• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

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    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Oil drain plug size on TE 250..

montanaman

Husqvarna
A Class
I did a search and could not find the correct size wrench to use to remove that PITA oil drain plug on my 2011 TE 250. I have changed the oil before and I have the correct wrench but I am in a different area now and I am about to strip that bolt with a Metric #12 which fits the bolt but I tightened it to much and I cant get it to budge w/out stripping it. errrrrrrrr. why could'nt they have made that an easier thing to get at?

Would it be possible to drain all the oil using the side filter area and just lean it way over?
That would be so much easier..
 
I had some trouble with it too - almost stripping the bolt. Kind of annoying the position of the plug because part of the chasis covers that area. Very tight position ugh. Are the newer models 310s any better? I'm on a 2010 TE250.

I find it best to do it from the left side (if you are sitting on bike, left) and wrench it from that angle/position. Typically I hold onto bike to secure it with my left as I reach under with my right hand and wrench it towards my body. That's the best method I have found
 
The 2010's are the best for that....the 2011 on are even worse because of that drainback line on the oil plug!
 
You would think that as much as you have to change the oil in these bikes they'd make it a bit more user friendly. I use a combination open/box-end 12mm to remove mine and a long, angled dental pick to remove the screen. I guess that stupid hose on the '11 eliminates the ability to use the angled box end. Maybe it just wasn't difficult enough on the '10 model?
 
just eliminate the entire drain back/vapor (EPA) system, and get a TC250 plug. Its far easier than dealing with all that vent recirculation crap. block the intake manifold fitting with a plug. keep the crankcase vent tube into the backbone in place, block off the lower backbone oil return bung with a vacuum cap and run the upper vent hose down to a crankcase filter (K&N type is what I use). A little regurgitated/condensed oil may sit in the low point of the backbone but thats no issue. Crank venting is still clear and if alot of oil gets into the backbone it will drain back into the upper engine breather. Oil service is so often on things anyway.
 
Does any one of you know the dimensions of the Oil plug ?? I m about to order a new one but i can´t find the Size Any where, Is it M12x ???
 
Guys, that have a crush washer, you do not need to tighten the bolt that much. just a good snug. look at the torque specifications. I have a 2011 TE250 and i change my oil all the time no problem. It's not the bike, i would agree that it is not in the best location, just don't over tighten it.
 
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