125-200cc Pv issue

[creamsodauk]

Can anyone with a sms/wre cr etc 125 explain how the pv is controlled?

When I purchased my sms 125 the pv worked on and off, generally Id have to unplug it and reconnect it and it would work again better.

I have unplugged it since and pinned my cables open but the bike can be a pain to ride minus bottom end 8-)

When it was connected the pv doesn't make any self cleaning sounds on initial ignition. Where does the bike take the rpms from to know when to open?

And is there a way to test my pv motor to check it works as it's incredibly clean looking 8-( seems odd its failed as it looks fairly new

 

[gazmcfaza]

you mean you've checked the little electric motor that turns the cables? the issue is probably the powervalves themselves, they''re down at the front of the cylinder, covered by four little bolts, I reckon yours is so gummed up with stroke oil/ splloge that it hasn't got the power to physically turn them, a bit like putting your foot in setting concrete. Only solution ][which I need to do too] is drain your coolant, take off the head if needed, take off the cylinder off the piston, then remove the four little bolts on the front of the cylinder, clean in there, maybe brake cleaner would do it, I sprayed mine with multi spray from asda, then put it back on and the free movement should allow the motor to self clean and then open as it should and close at certain revs

 

[gazmcfaza]

 

[gazmcfaza]

this is how your cylinder should look, though this is looking backewards at it, see that little silver arm on the left hand side? That's the bit that attaches to the pv cables and runs up to the powervalve motor, that arm turns those valves you can see inside the cylinder. The bit I mentioned with the four little bolts, that is the part that covers these valves over with a silver plate, like a rectangle shape, to stop dirt getting into them

 

[juicypips]

No way you can gain access with cylinder still on the bike gaz?

 

[gazmcfaza]

Only possibe way is the left hand side as you sit on bike, there are two little rubber hoses coming off the powervalve, where sploogey oil leaks onto my driveway :{ I normally take the hoses off, spray a load of mutilspray into them so it comes out the bottom one and spray goes in the top, seems to help loosen them, probably not ideal for long term as it probably ends up filling the exhaust bend. Or maybe itj ust burns off with the heat. But try it! The stupid thing [silly husqvarna design] the front part of the frame,m it comes soooo close to the four little cover bolts that it's impossible to get a socket onto them, let alone a ratchet or spanner, there is no other way to get at them without the cylinder off, unless you lifted the cylinder up an inch off the gasjket then turned it 90 degrees so the piston and ring still sat inside it, but I think that could damage the lining

 

[creamsodauk]

the motor has ben disconnected from the pv cables so it should be free too move, it still doesn't perofm the self clean on start up

the cables themselves are free to open and close manually so for now i have simply pulled them open and used a bit of old fuel tube to hold it open (the bike s used for nothing but on road fun on weekends so its not being used through traffic etc)

when i purchased the bike the drive home was 3 hours and the pv opened and closed on the journey home randomly sometimes staying closed in high revs and sometimes opening. after tinkering at home again i had the same results sometimes it would work other times it would stay shut the whole time. it has never made the self clean sound on start up, but when i fiddled with it idling and revved the engine you could sometimes feel the motor pulling the cables open and then it would stop working again

 

[gazmcfaza]

mine never used to do self clean on start up for a year, I changed one of the three fuses by the battery and it did it straight away, perhaps it could be that, though your fuse box may be in a different place as it's newer

 

[gazmcfaza]

 

[gazmcfaza]

I think it was a ten or 15 amp fuse, one of the ones in the top left corner

 

[gazmcfaza]

managed to get into the powervalve area last night, cylinder etc still left on, I took the panels off and the coolant hose on the right hand radiator, then got a spanner onto the bolts at the front of the cylinder holding the powervalve cover on [rectangle shape], sprayed in there as much as i could with a nozzle, seemed to loosen the pv up a lot, cant get the last bolt out with cylinder still on as it hits the frame but now self clean is pretty clear

 

[creamsodauk]

When I got my husky the previouse owner had put thick copper cable in the fuse holders

Of course I quickly pulled these out and replaced the fuses with 2x3amp and a 15amp which is what the manual specified (it didn't show which order they should be in so I guesed but none have blown since?)

I suppose I could fit 15 amps throughout and plug the motor in again to check if it moves on ignition,

If not there's a place on eBay in Poland that sell the full pv system for 75 quid which is my next move

Is there a power vavle controller or is it built into the cdi on the 2007 model?

Thanks for the pics btw I may give mine a clean when I get some free time, does the husky have a coolant bleed nipped on the head or is it done via the rad cap?

 

[gots_a_sol]

Remove subframe/airbox, remove the upper engine mount brackets, remove the 2 lower mounting bolts, then loosen the swingarm pivot bolt. This will allow you to pivot the engine up enough to get the power valve cover off. Just lift it up and stick a block of wood or something between it and the frame to keep it propped up.

 

[mbb]

Hi mate,

Have you try to service the servo. Simply pull out the servo motor cover that hold by 3 small screws. Make sure you mark the orientation of the cover before pulling it out. Use 1000 grid sandpaper and clean the copper terminal on the stator that contact with the carbon brush until you remove all burn mark on it. Take care that you did not accidently touch and brake the winding wires. Than put everything back together.

If the servo still refuse to work, your pv controller might be fault.
You can use pv servo from cagiva mito (plug & play) accept that mito did not have the rubber cover on it. You can't use PV controller from mito as they are designed to open at higher RPM i.e. around 8000.
If you are looking for after market controller that combine PV controller and ignition unit, you can look for Zeeltronic. With that you can programe the PV opening (at what RPM that you want it to open) and also your custom ignition timing.

Hope that help.

 

[creamsodauk]

Thanks for the advice bud!

A little update

I did as above and cleaned the motor out/ it's very clean and looks almost new! I then got out a multi meter and tried it across the pv red and black wires when I turn the key and nothing happens! Gave the connectors a clean and still nothing

So I then kicked over the engine 2/3 times and the pv fired up and dos the self clean

I then took the bike out for a spin with the pv motor unplugged still and on the ride my 3amp fuse blew, so I replaced it and again after a few mins riding it blew again

I then threw in a 15amp as I was worried the oil pump would also not work if the lights and screen had conked out? Not sure if that's the case

Anyway I got it home fuse still intact but I noticed the screen was dimming and only came back on when I was at high revs

Would this suggest my rectifier is dead?

When I purchased the bike the bike had no key and the ignition was left on, the battery was dead so I replaced this but I wonder if the rectifier has been fried trying to power the bike with little to no battery


Any ideas?

 

[duggoey]

Thanks for the advice bud!

A little update

I did as above and cleaned the motor out/ it's very clean and looks almost new! I then got out a multi meter and tried it across the pv red and black wires when I turn the key and nothing happens! Gave the connectors a clean and still nothing

So I then kicked over the engine 2/3 times and the pv fired up and dos the self clean

I then took the bike out for a spin with the pv motor unplugged still and on the ride my 3amp fuse blew, so I replaced it and again after a few mins riding it blew again

I then threw in a 15amp as I was worried the oil pump would also not work if the lights and screen had conked out? Not sure if that's the case

Anyway I got it home fuse still intact but I noticed the screen was dimming and only came back on when I was at high revs

Would this suggest my rectifier is dead?

When I purchased the bike the bike had no key and the ignition was left on, the battery was dead so I replaced this but I wonder if the rectifier has been fried trying to power the bike with little to no battery


Any ideas?

I dont know if this is your problem but some batteries, especially old ones can never recover after being dead flat for a long time, even if you charge it or ride it. You might not be generating enough current to be moving the PV properly. Especially when it needs to react quicky in response to throttle and rev changes. Might need to measure amps and volts when the bike is running and test it under different revs.

 

[mbb]

This is typical problem when battery is weak. Get a fresh new/ recharged battery to confirm if your PV system is ok. If the PV did the self cleaning cycles when you turn the ignition on, your PV system is in good condition.
You may need to search at Google on how to check your regulator rectifier (RR). Basically your battery voltage should read at range of 12.7 (min) to 14.4 (max) at any of the rpm.
If your battery still dead even after you turn the ignition off, than you may have leakage current somewhere. This is a bit tricky to troubleshoot.

My advice do not run the bike with dead battery. This could lead permanent damage to the PV controller. If you still want to ride, disconnect the power cable to the PV controller.
Hope you find the fault.

 

[creamsodauk]

Things have taken another turn!

I fired her up today (o don't use it much)

Now last time I ised it the screen kept dimming and blew a fuse

Well I left the battery on charge assuming it was a dead battery caused by it not charging. Well battery all charged and the screen and lights work fine, until I ride it

At which point as the revs build up the screen dims

What's going on! Would a faulty regulator cause the issues shown? I haven't had a chance to throw a multimeter on her when she's running to see what's happening with voltages

I'm assuming with a dead reg I would see voltage stay still and with a faukty one I might see voltage spike quiet high? I'm really not great with electrics

Any help?

 

[gazmcfaza]

if the pv from the mito fits is it an all years fitment or only one variant of mito that fits the husky?

 

[mbb]

Regulator and rectifier is to convert AC current to DC to be used to charge your battery. Over voltage will kill your battery and under voltage will not charge.
If you have full charged battery and within a minutes it flat out than I would probably say something wrong with the battery or some load (high amp) is using the battery abnormally.

I would suggest that you eliminate your problem by disconnecting possible load of the battery starting from headlamp, blinker, horn etc. and observe if the same thing happen. I am afraid there is shortage/ leakage somewhere on the wiring.
You have to measure the charging voltage that goes to the battery to eliminate RR faulty. If you have previously over voltage from the RR, this may kill the battery permanently. You have to be sure you have a good working battery to start with.

Any PV Servo from mito will fit to husky as it has the same fitting and connection. The PV controller not.