• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

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    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Need tips on mechanics in Norway og Sweden for 1978 125wr

Joniver

Husqvarna
B Class
Anyone know someone who can do a enigne overhalling on an old 1978 husqvarna 125 wr. Preferably Sweden or Norway.

Thanks
 
You can do it. In the beginning I paid a dealer to do crank seals it cost me $150. I stripped the case down. I knew then and there I'm going to do it and learn.
I would take pictures while you disassemble it. To me the only thing that may seem hard at first is timing the gear selector. My only advice is to pre lube all your seals.
I'm sure we can walk you through it.
 
You can do it. In the beginning I paid a dealer to do crank seals it cost me $150. I stripped the case down. I knew then and there I'm going to do it and learn.
I would take pictures while you disassemble it. To me the only thing that may seem hard at first is timing the gear selector. My only advice is to pre lube all your seals.
I'm sure we can walk you through it.
I have started on the job. Doesnt seem to complicated. ALso, I have stripped down my Enfield a few times, and this looks easier. Thanks anyway. I will need all the help I can get from you guys!
 
Trust me it's simple. Place everything in order as you remove it. Disassemble it and place the parts in a row going to the right. To reassemble work from the right to the left.
Keep the gears on the two shafts.
Be aware of the clutch basket washers.
You can do this.
 
Trouble brewing...... im hopeless at this level. can do a top end no drama but open up them cases and I get dyslexia and go left to right??:eek: I always get an experienced man to do this bit. I know it sounds easy but someone who has done 50 cranks knows the little things that make a good job stay a good job.

on the third engine remove and case split, you begin to think you should have paid someone the first time...:thinking:

up to you if you have the confidence and desire to know the ins and out of the Husky two cycle engine, go for it.:thumbsup:
 
red ? is 1980 ! or 250 ?
hmm. There are so many things about my bike I dont understand. The engine is a disaster with cracks and broken thread all over. I am considering to buy a 250 engine on ebay for it. Maybe it is even the original for it?
 
red ? is 1980 ! or 250 ?
IMG_3934.jpgthe number on it is ML24602 My papers says WR125 1978. Do you think that is right? I havent measured the bore of the engine. It would explain a lot if I have bought wrong parts for this bike, because I still have a lot of trouble with it.
 
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