• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Noob With TE310 Front Suspension Question

Mike-AK

Husqvarna
Pro Class
Newbie question here. I need to install stiffer springs in the forks on my 2012 TE310. Do I need to remove the fork legs from the triple clamps to do this, or do I simply remove the caps, swap out the springs, and replace the caps? If I have to remove the fork legs, do I have to drain the oil, and if so, what weight oil do I need to replace it with, and how high do I top them off, and do I measure from the top of the tube with the fork legs extended or compressed? Sorry for all the questions, but I don't want to screw this up. Any other advice would be appreciated as well. Thanks.
 
To replace the springs only is a simple job.

1) Put the bike on a stand with all weight off of the front wheel.
2) loosen & remove the 4-bolts on the handle bar clamp a set handle bars on the tank or front fender.
3) IMPORTANT- loosen the top "triple clamp" bolts that hold the fork tubes in place, keep the lower bolts as is.
4) remove the fork caps; they will pop-up slightly due to spring pressure from below.
5) either bend a coat hanger to fish the spring out (easiest) or lift the front wheel to expose the spring to remove.
6) the springs will have oil on them so take your time and let the oil drain back into the fork tube.

When putting it all back together, do not over tighten those triple clamp bolts, torque to spec.
 
Wow...I had no idea it would be that easy. Thank you very much!

Maybe the schematic will help....

2012TE310forks.jpg
 
Mike AK, do me a favor.

I believe part #42 in the schematic above is shown upside down. When you pop your cap off (which I assume has not been off since leaving the factory), tell me if I'm wrong or not?

Thanks!
 
Thanks OHR. As far as I can tell from the service manual, bolt #12 is an M8 and should be torqued to 25Nm, correct?

Aaron8, I will check and let you know. I plan to do the work on the 2nd so I should have you an answer then.
 
To replace the springs only is a simple job.

1) Put the bike on a stand with all weight off of the front wheel.
2) loosen & remove the 4-bolts on the handle bar clamp a set handle bars on the tank or front fender.
3) IMPORTANT- loosen the top "triple clamp" bolts that hold the fork tubes in place, keep the lower bolts as is.
4) remove the fork caps; they will pop-up slightly due to spring pressure from below.
5) either bend a coat hanger to fish the spring out (easiest) or lift the front wheel to expose the spring to remove.
6) the springs will have oil on them so take your time and let the oil drain back into the fork tube.

When putting it all back together, do not over tighten those triple clamp bolts, torque to spec.
Also, do NOT over tighten the fork caps, unless you have $110 burning a hole in your pocket. Ask me how I know...
 
Wow...I had no idea it would be that easy. Thank you very much!

Fork work in general is not too difficult BUT it is more delicate than taking a link from a chain and a little tricky at times so no rushing and pay attention to detail ...
 
Hey Mike,
what did you end up replacing your stock springs with?

I think the suspension in my 2012 TE310 may be too light as well. It's a nice soft ride but I hit the bump stops often.

I'm around 210 lbs with my winter riding gear.
 
Hey Mike,
what did you end up replacing your stock springs with?

I think the suspension in my 2012 TE310 may be too light as well. It's a nice soft ride but I hit the bump stops often.

I'm around 210 lbs with my winter riding gear.

I went with .48Kg/mm springs from Race Tech. I also installed one of their 6.0Kg/mm springs in the back. I'm about 230lbs and I ended up with 25mm of static sag, 100mm of rider sag, and a nice level suspension front to back. I'm pleased with the outcome.

Next project is a TXC injector and ECU.
 

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