xymotic
Husqvarna
AA Class
I've had a lot (LOT) of problems breaking signals on My TE. I've bought cheap ones, and expensive ones, and they all suck. Mostly they are just invisible, but I've also had them fall apart when I installed them. None of them survive a dirtect hit.
In Baja, I broke the sub-frame, and the entire tail came with it.
So When I got back I set about fixing this mess once and for all. Fortunately In Baja I met a fellow inmate named Roundstock, and he graciously offered to help me fix my sub-frame. :clap Without his magical TIG skills I'd still be dealing with this crap. You gotta love bumping into someone at Alfonsina's and making a friend.
First we (he) welded and re-enforced the sub-frame.
Next we made a new fender support out of much thicker plate than husky but thinner than my disastrous one:
I was so excited to get the sub-frame fixed, I sort of forgot about the lighting!
I was going to re-mount mt DRC tail light, and maybe just put some U-Channel to extend it out to the back of the bike. But the DRC bracket was a bit cracked, and was looking like it wasn't gonna make it. I did find some U Channel the right size but McMaster Carr wanted like 40 bucks for it.
Roundstock sent me to a local place, where I found scrap U Channel exactly the right size for $2 a pound.
So we made a 90 degree bend in it to mount the tail light, made it extra long to mount the extra brake strobe, and and then we (he) welded some re-enforcements/signal mounts and this is the result.
I was going to mount the strobe above but it looked kinda dorky. Below, it blocks the Lic Plate light pretty effectively, but when I thought about it, it's not like the plate was really visible anyway. If I get a ticket I'll add a couple of those LED lice plate bolts Harley guys use...
I'd discovered that HDB was making signals. I LOVE my HDB hand guards, it's the best made stuff I've ever seen, so I ordered the lights. They are basically hand made, but let me tell you, they are obviously tough. the rears are billet Aluminum, and for $40 per pair I feel one of the best things I've EVER bought. He could easily charge $100 a set for these beauties.
After a coat of Rust-Oleaum this is the finished result:
The wiring still needs a little more work but is usable for now
The HDB lights are VERY bright. Though they do suffer a bit because they are visible mostly straight back. So, in order of brightness, the DRC (meh)
The HDB signals, pretty dang good.
And then my Whelan police strobe light, which is kinda insanely annoyingly bright.
Like I said, HDB makes AMAZING stuff, My dash is pretty bling now as well with a custom top clamp, ignition relocation, iPod Remote and Powerlet outlet.
I've spent over $200 in CRAPPY lighting, that constantly seems to break. This time I'm hopeful it'll last. And if nothing else, at least these lights are visible!!!
Total cost for the tail light setup, $15 in Aluminum, $40 for Signals and $1.39 Pepsi for Roundstock
Here's a Vid that shows it all in action.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/7902758@N05/4409051257/
I also put in some real chafe protection... (not shown is a spiral loom I wrapped around this stuff.) I used prodigious amounts of very good ($$) marine Heat Shrink (it has Glue in it that melts and seals completely) And I decided to install bullet connectors so it can be removed if I need to do it the fiftieth time.
And generally cleaned up the rat's nest.
Here's a better shot of the whole unit:
I got pulled over by the most anally retentive cop in the whole world, He didn't notice my blatantly illegal brake flasher, and he made me turn on my signals to see if they worked...
I passed
In Baja, I broke the sub-frame, and the entire tail came with it.

So When I got back I set about fixing this mess once and for all. Fortunately In Baja I met a fellow inmate named Roundstock, and he graciously offered to help me fix my sub-frame. :clap Without his magical TIG skills I'd still be dealing with this crap. You gotta love bumping into someone at Alfonsina's and making a friend.
First we (he) welded and re-enforced the sub-frame.

Next we made a new fender support out of much thicker plate than husky but thinner than my disastrous one:

I was so excited to get the sub-frame fixed, I sort of forgot about the lighting!
I was going to re-mount mt DRC tail light, and maybe just put some U-Channel to extend it out to the back of the bike. But the DRC bracket was a bit cracked, and was looking like it wasn't gonna make it. I did find some U Channel the right size but McMaster Carr wanted like 40 bucks for it.
Roundstock sent me to a local place, where I found scrap U Channel exactly the right size for $2 a pound.
So we made a 90 degree bend in it to mount the tail light, made it extra long to mount the extra brake strobe, and and then we (he) welded some re-enforcements/signal mounts and this is the result.

I was going to mount the strobe above but it looked kinda dorky. Below, it blocks the Lic Plate light pretty effectively, but when I thought about it, it's not like the plate was really visible anyway. If I get a ticket I'll add a couple of those LED lice plate bolts Harley guys use...
I'd discovered that HDB was making signals. I LOVE my HDB hand guards, it's the best made stuff I've ever seen, so I ordered the lights. They are basically hand made, but let me tell you, they are obviously tough. the rears are billet Aluminum, and for $40 per pair I feel one of the best things I've EVER bought. He could easily charge $100 a set for these beauties.


After a coat of Rust-Oleaum this is the finished result:



The wiring still needs a little more work but is usable for now


The HDB lights are VERY bright. Though they do suffer a bit because they are visible mostly straight back. So, in order of brightness, the DRC (meh)
The HDB signals, pretty dang good.
And then my Whelan police strobe light, which is kinda insanely annoyingly bright.


Like I said, HDB makes AMAZING stuff, My dash is pretty bling now as well with a custom top clamp, ignition relocation, iPod Remote and Powerlet outlet.

I've spent over $200 in CRAPPY lighting, that constantly seems to break. This time I'm hopeful it'll last. And if nothing else, at least these lights are visible!!!
Total cost for the tail light setup, $15 in Aluminum, $40 for Signals and $1.39 Pepsi for Roundstock
Here's a Vid that shows it all in action.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/7902758@N05/4409051257/

I also put in some real chafe protection... (not shown is a spiral loom I wrapped around this stuff.) I used prodigious amounts of very good ($$) marine Heat Shrink (it has Glue in it that melts and seals completely) And I decided to install bullet connectors so it can be removed if I need to do it the fiftieth time.

And generally cleaned up the rat's nest.

Here's a better shot of the whole unit:

I got pulled over by the most anally retentive cop in the whole world, He didn't notice my blatantly illegal brake flasher, and he made me turn on my signals to see if they worked...
I passed
