• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

oil in the air box 2012 the 511

K

kenny shirmey

Husqvarna
Hello, I recently opened the air box and found oil where the connector comes into the box. Im not sure if its an overflow because the oil barely registers in the looking glass. Also the oil possibly has a minor gas smell… I can't tell if thats normal. Ive been reading and it sounds like this could be a common problem, people say to put 1150 ml of oil in.

How do I know Ive put enough oil in?

How do I know this isn't a more serious problem?

Thanks in advance
 
Common problem, which is why most of us at least run the ZipTy breather mod, or the full oil recirculation kit. The stock breather location tends to force oil up into the airbox at higher rpm. A common, but not great idea early on was to run less oil so it wouldn't do it.

This is a bad idea and could lead to damage (even though you already have a bunch of miles). You should have at the very minimum 1/2-3/4 oil showing in the sight glass when warmed up and engine off standing straight and not the kickstand.
 
Thanks buddy, yeah I will look into the zippy breather mod. Ive seen a lot of people talking about it. Have a good one!!


Huskynoobee said:
Common problem, which is why most of us at least run the ZipTy breather mod, or the full oil recirculation kit. The stock breather location tends to force oil up into the airbox at higher rpm. A common, but not great idea early on was to run less oil so it wouldn't do it.

This is a bad idea and could lead to damage (even though you already have a bunch of miles). You should have at the very minimum 1/2-3/4 oil showing in the sight glass when warmed up and engine off standing straight and not the kickstand.
Click to expand...
 
I had the same problem, I used a plastic reducer to go from the engine hose to a hose similar in size as the rad vent hose and routed down to a small catch can on the other side of the engine. I did this to keep from getting oil all over the air filter & air box. I would just empty the can when I changed the oil. Good news though, I've got about 3000kms on it and I haven't emptied the can in 6 months or 7 oil changes - I keep the oil level just a smidgen under the top of the sight glass when cold, use amsoil dirtbike 10/40 as it supposed to get less foamy, change oil every 12hrs give or take.
I've found that after about the first 2000kms the engine seems to get really good, no issues.
I keep the rear linkage joints well greased (where the nipples are), I've replaced the rear wheel bearings a couple of times, and had to replace the starter motor probably because I'm a little overzealous with the spray hose.
I love my bike
 
Shawntrain said:
I had the same problem, I used a plastic reducer to go from the engine hose to a hose similar in size as the rad vent hose and routed down to a small catch can on the other side of the engine. I did this to keep from getting oil all over the air filter & air box. I would just empty the can when I changed the oil. Good news though, I've got about 3000kms on it and I haven't emptied the can in 6 months or 7 oil changes - I keep the oil level just a smidgen under the top of the sight glass when cold, use amsoil dirtbike 10/40 as it supposed to get less foamy, change oil every 12hrs give or take.
I've found that after about the first 2000kms the engine seems to get really good, no issues.
I keep the rear linkage joints well greased (where the nipples are), I've replaced the rear wheel bearings a couple of times, and had to replace the starter motor probably because I'm a little overzealous with the spray hose.
I love my bike
Click to expand...

Thanks Shawntrain, where is the rear linkage and how to you grease em??
 
You can see one of the grease nipples (some say fittings or grease ports) in the photo of the drag link right beside where #1 is pointing to. The other nipple can't be seen in the photo, but is just above the lower connection of the drag link, on the upper connection. I use a regular hand pump grease gun with mobile 1 synthetic grease (red in color), grease every three rides (about 12-15 hrs), and pump enough in so I can see the new stuff squirt out at the ends.
 
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