• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

One hole too many

Brad-in-STL

Husqvarna
AA Class
So I took my new-to-me '85 400WRX for the first woods ride today. Very nice on single/double track. The WRX actually feels lighter than my TE250.

However, at the end of the ride the rubber pad on the clutch cover fell off revealing a pretty good size hole from the kick starter. I didn't have any gum ;), so I was done for the day.

This looks too big for JB weld, right? Get it welded? Thoughts?

Thanks in advance.
 

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:censored: I was afraid of that! :censored:

Just in case I asked a professional welder friend to give it a try, what is that cover made of? Aluminum?
 
Got mine welded up, same problem my case was magnesium cost of repair was $25.
Take the cover off clean off all the oil and take it back to bare metal aound the weld area, heated the area with a propane torch t sweat out any additional oil .
Have the shop weld it and you do the final grinding and sanding fill any small pits with jb weld, sandback and paint.
Look at the kick start stopper thread on this page for ideas on a suitable glue, make up a rubber pad and stick her on.
One thing i did was grind back the pawl plate on the inside of the clutch cover about 10mm so it engages the mechanism earlier inthe stroke.
Dont put too much tension on the return spring.
Magnesium is flammable esp in dust form,use sand to extinguish or a suitable fire extinguisher .
 
I'd patch it. Bend a piece of aluminum to fit and weld it, its most likely magnesium.
I wash it, hit it with a flame to get the oil off.
I tig weld it in a box I flood with argon. This way no fires.
 
I'd patch it. Bend a piece of aluminum to fit and weld it, its most likely magnesium.
I wash it, hit it with a flame to get the oil off.
I tig weld it in a box I flood with argon. This way no fires.
you can weld aluminum to magnesium?
 
find out the material first
it is liquid cooled, correct?
the early covers were magnesium and the later ones were aluminum
does it have an extra screw hole? behind the vent tube?
 
OK... next question - can someone send me the thread for clutch cover removal for an '85 400WRX?

Premo, I don't see an extra screw behind the vent tube... what does this indicate?
 
OK... next question - can someone send me the thread for clutch cover removal for an '85 400WRX?

Premo, I don't see an extra screw behind the vent tube... what does this indicate?



take a pic of the cover and post

to pull the cover lay the bike on it's right side, remove the screws and lift the cover off

if you want it off to weld
dump the coolant by removing the hose to the water pump
drain the transmission and remove the screws, leave the shifter and kicker on till you remove it
 
OK... next question - can someone send me the thread for clutch cover removal for an '85 400WRX?

Premo, I don't see an extra screw behind the vent tube... what does this indicate?


the extra screw is a later design cover and aluminum most likely
 
I believe that if you use magnesium TIG rod it will weld the two different metals together.

Checkout the certainium website.
 
Would just ring round and see who can do the job, specialised aircraft guys do it but charge more.
Let them know its a magnesium alloy anyone who repairs chainsw cases will do the work.they will test metal before starting, stick with magnesium to avoid chrystalisation of blended metals once repaired make sure you grind back the inside if it potrudes into the clutch basket area.
 
... make sure you grind back the inside if it potrudes into the clutch basket area.

That's what I was thinking. As long as the internal dimension is the same I don't really care how it looks on the outside.
Thanks for the replies... :applause:
 
Wow. I learned a lot when removing the clutch cover on this Husky. I've not seen the kicker and shifter come off with the cover. Those smart Swedes. Found some balls of JB weld in there from previous fix attempts, that can't be good.

Which leads me to the next question: Are these "notches" in the teeth on the clutch basket gear supposed to be there?

Also, does the new cover gasket go on "dry"?

Thanks in advance.
 

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Wow. I learned a lot when removing the clutch cover on this Husky. I've not seen the kicker and shifter come off with the cover. Those smart Swedes. Found some balls of JB weld in there from previous fix attempts, that can't be good.

Which leads me to the next question: Are these "notches" in the teeth on the clutch basket gear supposed to be there?

Also, does the new cover gasket go on "dry"?

Thanks in advance.


the notches as yours have are on another thread, same question

yes the gasket typically is dry, silicone is your friend

can we see a pic of the inside of the cover
 
gasket seal the gasket to the clutch cover, with a light coat of grease of the other side of gasket. the gasket will then be reusable and wont leak...will just stay stuck to the cover.
 
when the pawl and the kicker setup are reassembled wrong or theroller bearings in the main case die the kicker gear can savage the clutch ring gear like that. usually a "new Husky owner" like I was 40 years ago will pull the kicker and the gear lever off the first time they take the clutch cover off ....then the fun begins. inevitably the kicker gets reassembled 1 spline to far and there is a hell to pay inside.:eek::oldman::naughty:
 
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