• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Problems starting SMR449

BR1

BR1

Husqvarna
A Class
There are no problems starting the motorbike when the engine is cold.
If I try to start the engine when it is hot, the battery seems to be dead, the speedometer sometimes restarts showing the error FAIL and the bike doesn't start.
This morning I fired up the bike by pushing it and I tried restarting it when I arrived at home and it didn't give me any problem or error.
What is the problem? Anyone has found the same anomaly?
Can it be the battery, voltage regulator, control unit, etc.???
 
Do you use the kill switch or ignition key to stop the engine?

This is just my guess, it rarely happens to me unless I stall... If the engine stops in the wrong part of the compression stroke and when you try and start it the auto decompression doesn't seem to kick in and its much for the starter which then draws too much juice. This resets the speedo, fails to start the bike and sometimes brings up the FAIL message.

Annoyingly the only way to get it going is to switch the ignition off and back on then keep thumbing the starter to try and get the cylinder to turn over enough so it can start.
 
I usually use the key to stop the engine. So what I have to do? Do I have to stop the engine using the kill switch?
 
No manual decomp on these. I have the same problem on occasion. I've started killing it using the kill button, then I leave the ignition on until I hear the ECU shut down. Seems it likes that better. I've had it do the fail when cold first thing.
 
BR1 said:
I usually use the key to stop the engine. So what I have to do? Do I have to stop the engine using the kill switch?
Click to expand...

Huskynoobee said:
I've started killing it using the kill button, then I leave the ignition on until I hear the ECU shut down. Seems it likes that better. I've had it do the fail when cold first thing.
Click to expand...

Every bike I've had I've always used the kill switch so it's habit now. I don't have the issue unless I stall the bike, never from cold. It can't hurt using the kill switch for a few weeks to see how you go.
 
I run the power up plug in (the switch that control the map? I'm running the map 2)
 
I've heard of this before and recall it was a relay. #27 is the starter relay

starting_relay.jpg
 
Tinken said:
I've heard of this before and recall it was a relay. #27 is the starter relay
Click to expand...

I asked my parts guy what that relay cost, because I could not find one comparable at the auto store, his computer said $129, he knew that was wrong, said it should be about a $10 part.
 
I solved (it seems solved) the problem by moving the negative wire from the top of the engine and adding another cable to the negative side of the battery.
I didn't encounter the problem anymore:rolleyes:
I also reset the TPS
 
Awesome! A very inexpensive fix. I moved mine a while ago, can't afford to have that headache in the middle of no where. :D
 
Unfortunately the problem has returned... :(
I will post a video of the problem soon
 
The battery is ok, I checked it with a tester .
The problem occurs from time to time.
I have to start the bike by pushing; then the bike runs normally.
 
It mounts an aftermarket exhaust (Arrow).
Do I have to remove the lambda probe? I'm running the race map 2.
 
Not necessary, the probe is disabled when you put the race map plug in. You can remove it for cosmetic purposes if that floats your boat.
 
Take the seat off and make sure the ECU and race map plugs are connected properly, sometimes stupid things like wiggling the plugs helps *shrug*
 
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