AUSKY
Husqvarna
AA Class
After almost a year my WR125 project is 95% complete, with only a bit more electrical work on the rear end, some roadworthy items & rego to complete the job. The many, many hours & thousands of dollars that these projects consume is something that you can't fathom when you first consider taking it all on. I was warned by many, thank you & sometimes I wish I'd headed their warning after I started, Perseverance is the key!! & well worth it in the end as you can see. I have never owned a 2 stroke before so a lot of this has been alien to me & a good way to learn.
All the parts on the bike are genuine Husqvarna parts from many different years & models. I have sourced parts from all over the world on Internet & EBAY a hell of a lot cheaper than here in Australia, if you can get them!! I had no idea how hard to get parts for 1995/96 & earlier models are without going new OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer). The internet is a wonderful tool for research, ideas & inspiration without it I don?t think she would have gotten this far. I bought a lot of OEM parts that I needed through the local Husky dealer HOLESHOT MOTO'S who have been really helpful & encouraging. Most parts are still available OEM.
I picked up a good CR125 2000 engine complete but it wouldn't fit into the frame, in 1997 Husqvarna changed the configuration of the power valve assembly & cylinder, from a rotary power valve (Lamellar Valve) to the same guillotine style as used in today's 125's which sticks out in front a lot more & hits the 1996 frame, parts from 1997 on are lot easier to find than earlier models, if you want to do one up, go 1997 or later, so much easier sourcing parts. I haven't found a frame to suit, YET!.
When I split the cases on the engines it was interesting to find that the 1996 model crankcases match up perfectly to the 2000 model crankcases, the only difference I can see is main bearings, they are smaller on the 2000. The internal gear shafts have different spline configurations, between the years & won't allow individual gears to be swapped onto the others shafts but they can be changed over as another complete gearbox. As I now have done, due to a tooth missing on the 2000 1st gear. Internal dimensions of the cases seem to be the same. The clutch casing has changed to suit the new power valve assembly which makes it easier access the power valve & route the exhaust to the right, not the left like the 1996 & earlier models. The Clutch & the Clutch & Stator covers are the same & have bolted right on to the 1996. The 2000 head was machined to give a better burn & squish volume & also went straight on. Reed block is swappable; Crank/rod, Pistons & gudgeons are different sizes & won't swap into each other's cases. All I need to do now is work out how to stroke it to a 144cc. HAHA. I have tried to keep it as original as I could but with a bit of a modern look. What do you think?
I was quite surprised to find how well she goes, being a 125 the bottom end is sluggish & the top end SCREAMS!! WOO HOO!! At 92 kg's she is a ball to ride & handles surprisingly well when pushed but is also plush enough for the trails, I haven't tackled any decent jumps or big hills yet. It is great for in between the trees being so light although the transports are a little slow. I really like the ability to adjust both compression & rebound while riding, as one leg does the compression & the other covers the rebound & adjustment for both is on top of the forks within easy reach. The bike is quite tall for a 125 & it stands 40 mm higher than my 2008 TE510 but settles down when you are sitting on it. I've geared it WR standard 13/50 & it will do 100 kmh which is good for me & a lot of the tracks around Cairns. I've finally worked out how to adjust the power valve to move the power around to where I like it with a little more torque in midrange & still plenty of top end. I'd love to experiment with a Kehin PWK for better bottom end.
The first trail ride almost never got going due to a new clutch adjuster hurriedly put on the night before, which left me with no drive. After removing the offending item & a bit of adjustment & she was off. The big downfall of this ride was the noise that this thing puts out. It didn't come with a muffler when I picked it up & I ended up getting one from FUGI off a 2005 CR125 that I had to modify the pipe to fit the 1996. You would have sworn blood was flowing out of the ears of the boys by some of the comments they made, HAHA. Since then I have found a muffler from a 2007 WR250 that goes on, thanks Lance & dropped the noise considerably & a bit of power as well, so it will need a bit of TIG surgery to restore power without being too noisy. Pics show the CR muffler.
I think I need to ride it a bit more to be able to dial in the suspension better & crispen up the jetting to get more out of it & learn to use the clutch properly. HAHAHA. I can't wait to get her registered & on the road & a few club rides!!!
A 1996 WR 125 on the road around town is certainly going to be unique.
She has done exactly what I wanted her to do ?
To put some more FUN back into my riding?. YEE HARR!!!
Thanks for sharing this experience with me it has been a cracker. What do you think?
Regards
Damo.
All the parts on the bike are genuine Husqvarna parts from many different years & models. I have sourced parts from all over the world on Internet & EBAY a hell of a lot cheaper than here in Australia, if you can get them!! I had no idea how hard to get parts for 1995/96 & earlier models are without going new OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer). The internet is a wonderful tool for research, ideas & inspiration without it I don?t think she would have gotten this far. I bought a lot of OEM parts that I needed through the local Husky dealer HOLESHOT MOTO'S who have been really helpful & encouraging. Most parts are still available OEM.
I picked up a good CR125 2000 engine complete but it wouldn't fit into the frame, in 1997 Husqvarna changed the configuration of the power valve assembly & cylinder, from a rotary power valve (Lamellar Valve) to the same guillotine style as used in today's 125's which sticks out in front a lot more & hits the 1996 frame, parts from 1997 on are lot easier to find than earlier models, if you want to do one up, go 1997 or later, so much easier sourcing parts. I haven't found a frame to suit, YET!.
When I split the cases on the engines it was interesting to find that the 1996 model crankcases match up perfectly to the 2000 model crankcases, the only difference I can see is main bearings, they are smaller on the 2000. The internal gear shafts have different spline configurations, between the years & won't allow individual gears to be swapped onto the others shafts but they can be changed over as another complete gearbox. As I now have done, due to a tooth missing on the 2000 1st gear. Internal dimensions of the cases seem to be the same. The clutch casing has changed to suit the new power valve assembly which makes it easier access the power valve & route the exhaust to the right, not the left like the 1996 & earlier models. The Clutch & the Clutch & Stator covers are the same & have bolted right on to the 1996. The 2000 head was machined to give a better burn & squish volume & also went straight on. Reed block is swappable; Crank/rod, Pistons & gudgeons are different sizes & won't swap into each other's cases. All I need to do now is work out how to stroke it to a 144cc. HAHA. I have tried to keep it as original as I could but with a bit of a modern look. What do you think?
I was quite surprised to find how well she goes, being a 125 the bottom end is sluggish & the top end SCREAMS!! WOO HOO!! At 92 kg's she is a ball to ride & handles surprisingly well when pushed but is also plush enough for the trails, I haven't tackled any decent jumps or big hills yet. It is great for in between the trees being so light although the transports are a little slow. I really like the ability to adjust both compression & rebound while riding, as one leg does the compression & the other covers the rebound & adjustment for both is on top of the forks within easy reach. The bike is quite tall for a 125 & it stands 40 mm higher than my 2008 TE510 but settles down when you are sitting on it. I've geared it WR standard 13/50 & it will do 100 kmh which is good for me & a lot of the tracks around Cairns. I've finally worked out how to adjust the power valve to move the power around to where I like it with a little more torque in midrange & still plenty of top end. I'd love to experiment with a Kehin PWK for better bottom end.
The first trail ride almost never got going due to a new clutch adjuster hurriedly put on the night before, which left me with no drive. After removing the offending item & a bit of adjustment & she was off. The big downfall of this ride was the noise that this thing puts out. It didn't come with a muffler when I picked it up & I ended up getting one from FUGI off a 2005 CR125 that I had to modify the pipe to fit the 1996. You would have sworn blood was flowing out of the ears of the boys by some of the comments they made, HAHA. Since then I have found a muffler from a 2007 WR250 that goes on, thanks Lance & dropped the noise considerably & a bit of power as well, so it will need a bit of TIG surgery to restore power without being too noisy. Pics show the CR muffler.
I think I need to ride it a bit more to be able to dial in the suspension better & crispen up the jetting to get more out of it & learn to use the clutch properly. HAHAHA. I can't wait to get her registered & on the road & a few club rides!!!
A 1996 WR 125 on the road around town is certainly going to be unique.
She has done exactly what I wanted her to do ?
To put some more FUN back into my riding?. YEE HARR!!!
Thanks for sharing this experience with me it has been a cracker. What do you think?
Regards
Damo.
