• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

piston play

Dave Mills

Dave Mills

Husqvarna
AA Class
I just pulled the reed cage off the 500xc this weekend and looked in at the piston. Piston looked good with the usual minor scuffing on the bottom. what concerned me though was that the piston had rotational play. When I grabbed the bridge between the ports on the piston and wiggled it, I noticed a lot of rotational play (as in clockwise or counterclockwise inside the barrel. I'm hoping that doesn't mean a bad lower rod bearing. I am waiting to get gaskets before I go any further
 
Not a lot I can really comment on.

I belive there was a time perhaps even now where that top needle bearing at the wristpin wasn't available quite as long the origional one.

The guy I bought my first Husky from and who had had a few over the years told me the 500 could wear out the lower end before the top end. I finally did wear out the lower rod bearing and it wasn't very long after I switched top ends because I had a fresher one.

I assume it is a water cooled version as you state gaskets, plural instead of base gasket. I don't have much problem getting gaskets in a timely manner and wouldn't let that stop me. Did you read the thread on here about how to get the cylinder off if stuck and avoiding getting crud in the crank cavity?

I suspect the last version of that 500 crank didn't hold up too well. Ther are lube holes in the prior ones and modern stuff seems to have a slit for lube cut out of the bottom of the big end of the rod. If you find that the crank doesn't have round holes to balance rather has sections trimmed making the thing sort of triangular with one side curved then you have that one.

Fran
 
That clearence should be .002 inch or less. The upper pin bearing clearence is .001 and the lower is the same. Play in both would add to .002 if starting from no clearence on one side to check total! I have lower pins and bearings for 500's.
 
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