• 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

250-500cc My WR250 likes to stall with the clutch in

Acmesalute76

Acmesalute76

Husqvarna
B Class
I find if I'm riding technical stuff and pull in the clutch all the way, a lot of times it will have a tendency to slowly stall. I turned up the idle but when it's in gear with the clutch in it doesn't seem to be much higher. If I rev the motor the bike doesn't go anywhere, so it's not dragging, but it seems to be enough friction to make it want to stall. I've been running 10W40 conventional motorcycle oil in the gearbox. I tried Rotella when I first got it and it made the clutch drag ten times worse. Should I try changing oils or is there an adjustment that will help?
 
I had a similar problem with my GasGas but maybe not as bad. I switched from Rotella to O'Reilly brand ATF+4 which is a full synthetic trans fluid (about a 20w oil according to O'Reilly's website) and it helped quite a bit. The only bad I have heard of using ATF is in extreme heat desert racing with long term wide open throttle situations and the ATF mentioned was not +4 but rather regular ATF. At less than $4 a quart ATF+4 is worth a try. If I was racing in the desert conditions mentioned I would use 80w Gear Saver.
 
As the clutch heats up ya loose lever. After a long sliiiip up a hill or something ya usualy got zero lever left and even when pulled all the way in the bike still chugs along.

I try to remember to flick the star-wheel on the perch a few times before the tight stuff then flick it back (if) when it opens up. That's what them things is there for and it's awesome Husky put them there, saves a lot of stalls on mid-hill saves etc. etc. when yer gassed, yer goggles are fogged, arms are pumped and ya need a do-over.
 
My '08 WR250 had a similar issue. I switched to Valvoline "4-Stroke" Synthetic 10w40 (not automotive oil) and it fixed the problem. I found it at Wal-Mart for about $6.00 a quart.
 
Take the clutch cover off and adjust your cable there if you are starting to run out of adjustments on the lever...plus it's a good time to inspect your friction plates or for binding.

OR

You could install a rekluse auto clutch:thumbsup:
 
I had a look at the clutch not too long ago when I had to fix the issue shifting into second (it was a loose piece in the shift mechanism, and a couple other people have had the same problem). The clutch and plates still look brand new. Being that the problem was affected by the Rotella I am thinking I will try to find that Valvoline oil at Wally World. It's not such a bad problem, and it only affects me when riding really slow, technical stuff, but when it happens, it sure is annoying.
 
I switched oils to a semi synthetic, and it seems to have cured the problem. I bet if I go full syn it will be even better.
 
You need to set your push rod so that there is just a touch of play in it before it contacts the pressure plate and adjust your cable so there is almost no free play in it at the lever. If you search you can find a thread where I went through this procedure.
 
I finally got a MOTION PRO custom made cable for my bike, like several on here have talked about, and it's WAY better than the stock or MP's standard cable. Pull is smooth and there is little to no draw up in the housing, so all the movement translates to disengagement.

Very good stuff. :thumbsup:
 
I installed a Motion Pro Terminator yesterday. It definitely works better than the stocker, but it seems to require a little more effort for some reason.
 
I bought a Terminator cable figuring I'd keep my stock used cable for a spare and I could not see nor feel any difference. I bought my bike new in the crate so it made me wonder if some of the stock cables are better than others. Oh well, I have a spare now and that pretty much guarantees I won't need it.... unless I leave it at home.
 
Juice it up and I'll bet it feels better. ;) I use Royal Purples multi purpose lube on mine and it feels really smooth.
 
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