far more important to go for what runs good. Also you could be rich in one circuit and lean in another and still get a bunch of spooge. If you know what setting worked good in what weather at what throttle positions I can map it with the JD spreadsheet and look for something that will work.
If it worked good in the cold then it wants to be leaner in the warm weather. I play with needles a lot but fortunately with this bike and a PWK a needle swap is a 3 minute job.
I could never get the JD needles to work when I had a 5.5 slide but now that I cut it to 6.5 they seem OK. You might want to start with Blue #3 or Red #4. Give it some quick whacks of the throttle to make sure it is not lean and just ride and feel. I can’t always detect too lean from too rich so I just go both ways and see what happens sometimes.
You want to achieve max rpm while idling between 1 to 2.5 turns out on the air screw. If it takes more drop the pilot. If it makes no difference go bigger. While you have the carb apart make sure it is not plugged. I always get stuff in mine. On 250s I used to play with the pilot and air screw a lot but on the 125 as long as it is close and the bike starts easily I don’t worry about it since there is not much right off idle regardless.
The recommended float height makes the plastic float basically parallel with the top of the carb body. I always run it lower in the woods to keep from wasting fuel on steep terrain. I am not sure what my height is but I get a 45 degree lean angle before it dumps fuel. I would suggest dropping it a couple mm lower then the recommended height. Also check that it spills fuel about the same lean angle both ways. On mine there is not a notch in the boot to tell you where strait up is when putting the carb on. I used to always have it leaned to the left too far.
I would not jet by spooge. It is far more important to go for what runs good. Also you could be rich in one circuit and lean in another and still get a bunch of spooge. If you know what setting worked good in what weather at what throttle positions I can map it with the JD spreadsheet and look for something that will work.
If it worked good in the cold then it wants to be leaner in the warm weather. I play with needles a lot but fortunately with this bike and a PWK a needle swap is a 3 minute job.
I could never get the JD needles to work when I had a 5.5 slide but now that I cut it to 6.5 they seem OK. You might want to start with Blue #3 or Red #4. Give it some quick whacks of the throttle to make sure it is not lean and just ride and feel. I can’t always detect too lean from too rich so I just go both ways and see what happens sometimes.
NWRider;37842 said:
Biting tongue not to make a joke here...
