• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Photos of new 250 motor with valve cover off...

krieg

krieg

Husqvarna
Pro Class
We need a procedure for checking/adjusting valves SOON. The new motor is Jap-like in a bad way. Obviously, the cams will have to come out for shims to be placed... no big deal I suppose. I can't find marks on cam gears sufficient to line things up for a clearance check. Maybe that's because I'm a dumba$$... but I didn't even bother to break out the feeler guages before I popped the cover back on... praying for a manual, or some instructions SOON.

leftsideoverhead2.jpg


leftsideoverhead.jpg


rghtside1.jpg


rghtside2.jpg
 
Rotate the motor until the lobes are pointed away from the valves and check them with a feeler. if in spec button it up. If not, turn the motor over till those indented marks on the cams line up to each other or are parallel when the piston is TDC. Pop the cams out noting the position, do not turn the motor over at all with the cams out and replace the shims as needed. Drop the cams back in the way they came out. :excuseme:
 
valves

I see a punch line on the left gear and a dot puched on the right gear. Take the spark plug out, put the bike in second gear. Turn the back tire and watch the exhaust valves as they are opening up (on exhaust stroke) As soon as the intake valves starts to move stop. That's "valve overlap". Mark the flywheel and a spot on the case. Then turn engine 360 degrees so marks line up. That's T.D.C. You can check your intake and exhaust valves, and also look for marks on the gears they should be lined up or facing opposite each other at that point. At least you can check them until a manual shows up. My 310 uses 950mm shims to adjust the valves. They are the same size as a crf450. I'll bet you will have the 750mm shims like the crf250.
 
Based on the pics, it looks like it should be pretty easy to check the valve lash- like Kelly said.
Might even be a bit easier, as you can come straight in with a feeler as opposed to having to come in at an odd angle on the 04-09 motors.

R&R-ing the cams will be a bit more work to replace shims, but shouldn't be too bad since you don't have to mess with the cam chain. Looks like about 20 minutes, being careful and taking your time. Won't be a big deal if you only have to do it every 100-200 hours.

The Key for me is if these motors have the same kind of durability I've been spoiled with on my 07.
 
A torque spec would be cool for reinstalling the cam caps if you need to re-shim. The rest is all right here. :thumbsup:
 
2010 TE 250 Valve Clearance Check

Has anybody managed to get any information on cam timing positions to check the valve clearance on the 2010 TE motor?

Thanks
 
The manual says line the round hole in each cam with the parting lines of the cam caps. There are indents in the gears that should line up and will be in the center, toward each other.

You are almost there in your bottom picture.
 
Motosportz;60403 said:
A torque spec would be cool for reinstalling the cam caps if you need to re-shim. The rest is all right here. :thumbsup:
Click to expand...

I second that most deffinetly get the torque specs for the caps.My ltr450 quad has a very similar valve train witch takes 8- ft.lbs and a very specific manufacturers note in the service manual stating specifically to not over tighten. My local dealer also stressed this as well. Torque is key
 
They show no specs for the cam cover bolts, so they must fall under the standard M6x1 (7.6-8.4 Nm; 0.80-0.85 Kgm; 5.8-6.1 ft/lb)
 
No manuals came with the bikes? As long as you do not have to re-time the engine, this process is easier than most other brands I have read about ... except my 08 TXC250 :) ...

Nice Pics!
 
I carried out the valve clearance check and found them to be spot on.

The proces is really simple, just:

Decide on the cam you wish to check and identify the punch line adjacent to the round hole on the cam drive gear. The turn the engine over (in the normal direction of rotation) until a punch mark on the cylinder head appears in the round hole in the drive gear and alignes with the punch line . Then simply check the valve clearance.

Repeat for the second cam.

Hope this helps. The top end is a jewel!

Antz
 
Hi
I have a 2011 Te 310 i have chacked the valve clearance .16 inlet and .24 exh so will need to change shims, Does any one have the torque figers for the cam cap bolts.
there are 2 sizes M6 & M5

Cheers

Paul
 
I'm also interested in torq specs. Also, wouldn't there be a clearance allowance 0.**mm - 0.**mm intake and 0.**mm - 0.**mm exhaust? I cant imagine if the intake and exhaust aren't exactly 0.15mm and 0.20mm they need to be shimmed. Every engine I've ever known has a small variance.
 
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