• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Not a bad result..

cjard

cjard

Husqvarna
C Class
..sorted the electrical gremlins on ym bike thanks to the guys here:

Headlight wasnt working.. Turned out the switch in the left switchgear had melted. Not having another one I disconnected it and was then wondering what to do for a headlight.. well, the bike has no indicators and it's unlikely i'll add them when my arms work pretty well, so i wired the headlight to the indicator switch instead, by unsoldering the melted swith and soldering the wires on at the indicators.. Handy part now is I can have dipped, full beam, or I can turn em off (push indicator reset)

While I was at it with the soldering iron, I wired the horn switch up to the map switcher.. this bike has no horn either so i'm not missing it.. Push of the horn button to change maps now!

Robbed a speeed sensor out of a $5 cycle computer on my bicycle

Ready to ride! Thanks guys
CJ
 
cjard said:
..sorted the electrical gremlins on ym bike thanks to the guys here:

Headlight wasnt working.. Turned out the switch in the left switchgear had melted. Not having another one I disconnected it and was then wondering what to do for a headlight.. well, the bike has no indicators and it's unlikely i'll add them when my arms work pretty well, so i wired the headlight to the indicator switch instead, by unsoldering the melted swith and soldering the wires on at the indicators.. Handy part now is I can have dipped, full beam, or I can turn em off (push indicator reset)

While I was at it with the soldering iron, I wired the horn switch up to the map switcher.. this bike has no horn either so i'm not missing it.. Push of the horn button to change maps now!

Robbed a speeed sensor out of a $5 cycle computer on my bicycle

Ready to ride! Thanks guys
CJ
Click to expand...

My headlight had been down for a while and I recently decided to fix it.The failure was also a burned out switch. I found that the small square metal contact point between the slider (moving part of the switch) had just dropped a tad. This IM guessing caused the two points to arc and char the metal and melt the plastic surrounds.

Of course husqvarna doesnt sell just the switch, you have to buy the whole LH Switch block- $114 AUD!

I just soldered the low beam wire. I dont ride at night very much but the high beam can still be used by the other "hold in" type switch at the back. I might mod this in the future.
 
Wouldn't you have to hold the horn to make 2cd map stay on or is there a relay? Horn switch would not stay on after bring pushed makes contact then returns to open when released.
 
duggoey said:
My headlight had been down for a while and I recently decided to fix it.The failure was also a burned out switch. I found that the small square metal contact point between the slider (moving part of the switch) had just dropped a tad. This IM guessing caused the two points to arc and char the metal and melt the plastic surrounds.

Of course husqvarna doesnt sell just the switch, you have to buy the whole LH Switch block- $114 AUD!

I just soldered the low beam wire. I dont ride at night very much but the high beam can still be used by the other "hold in" type switch at the back. I might mod this in the future.
Click to expand...
@duggoey: the exact same thing had happened on mine. That button you push in and out to go between hi and lo beam, essentially it slides a triangular bit of metal over a plastic board with 3 metal connectors in it.. in one position connectors A and B are linked (B for the dipped beam), in the other, A and C are linked (C for the main beam).. the connector for the dipped beam, in the plastic board, had got hot, melted the solder and the plastic had deformed, dropping the contact pad and exacerbating the problem

I havent had any problems thus far with the mod I described: wire the power supply to the common pin of the indicator switch, wire dipped to another pin and main to the third. To get dipped put an indicator on, main put the other indicator on, lights off push the indicator button.. I'll let you know if this setup melts too :)

You'd probably get a good result obtaining any old switchgear off ebay.. I probably wouldnt get a husky one again as I think this switch is particularly poor in light of the current it would be carrying in ordinary service. It should have been relayed
 
Benriding said:
Wouldn't you have to hold the horn to make 2cd map stay on or is there a relay? Horn switch would not stay on after bring pushed makes contact then returns to open when released.
Click to expand...

In this particular bike, the map swithc is a "push to make" connector.. You hold the button for 5 seconds when the engine is warm, it makes contact, the ECU switches mode, then you release the switch.. It's not a 2 position constant connection type
 
cjard said:
@duggoey: the exact same thing had happened on mine. That button you push in and out to go between hi and lo beam, essentially it slides a triangular bit of metal over a plastic board with 3 metal connectors in it.. in one position connectors A and B are linked (B for the dipped beam), in the other, A and C are linked (C for the main beam).. the connector for the dipped beam, in the plastic board, had got hot, melted the solder and the plastic had deformed, dropping the contact pad and exacerbating the problem

I havent had any problems thus far with the mod I described: wire the power supply to the common pin of the indicator switch, wire dipped to another pin and main to the third. To get dipped put an indicator on, main put the other indicator on, lights off push the indicator button.. I'll let you know if this setup melts too :)

You'd probably get a good result obtaining any old switchgear off ebay.. I probably wouldnt get a husky one again as :thumbsup: I think this switch is particularly poor in light of the current it would be carrying in ordinary service. It should have been relayed :thumbsup:
Click to expand...

I have commented on it in a fair few threads that i think the electrics (on this otherwise awsome bike) look as if they were home made. The wiring "loom" looks similar to medusa's hair and regularly rubs through the microscopically thin insulation in heaps of areas. Most of the time the fixes husky could have made at the factory could have been cheap and simple such as an additional layer of tape..
 
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