• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

My WR low compression explanation

84scrambler

84scrambler

Husqvarna
Pro Class
Here goes, I have been meaning to do this for a while now sorry it took so long guys.
After a long exhausting rebuild of my 79 wr something was just not right. So I started investigating and I found that some clown put a different crank and rod in my motor and put it back together with the original crank seals . The crank (clutch side) had a smaller diameter and I never caught on to it when I rebuilt it before . Well , major leak because my crank is 28mm and my seal was a 30mm so split the cases again and put in a 28mm seal and put back together and then it would not start. Found out the motor had no compression because of a rod that was to short and it had a tight crank seal , so no start any more that it was all sealed up. Split cases again and have some pics for you all to ride thru.
photo 1 (4)rebuild1.JPG
Here is the old crank on the left and the correct crank on the right.
photo 2 (4)rebuild 2.JPG
Here is the new seal that I finally got to install. Thank you for the info on the viton seals Darty.
photo 3 (1)rebuild3.JPG
Case split again...
photo 1 (5)rebuild4.JPG
found a perfect fit with this socket too. 1 and 1/2 in. taps it in real nice.
 
Here is the second new seal and now back to a 30mm now that I have a 30mm sized crank to fit it.
photo 2 (5)rebuild5.JPG
After doing this for the third time I decided to take pics and keep some of the tools that I used in the process.
photo 2 (7)rebuild7.JPG
I used two pieces of a pipe that were cut off and the wrench goes in there too as a spacer to pull the crank in. Started with one then two then add the wrench and washer and by that time its back in.
photo 3 (2)rebuild8.JPG
After timing the trans in forth gear and checking it like 25 times I greased all the tops so it will squeeze back together . I think it worked because it went right together with ease.
photo 1 (8)rebuild9.JPG
Sorry for the crappy pic, I probably was so excited that the piston actually came to the top this time. If you go back and search low compression wr or something like that you can see the old pics with the short rod and how high it came to.
 
Got her back together and ready to install. Did a quick leak down test and it passed after it gave me a scare , the dam intake had a small leak.
photo 2 (8)rebuild10.JPG

photo 3 (3)rebuild11.JPG
Does not take long when you finally get to this point just remembering which way you routed things. Thank god I took pics before I took it apart.
photo 4 (1)rebuild12.JPG

photo (4)rebuild13.JPG
Yesterday was the third time I have got to ride it and it runs great finally. I did a compression test and it read 175 psi the same as my other 250's I was really happy about that too. This was my first case split ever and I got lots of practice (3 times) I was pretty nervous at first but I think if you can do a proper top end rebuild that you could split your cases as well with the right tools . I made my splitter and it worked really nice and I made a flywheel holder that connects into the foot peg for torquing your crank nuts. I had to buy the flywheel puller tho.
Wanted to give a special thanks to a fellow Husky guru in Canada for all the great parts and info too.
Hope this helps some one that may be going through the same process as I did .
I plan on some video sometime soon , I just have to figure out how that works and I will try to get some cool shots to you guys.
 
nice work, always satisfying to figure it out and get it done yourself. bike looks great, love the tank.
 
ITS THAT MANHOLE COVER OF A FLYWHEEL THAT SUCKERS HUGE.. IF YOU EVER NEED A KIDNEY PLEASE LET ME KNOW
 
my first bike and husky was a 79 wr250, learned alot from that machine...i still have the frame and most of the rest...no front end tho and the center cases are worn out...low and narrow with the big motoplat, great woods bike but also great in the mud and nasty stuff. ah, the memories.
 
Still have the forks their a bit rusty tho and they seem really short now .
Ya, I'll look for some or just take more.
 
Sweet bike scrambler.....Fine work. It's very satisfying doing the work yourself isn't it. The help I have received from the members on here have helped me through some things I've never attempted before.
 
Yes it is so nice to get a project completed. Although it takes so much longer than you always figure ,know matter what there's always something that comes out of no where and stumps you. (at least for me there is) lol
 
Nice when a project comes together then we ride it. The late '70's to '86 husks is my area.

My second husky was a '81 250cr what a screamer.
 
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