All 2st ok, got my engine back together!!!

[razornpc]

now, i just need to put the synergy bushing in my linkage and see if i can destroy it. i plan on taking it apart after about 10 hours. i will measure ID and continue keep an eye on it.

ill try to post on here and keep everyone up to date on how its lasting.

i was also kinda of wondering how you know how much your are advancing and retarding ignition timing on bikes. i know how to do it on a car or a deisel angine but i have no idea how to on a bike. i just lined up the marks i made when i took it apart and matched them back up.

oh well, some things will continue to be a black art to me.

FYI, everytime you do a top end, do yourself a favor and replace the head o-rings. the inner one is a beotch to dig out of the grove once its melted.

 

[MOTORHEAD]

Do you put a little grease in the o-ring groove?

 

[PC.]

I couldn't even get my Synergy bushing installed. It was too tight and was getting destroyed as I pressed it in. Which reminds me.... I need to call them and arrange a refund.

I haven't even checked my WR's timing, but my YZ is retarded 1.5deg from stock. Its in a pretty aggressive state of tune with high compression and I dont want to shell out the cash for race gas, so I backed the timing off to compensate for the lower octane pump junk. Advanced timing traditionally makes for a harder hit off idle and less over rev, but is more susceptible to detonation. Retarding the timing will soften the hit off bottom and add over rev.

To measure it you'll need a dial gauge indicator with threads that will fit into the spark plug hole. I bought a cheapie gauge at Harbor Freight and then cut off the threaded end from a spark plug and pressed it onto the gauge. I probably spent $10 for both the gauge and sacrificial spark plug.

The finished product would look like this, but with the threads from a spark plug pressed onto the stem

Here's the protocal for the YZ timing. I imagine it'll be the close to or the same for the WR's.
-Screw gauge into the spark plug hole
-Find TDC
-Zero out gauge
-Line up mark on flywheel with mark on stator plate
-Read gauge and compare to spec sheet.

Example:
.010 is 1 deg advanced
.007 is stock
.004 is 1 deg retarded
.002 is 2 deg retarded

I can do it on my WR next week and take some pics if you like.

 

[Motosportz]

I couldn't even get my Synergy bushing installed. It was too tight and was getting destroyed as I pressed it in. Which reminds me.... I need to call them and arrange a refund.

I haven't even checked my WR's timing, but my YZ is retarded 1.5deg from stock. Its in a pretty aggressive state of tune with high compression and I dont want to shell out the cash for race gas, so I backed the timing off to compensate for the lower octane pump junk. Advanced timing traditionally makes for a harder hit off idle and less over rev, but is more susceptible to detonation. Retarding the timing will soften the hit off bottom and add over rev.

To measure it you'll need a dial gauge indicator with threads that will fit into the spark plug hole. I bought a cheapie gauge at Harbor Freight and then cut off the threaded end from a spark plug and pressed it onto the gauge. I probably spent $10 for both the gauge and sacrificial spark plug.

The finished product would look like this, but with the threads from a spark plug pressed onto the stem

Here's the protocal for the YZ timing. I imagine it'll be the close to or the same for the WR's.
-Screw gauge into the spark plug hole
-Find TDC
-Zero out gauge
-Line up mark on flywheel with mark on stator plate
-Read gauge and compare to spec sheet.

Example:
.010 is 1 deg advanced
.007 is stock
.004 is 1 deg retarded
.002 is 2 deg retarded

I can do it on my WR next week and take some pics if you like.

Wouldn't that method depend on the stoke as to what measurement / figures mean what?

 

[razornpc]

I couldn't even get my Synergy bushing installed. It was too tight and was getting destroyed as I pressed it in. Which reminds me.... I need to call them and arrange a refund.

mine went. tight as hell the whole way bit it fit and everything else seems to fit. no room for seals. we will see how it does when i do my next topend.