• 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

250-500cc "proper clutch cable"

I laid the original cable next to the new cable and the new cable is about 1/4" shorter. I have about 1/4" of adjustment at the adjuster, but would need to screw it in all the way to make it work. I would assume this will work as the new cable will probably stretch some over time allowing for some adjustment.

The end that goes in to the provision on the engine case could be filed down so that's not really a big issue as long as the cable length stretches some.
IMG_1327.JPG IMG_1328.JPG IMG_1329.JPG
 
I would relieve the diameter of the larger than stock ring on the cable housings end fitting to allow it to properly seat into the cables housing mount lug in the cases. Doing that shouldn't be a big deal but you don't want it to start gouging into the case or start putting a side load on it either.
 
I have a 94 WXC360 and got a Motion Pro Terminator 10-0017 (with the metal elbow) and its about 1.5 " too long. :mad: The lever APPEARS to be stock. Maybe I should try a 10-0154 as other suggested? Also just installed new clutch fiber plates with the cable. Any info/experience or suggestions would be appreciated
 
JesPres said:
I have a 94 WXC360 and got a Motion Pro Terminator 10-0017 (with the metal elbow) and its about 1.5 " too long. :mad: The lever APPEARS to be stock. Maybe I should try a 10-0154 as other suggested? Also just installed new clutch fiber plates with the cable. Any info/experience or suggestions would be appreciated
Click to expand...


I had to add a spacer inline when I used the 10-0017 on my '94 360 with the stock perch. Upon swapping to a MSR lever/perch, I ended up still needing the spacer. I'm curious to hear if a different cable fits better.
 
adjust the clutch internally to get it close then finish with the adjuster on the lever to get it perfect
the angle on the inside won't change enough to make a difference
did this on my 360 and it works just fine
 
New STOCK clutch plates are installed. I have no experience or information about "adjusting the clutch internally" could you please elaborate? I fabricated an "inline spacer" to take up slop right at the perch cable entry point (bout 1" of cable play between mounting points) and rode it all day on the trails no prob...I just know it wont last long with the slop/play in the perch to cable joint. Was the inline spacer you used a Pro Motion Product made specificcaly for this purpose or did you custom make one as well? Thanks for any info!
 
Just had my clutch cable snap on my last ride. Good thing this 300 can pull from an idle!
Tried to get this Terminator cable and its out of stock till next month!
I'm going to wind up paying more for the stock replacement...this sucks
BTW last ride was real tight slow single track and i was running a 14t countersprocket, i thought i was destroying the clutch because i had to keep adjusting it as we were going, turns out it was the cable letting go.
So if your riding and the adjustment keeps going out start heading back before it goes :(
 
Flyin said:
Just had my clutch cable snap on my last ride. Good thing this 300 can pull from an idle!
Tried to get this Terminator cable and its out of stock till next month!
I'm going to wind up paying more for the stock replacement...this sucks
BTW last ride was real tight slow single track and i was running a 14t countersprocket, i thought i was destroying the clutch because i had to keep adjusting it as we were going, turns out it was the cable letting go.
So if your riding and the adjustment keeps going out start heading back before it goes :(
Click to expand...


ask a dealer near you if they carry the Terminator, mine does
 
Ordered the Moose replacement, was half the price of OE.
Hopefully it's no worse than stock
 
My stock clutch cable worked fine and when I put the motion pro cable on I couldn't tell the difference. Adjusting the travel at the center of the clutch basket so the the lever on the engine case was 90 degrees as the clutch plates disengaged made a big difference and cost nothing. I recommend you make the adjustment no matter what cable you are using.
 
lankydoug said:
My stock clutch cable worked fine and when I put the motion pro cable on I couldn't tell the difference. Adjusting the travel at the center of the clutch basket so the the lever on the engine case was 90 degrees as the clutch plates disengaged made a big difference and cost nothing. I recommend you make the adjustment no matter what cable you are using.
Click to expand...

Will do!
 
JesPres said:
New STOCK clutch plates are installed. I have no experience or information about "adjusting the clutch internally" could you please elaborate? I fabricated an "inline spacer" to take up slop right at the perch cable entry point (bout 1" of cable play between mounting points) and rode it all day on the trails no prob...I just know it wont last long with the slop/play in the perch to cable joint. Was the inline spacer you used a Pro Motion Product made specificcaly for this purpose or did you custom make one as well? Thanks for any info!
Click to expand...

Sorry I'm late responding. I made the the spacer myself. It is a light press fit into the adjuster barrel on the MSR perch, and I've put about 200 trail miles on this year without problem. Before making the spacer, I adjusted as much as possible internally, but it just wasn't going to get there that way. FWIW, stock cable did not need the spacer.
 
I made this aluminum extension cap a few years ago for my WR250 clutch. Fits over top of the original steel pivot lever.
It extends the pulling point about .50" I think. Made a big difference on the pulling effort required. One finger clutching is way easier with this cap.
There is one screw and nut thru the original location for the clutch cable and I added another further back and tapped the original lever.
It seems to have made my cable last longer, but maybe I'm just dreaming.

WR250 brake extension.jpg
 
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