• 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

250-500cc Petrol on hot motor

raysaw

raysaw

Husqvarna
AA Class
Hello fellow Huskers
I NEED YOUR HELP
My WR300's tank (2009 model) has become brittle and cracks are appearing all over the under side, meaning when I am riding premix is dripping over my engine. I am told I can't have it plastic welded as it would just slpit somewhere else. BUT, and here's the clinch - replacement tank (genuine is $570 AUS or IMS 3.4 Gallon $390 AUS. Anyone know any cheaper options?
Thanks
Raysaw
 
Flush the tank and leave the cap and petcock off, if you can find where the cracks are, look for the start and finish of the cracks and drill small hole to stop the crack from spreading.

With the tip of a hot soldering iron, gouge out the length of the crack enough to fill. If you can get some Q-Bond adhesive, fill these gouges with the Q-Bond and it's good as gold. You can use kneedit or quiksteel as well but you'll need to roughen up the surround area if you want it to strongly stick.
I've sealed a crack on my tank with QBond for over 2 years and no leak...now the petcock on OTOH :mad:
 
give BMP or Halls an email & check their prices. be a hell of a lot cheaper even factoring in shipping! ask on classifieds here also:thumbsup:
 
Update:
Attempted repair as per suggestions above using a range of flexible polyethylene capable products but the tank is just too brittle. Spent the other day thinking I had finally got it right but then noticed my boots were wet.............. Engine covered in premix. Local Husky dealer said it was unusual for a tank to become brittle in such Got a quote from Halls at $349 US delivered - which was great but my local shop has near matched it. Oh well, bike has been very good to me so I shouldn't complain. Just thought I would pass on my personal experience.
 
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