• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

pcv a/t worth it?

B_M_F

B_M_F

Husqvarna
A Class
i have been reading this forum for 2 days strait... is it worth it? should i do pcv alone or also auto tune?? alot of mixed reviews as i read sooo many posts im getting about 40 miles per tank and i have not done the pump mod so i read its short 0.4 when the bike cuts off.... it runs well i have the power up kit. i shortened the exhaust and removed emissions crap. thanks in advance guys. also i beat is not an option no dealers around for 500 miles.
 
40 miles/tank is way too low. I get about 70 miles to the low-fuel light (1.5 gal used/ .4 left in the tank). This is with an 08 TE510 w/PU kit and 14/50 cogs.

Start with the fuel pump fix, and go from there.
 
it looks like im just going to go the pcv without A/T feature. seems like thats where alot of the problems are. plus i dont want to change values every ride and or get stranded.
 
B_M_F said:
it looks like im just going to go the pcv without A/T feature. seems like thats where alot of the problems are. plus i dont want to change values every ride and or get stranded.
Click to expand...
is this the general consensus? i am running the stock air filter have all the crap taken out the spark arrest screen....? should i get a kn filter or bmc?
 
Stock air filter is a good unit, don't waste your money there. The PCV alone will not be worth it unless you have a local tuner with a dyno create a custom map for you. The autotune works, but isn't without its quirks. It wont leave you stranded as long as you set it up properly. I have mine set to limit changes to +/- 10%. This is a small enough percent it wont make it not run, but is enough to see what changes it wants to make. It is simple to hook the PCV up to a laptop after rides and is actually sort of fun to see the changes it wants to make. If you aren't happy with the way it runs, don't accept the new trims and keep the old map. Also, save save save! Save every map and date it that way you can easily revert if you want. When the auto tune changes get very small, dis-able it, remove the wide band O2 sensor and the autotune and you're done.
 
B_M_F said:
it looks like im just going to go the pcv without A/T feature. seems like thats where alot of the problems are. plus i dont want to change values every ride and or get stranded.
Click to expand...

Is the ECU jumper resistor installed properly? It sounds like the install of the PU wasn't right. The ECU may think the lambda sensor is still in place and is signaling a lean condition. It could also be the iBeat CO values are not right. Before throwing $$ at the problem, verify that everything is connected/configured properly.
 
went out there and tore all the pu components off and re installed i had a high idle at 1,670 rpm turned it down a bit after it was warmed up of coarse. Also i disconnected the battery and re connected it hoping it will clear any issues from before. i saw a jd jetting thread. need to call him up ask about his product.
 
ok well im going on a 200 mile ride today so i will see if anything changes. After re installing all the pu stuff.
 
On my '08 SMR with the power up kit, I was getting about 70 miles to the tank (empty) with no hard stops. Once I hit 50 miles, any hard stop or attitude change of the chassis, it'd stall. My fuel pump was WAY out of it prongs. Safety wire fixed that issue. Today I was getting about 80~85 miles until I had to push the bike. It was getting flogged quite heavily. So with a more sedate but fun pace, I'm betting it'll get a bit more mileage out of the stock tank.

I did notice that when warm, she does NOT like any throttle input with the clutch in and during idle. ie, a short burst of fuel to prepare to get the clutch going out (over an obstacle). Stalled on me at the most unoppertune times. With the PU kit, the "race" map is VERY rich. I'm thinking of getting the PC5 and having my trusted tuner make a map. No need for the auto tune kit if you get it tuned on a dyno. Maybe some more tweaking here or there, but that's usually a very small shift and you can play with it on your laptop.
 
B_M_F said:
i have been reading this forum for 2 days strait... is it worth it? should i do pcv alone or also auto tune??
Click to expand...
Depends on the bike. 2008 bikes were really really rich when the power up kit is installed, 2009s were much better but not perfect, I've not tested any 2010s+.
Without the power up kit on the 2008 bikes... they really did not run great (in my humble opinion).

I highly recommend the auto tune if you get the PCV. The maps that are created at dynojet, for the most part, are acceleration only. That means when you close the throttle with the clutch still engaged.. at maybe 5000 rpms such as approaching a stop sign, those cells are not filled in (5000 rpm, 0 throttle). On the 2008 TE250 I tested under those conditions with auto tune disabled and dynojet created map it went from cells which took out 30% of the fuel to 0% adjustment - and the bike tended to stall. The autotune filled in those cells nicely.

But as mentioned earlier, the autotune does have some quirks.
 
Tee-Dub said:
Stock air filter is a good unit, don't waste your money there. The PCV alone will not be worth it unless you have a local tuner with a dyno create a custom map for you. The autotune works, but isn't without its quirks. It wont leave you stranded as long as you set it up properly. I have mine set to limit changes to +/- 10%. This is a small enough percent it wont make it not run, but is enough to see what changes it wants to make. It is simple to hook the PCV up to a laptop after rides and is actually sort of fun to see the changes it wants to make. If you aren't happy with the way it runs, don't accept the new trims and keep the old map. Also, save save save! Save every map and date it that way you can easily revert if you want. When the auto tune changes get very small, dis-able it, remove the wide band O2 sensor and the autotune and you're done.
Click to expand...
Great post! :thumbsup:
 
wish i could get more info on the vortex unit since it is a complete ecu. i have a 2008 with pu kit coffee
 
just finished installing PCV & AT, 08 te510
its now working a treat, bike is MUCH smoother and great big fat mid range now ,

BUT,
READ THE INSTRUCTIONS CAREFULLY,(i'm typical aussie male, read the book properly when the problems started)
 
Nice looks like this is the route to go vs any of the timing advance mechanisms out there... Like the JD KIT...
 
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