• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Penetrating oil what`s your fav.?

I like PB Blaster for a consumer grade product, but this "Industrial Only" stuff we have at work (sorry forget the name) works awesome!
 
Where are you guys buying the Kroil at?

I have only seen this stuff in the Eastwood restoration catalog.

I am currently using a product called SP3 it comes in a 24 oz metal can with a spray bottle pump and it does not stink like PB Blaster!

I THINK THE PB STANDS FOR PUKE BILE, but it does work pretty good though especially on styrofoam cups.:thumbsup:
 
w/o a doubt this stuff:

http://www.corrosionx.com/ma_use.html

i have 3 cans left of the old school stuff from a helicopter plant. i use it for everything including scrubbing gun bores. cleans shotgun bores in two seconds and is non-corrosive. it's busted loose rusted and seized solid caliper pins, truck suspension bolts etc. it flat works.

after that kroil gets the nod.

http://www.kanolabs.com/

i use this stuff as above, mixed with shooters choice it makes a killer bore scrub.
 
no its a penetrant and made to displace stuff heavier than it and its the wrong type of lube for chains. better than nothing but....theres better stuff to use.
 
I have not tried or endorse any of these, just wasting time




I'm not going to verify or endorse this. Draw your own conclusions.
Happy knuckle busting !

Machinist's Workshop Magazine (March/April or May/June, 2007) actually tested penetrants for break out torque on rusted nuts. Significant results! They are below, as forwarded by an ex-student and professional machinist, Bud Baker.

They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrants with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" environment.

*Penetrating oil ..... Average load*

None ..................... 516 pounds
WD-40 .................. 238 pounds
PB Blaster ............. 214 pounds
Liquid Wrench ..... 127 pounds
Kano Kroil ............ 106 pounds
ATF-Acetone mix....53 pounds

The ATF-Acetone mix was a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone. Note the "home brew" was better than any commercial product in this one particular test. Our local machinist group mixed up a batch, and we all now use it with equally good results. Note also that "Liquid Wrench" is about as good as "Kroil" for about 20% of the price.

 
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