• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

New WR250 Questions

jmp2001

jmp2001

Husqvarna
B Class
Hey Everyone

New Husky owner here. I just picked up a new WR250 and wanted to get some feedback on how to break it in and any other helpful hints or tips. Thanks
 
Dont get frustrated with the kicker. Its a technique and it also gets easier to start after a couple hours on the motor. Make sure your primary nut is tight. Dealer should have an idea about that. Its been an issue on a couple bikes in 2012. The suspension will soften up and sag more after a few rides so i wouldnt even bother setting sag or anything else. Get some good radiator guards and skid plate. If you have the time and know-how, disassemble the bike and grease all the important pivot points. Steering stem, swingarm pivot axle, wheel axles, etc. They apparently apply grease with the same Lego sized toothpaste container as the Japanese factories.
Other than that, enjoy the bike. You will love it more and more as it breaks in. One last thing, if the clutch cable is an issue, get a Motion Pro "longitudinally wound" cable. Worth the money!!
 
K5PL5 said:
Dont get frustrated with the kicker. Its a technique and it also gets easier to start after a couple hours on the motor. Make sure your primary nut is tight. Dealer should have an idea about that. Its been an issue on a couple bikes in 2012. The suspension will soften up and sag more after a few rides so i wouldnt even bother setting sag or anything else. Get some good radiator guards and skid plate. If you have the time and know-how, disassemble the bike and grease all the important pivot points. Steering stem, swingarm pivot axle, wheel axles, etc. They apparently apply grease with the same Lego sized toothpaste container as the Japanese factories.
Other than that, enjoy the bike. You will love it more and more as it breaks in. One last thing, if the clutch cable is an issue, get a Motion Pro "longitudinally wound" cable. Worth the money!!
Click to expand...


If you get the motion pro cable order one 3 inches shorter then stock the stock one is 50 inched order one 47 and then run the cable up the left over the head next to the rad on the right and up to the left clutch cable no need to have it infront of the motor next to the pipe It works for me to lube the cable get a motion pro luber or take cable and soak it in trans fluid
you can do that by filling a piece of pvc pipe with fluid and then but the cable in it
 
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