• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

One book arrived today day.

Bigbill

Husqvarna
Pro Class
TWO STROKE PERFORMANCE TUNING by A.G. Bell.

Just skimming through it all the ideas I thought about are in this book. It's all there. It's well worth it if your looking for all the free performance upgrades. I'm going to get a degree wheel too. So everything is timed to the location of the piston in relationship to the ports. I think the 430cr, 390or are going to get special attention.

I was into degreeing the cam shafts to crank relationships in building drag race engines. There's no room for error. I'm A perfectionist. I built a 396/325hp using all stock Chevy parts I had 300hp @ rear wheels and 400hp@ engine estimated on a full body car dyno. I ported the heads and intake. She ran 12.85et 1/4 mile on the second run. That's a 4,050lb Impala c/ modified class. I did every possible trick.
Building engines is my forte.
 
i figured you would like that one. its pretty hardcore! geared more towards karts and roadrace 2 strokes but lots of good reading. tons of info on pipe building and theory.
no boost bottles tho..
 
I was thinking that. Nitrous. Lmao. Imagine a 390 shifter cart. That's sick.

Back to the topic porting is a free performance upgrade with free horsepower. Just don't do it a little and think that's good enough. Follow the Husqvarna specs on porting. Arc the exhaust port. I raised it 1/8" in the center of the arc and 1/16" on both sides. I ported out the extra material in the port then polished it. Getting rid of the spent exhaust gasses faster/smoother allows the transfer ports to enter the new atomized mix faster. With a properly ported and tuned two stroke the rpm/ throttle response is right there the milk second you touch the throttle. There's no slow response it's there.

What amount we move the exhaust port up we lose some on the bottom end. You can port the exhaust port 1/32" on the left and right side and 1/16" in the center arc. I ported each bike to test what amount makes the biggest difference. Then I put everything I learned into the 81 Husqvarna cr250. She flew.

On a big bore the power band is much wider. Either way you port it will be ok. Remember building a two stroke isn't for the faint hearted. If your not a well experienced rider you must consider if you want to port it to spec or just clean it up. It does become a exciting ride.
 
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