• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

my project bike carbueration?

Bigbill

Bigbill

Husqvarna
Pro Class
Ok on my first project bike of 2014.

She's a 420 cylinder on a cr tranny. I'm torn between what 38mm carb?

Round slide 38mm? Flat slide 38mm? Or ?????
 
almost any carb other than a gurtner or bing would be a good choice. the mikuni vm roundslide is a legend and you obviously know they can be very agreeable and run great. after purchasing and tuning/getting familiar with a lectron, i would never pay money for anything but. they really work well and meter very accurately. the adjustable power jet they come with and no need to replace or buy mains, pilots, needles, needle jets or keep a stock of them is the deal-sealer for me. when you order one they will build it to the exact length and diameters you need so it fits perfect.
Photo280.jpg
 
I agree on the Lectron, it is not well known, but it is far superior to any other carb on the market. If you do not go with a Lectron, just get a standard round slide Mikuni VM. I am assuming you intend to race vintage on this bike, the only Mikuni flat slide that is legal is the original TM like the one that came on the '84 250CR. It does not perform better than the VM and it is much harder to tune.
 
lectron are legal since they were made back then right? one drawback of the lectron is that i dont believe that they have as good as "feel" as the vm. the vm has a heavy slide and is very smooth. the lectron with medium spring is very light with a very light slide. i have switched to the heavy spring to create some good snap to the throttle. that and a drain plug are my only complaints of the lectron. the extra snap is very useful on a big bore that responds to small throttle openings.
 
Twist the needle to lean up or richen and your done yes very easy to jet and one of the best if not the best carb in the world!
If yor thinking of it kellys just designed a fatter rod for big bores a 3-2xl just request this if you order the carb.
 
There are no jets Bill !
As Justintendo said above.
I have one on my 390WR, and I am going to put another on the Auto, and maybe one on the twinshock KLX. I would not buy anything else. Yes, they are expensive, but what price for quality.
 
Wow it has a adjustable flow screw finally no jetting. Count me in.
My project 420 husky just went up to $2k possibly in New parts. Ill have a great running bike. I'm thinking, new carb, new pipe, rebuilt motor.
 
Well I loved my last three that I had. I ran the snots out of one of them. I really liked the '79 390cr. I may clean up and match the ports, port it to the husky specs. Add a new pipe and exhaust plus the carb. But this one is a 420 I think she will be another rocket. I have the newer case with the 430 crank so maybe it's a 430? I have a line on an older case the 390 came in. I would rather the older case with the 420. This is going to be a long winter project plus piling up the parts. I usually do the engines first while the paint on the frame and swing arm is drying. I have the correct olins for the frame too. For now I'm gathering info on what changes I need to make. I think the lectron carb is the right way to fly.
 
theres lots of info on here about them. the main complaint is that they can soften the little hits you get in a powerband. i kinda like this as you can lay into the throttle more and get better traction. these are taper bored and have a very nicely machined airbell. top end will rip! lower 50% of fueling is mostly controlled by the metering rod, upper 50% is mostly the power jet. the power jet is adjusted by just turning the screw and it is quite sensitive (in a good way). the metering rod is adjusted much like a needle, only it screws in or out quarter turn at a time. thats it! or you can swap metering rods. lectrons are able to atomize the fuel very well, i think this is one of their main virtues. the cost is a little over 400 but that includes being machined to fit perfect and comes with a throttle and cable.

p.s the owner kevin is a great guy to do business with and its not too hard to reach him on the phone. thats a nice feature if you are having issues. he knows the carbs and theres probably a 85% chance that when he builds the carb, it will have the perfect rod already in it. lectron fluid dyno tests every carb before it leaves their shop. i like doing business with guys like that. they appreciate your money and want to make their product work its best for you
 
The lectron actually smoothes out the full force of the hit? Making the power up smoother and easier to control and handle? While the power is still there?
 
Yes. Lectron carbs are the carb of choice for drag bike racers because they make more HP than any other, but they also give a bike the smoothest most usable power at the same time.
 
I think the reason it "smoothes" out the hits is because it has no jets or circuits to alternate between. As a normal carb moves from one circuit to another the mixture changes, and it is never spot on for the conditions/revs/load. The pilot jet may be good, but as it transitions to the needle it will never be spot on. It will hit a point where it is, but then it moves on again. Just my thoughts.
 
You may be right, I dont know why they work, but they do. The first Lecron I bought was for my '77 Penton/Ktm 400, that bike hurt me every time I rode it, it had a brutal hit so big that it was a handful on a motocross track and it was unrideable and dangerous in the woods. I put a Lectron on it and transformed the bike, it is still brutally fast, but it smoothed it out so much its actually fun (and safe) to ride in the woods now.
 
grouty said:
I think the reason it "smoothes" out the hits is because it has no jets or circuits to alternate between. As a normal carb moves from one circuit to another the mixture changes, and it is never spot on for the conditions/revs/load. The pilot jet may be good, but as it transitions to the needle it will never be spot on. It will hit a point where it is, but then it moves on again. Just my thoughts.
Click to expand...
i think you are spot on.
 
The stock 79 390cr has a lot of hit besides rear wheel spinning, ripping power. The only time the rear wheel stops spinning is when I let off the shift. Then she goes back to ripping again. You can tell where the 390 goes or where I have been.

Now will I lose all the hit and earth spinning power with the lectron? Our days are shorter when I ride the 390.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top