• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Please help identify my bike

Marvel Mystery Oil works well and I think I used that with sporadic shots of PB Blaster. Took about 2 weeks of putting it in 3rd gear and popping the rear wheel in opposing directions to break the rust enough to allow the fluids to do their job. This I did on a 1982 750 Maxim which is an inline 4 cylinder. End result - Saved all 4 pistons, rings, and the cylinders cleaned nicely with a cylinder hone.

You can try the rear wheel or rotate the flywheel to see if the cylinder will lift up off the centercases. Even if the piston is not low enough to push out the wrist pin, if you get it up enough to put 25mm thick wood strips under the cylinder and on top of the base gasket, you can keep it soaked and gently try tapping piston further down the cylinder. Once you get it moving it may just push down through. If not just get it down enough to remove the wrist pin. Then you can put the cylinder and piston into a 5 gallon plastic pail and fill with kerosene to cover
 
Well I got the cylinder off. The good news is the piston and cylinder don't look all that bad. A hone and some proper cleaning of the piston will probably do.
The bad news is the crank is stuck too, even the piston's needle bearing is stuck. I removed the cylinder by pushing it up from below with a wedge shaped piece of wood. The piston and rod won't move and the crank doesn't rotate so I'm probably looking at replacing all bearings. I filled the crankcase with diesel to see if that helps anything at all. We'll see!
 
The bearing prices are pretty reasonable if you have access to a bearing house but you do not want to skimp on crankshaft related bearings. You need to match them class for class, I have saved a lot of money buying my bearings and seals this way. I do not mind spending money with a solid vintage supplier, but with the herd that I am supporting, the money I save fixes more.

I would remove the crank from the engine and separate the crank cheeks. I have a hydraulic press and some old starter flywheels that were already cut into press masks that I got at an auction fpr a retiring dealer that was a New England enduro champion the year I was born (1960). They slide between the crank cheeks and you always press the pin down into the center. Do not press the pin through the outside of the cheeks. You want to be very careful with the crank rod as it difficult to find a good used crank and replacement rods are expensive when you can find them.
 
I just got the piston pin out and the piston off. The needle bearing was very rusty but moved. I'm assuming the other bearings are going to look similar. Might be able to use them as is with a lot of flushing, but it's not worth the risk. The engine will have to come apart. There's a small leak somewhere in the bottom end anyway that needs fixing. Also the crank isn't centered in the case, it's way off to the clutch side. Almost looks like the cheek is touching the case there while there's about 2 mm of space on the other side.
The conrod did start moving after a while but I'm going to replace the lower bearing anyway to be on the safe side. I'll split the case myself and then take it all over to a guy who knows what he's doing so he can replace the bearings and bore the cylinder to a new piston.
 
Tack för erbjudandet men jag har redan hunnit köpa en kåpa på ebay :)

(thanks for the offer but I already bought a cover on ebay)
 
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