• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

need center cases

disonny

disonny

Husqvarna
AA Class
I need center cases for a 84 wr400 I picked up a couple months ago. Dam mice ruined mine. Are there other years that will work for this bike?
 
any 82-88 400-500 will work, plus 81 430...you can even use 250 cases if you grind out the crank web to make it big bore size..
how bad are your cases?
 
all the primary kick 82-88 cases swap, big bore to big bore. 86-88 have an extra bolt hole near kicker for strength, really only helps if you use the liquid cover as well..
according to the words under my picture to the left, i own an 87 430.
 
Most important. You really want to have the cases with the extra web/beams cast into the cases behind the Idle Gear. This
is the area that cracks the most. The idle gear shaft can act as a lever and push the top of case up and its damaged to ---- .
Husky added this in 83 for most of the big bores and the 250s later in the year. Later you will find a thicker casting at the engine
ID numbers location. Finally the extra mounting bolt lug was added as mentioned above.

I have a large stack of these broken cases - left over from savaging gears and cranks.
 
disonny said:
Will a 87 430xc work? do you know anything about the 87 430? Good motor?
Click to expand...
The dual shock models have a 12mm swingarm pivot bolt while the mono shock ones have a 14mm bolt/rod whatever you wish to call it.
87-88 had some improvements but in my opinion some cost cutting. The case near the sprocket for the chain no longer has the little plate that comes off.

I have made inserts to go smaller, I would not recommend sleeving it down as the thing that looks like a piston wristpin the thing the bearings for the swingarm ride on puts some loads there. Generally I find the rear of the engine for the mono shock has issues, the insert gets loose or worse. Keep that in mind.

Make some inserts for the rear, I think you would need to swap out the top end. The rods/studs for the cylinder should be the same if both liquid cooled. I am pretty sure the inserts are no longer available at least through Halls, I have tried to get the 14mm ones which continued for the older single cam made in italy and no luck. I bought at least one years ago, not sure which size. I think the outer diameter is not all the same throughout 82-88.
 
good point fran forgot about the rear case inserts for swinger..these would need swapped over for dual shock/single shock or vice versa. they can be a pain at times.
 
I discovered over the weekend while running mine in, the sleeves in the rear of the cases are loose, not too bad on the clutch side, but quite bad on the drive/ignition side, what fixes are you guys using to rectify this, I can make some new bushes but they appear to be hardened steel, could a different metal like a high quality alloy be used? I assume that they are an interference fit, so heating the cases is required, I really don't want to pull this motor down but I suspect the cases will need to be split in order to do the job properly.
Tony.
 
that sucks, if they are loose they will likely come out without splitting the cases. i havent run into this too much, a few times i cleaned everything well and epoxied them back in. i dont think they work loose if the swinger is kept greased and the swinger bolt is kept tight.
 
You are dead right Justin, I pulled the engine out last night, one sleeve almost fell out complete with shin stock wrapped around it (bodgy baskets) and the other came out easily, I was thinking more along the lines of splitting the cases for accurately boring a round hole and heating and inserting some new oversize sleeves, what are your thoughts?
 
that would probably be the best way to repair it if there is enough meat left in the cases. are the cases otherwise real nice? i wonder if it would be better to bore them left together or split and remove everything. being pressed together may keep things true?

here in the states it may be easier to just run another set of cases but if yours are in good shape other than the swinger mount, may be a good idea to fix it.
 
Good point, I hadn't considered that. Rather than hijack this thread, I'll start a new topic. Thanks for your insight though.
Tony.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top