• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

  • 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Austria - About 2014 & Newer
     TE = 2st Enduro & TC = 2st Cross

TE/TC My One Fiddy

John Bunker

John Bunker

Husqvarna
A Class
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First off let me say I’m 64 years old and have been riding dirt bikes since 1969, over the years I’ve owned 7 Huskys, 2 Husabergs and 2 KTM’s. Last year I bought my 8th Husky a TE150. In the last year I’ve been replying to other people’s posts and this will be my very first thread that I’ve started. I might make some mistakes along the way so please correct me if I do.

I plan on posting the changes or the personalizing changes I’ve made to the bike in the last year. I work in a machine shop, so some of the changes even though are small and simple to me might be beyond the scope of some of the members. I’ll start from a year ago when the bike was new so some changes might have already been addressed by other threads.


New bike at shop

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We bought the bike the end of Dec 2016 from Championship Power Sports in Ohio, there was not much riding until spring so I started with the carb. Fab up this little adjuster to check and reset the float height also this float bowl nut with a barbed fitting to see the actually fuel height in the bowl.

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Yeah Husky! When I was 18 I had the 1978 Husky CR250 and CR390 MX bikes. I was considering making one of those float height testers. Cam.
 
I wanted to use some fork bleeders but they would be in the way if you had to turn the preload knobs. I cut the two wings off and milled a hex on the adjusters.

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I get it now. Had to look twice. You milled the preload adjuster down to have wrench flats. Nice, and makes sense as you dont have to adjust them all that much (I think). My bike has the AER. Not much room on top of the fork cap to do anything without raising the bar clamps. Cam.
 
Here’s a tip I’ve been doing lately. In Michigan we cut our handlebars down to 29 - 31 inches to get through the trees quicker. Cutting the ends off of your bars doesn’t leave much room for your controls so I cut material out of the center and plug and weld it back together.

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The stock 150 is a quiet bike but doesn’t come with a spark arrestor, I added a downturn tip to this EE spark arrestor endcap to help direct the sound down towards the ground.

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I tried working on the Mikuni carburetor when riding season started, made a drilled out float bowl nut and played with the jetting, (Carb Parts Warehouse, JD Jetting) but could never get it to run correctly. I gave up and bought a Lectron from Slavens.

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handlebars: I'd bet that between the clamps is the place with the least amount of force on the bars. do you have a picture of the plug you use or some ballpark dimensions (ID of the handlebars, got it... how about length? super short or very long?)

clean work.
 
Trenchcoat85 said:
handlebars: I'd bet that between the clamps is the place with the least amount of force on the bars. do you have a picture of the plug you use or some ballpark dimensions (ID of the handlebars, got it... how about length? super short or very long?)

clean work.
Click to expand...

Sorry no pictures or dimensions on the work. What I did after cutting the center out was bore the ID until cleanup (about .01) and made a sleeve to press fit into both ends, about 1.5 long so about .75 pressed into each end and the center of sleeve was drilled out so the wall thickness was about the same as the bars. Milled the two center cut bar ends flat and put a large chamfer on them for welding. The bars will never break here. :-)
 
This is my cut down handlebar setup. I’ve been using Oury street grips for years, the thick pillow blocks helps my old hands.

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Ran most of the summer with the RK head and Lectron, the carb ran Ok and will give you better gas mileage but I felt there’s still some room for improvements. Lectrons do not have a slow speed circuit so the engine was a little flat down low. This might not be too much of a problem with a 250 or 300 but was pretty noticeable on my 150. Mid September I picked up a Keihin PWK from JD Jetting (part number - JDKH38), best improvement I made so far.

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About the same time as the carb upgrade I replaced the barrel and control arms for the power valve with parts from the 2018 model; this also seemed to improve the throttle response.

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I was happy with the way the Keihin was working but being a dumb machinist who likes to tinker, I moved on and installed the Torque Wing from Thunder Products. The plate works as claimed so I was able to reduce jet sizes, getting better response off of idle.

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