• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

My 1st Auto

dumpbear

Husqvarna
AA Class
Well i bought my 1st auto yesterday it is 98% there.Mice ate the seat and i see they have the silencer packed so its time to start taking it apart.The motor seems to have good compression i am going to pull it a get it on the work bench probably going to be asking alot of questions as i have no manuals on this baby and it being my 1st one.The tank is 100% dent free the guy i bought it from must have thought i was nuts the way i was feeling the tank over feeling for dents.The inside is pretty rusty do you guys have any good rust removing secrets for in the tank.Thanks in advance for your help You guys are the best.
Tom
 

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I have good luck with Sherwin Williams automotive metal conditioner ,twin etch and triple etch. I'm glad you bought that bike it as for sale for awhile and I was trying not to buy another air cooled auto ,(I have four) only a 430 water pumper next . I'm fairly close to you if you need any help
Al
 
Here is a link to gearbox strip down, it is for a 258, but the 420 has the same box, all the other Auto manuals I have found refer to the refer to the 360/390 gearbox which has several quite important differences, the rest of the bike is just good old Husky and the standard manuals will suffice!
http://www.teamnorrland.se/Renovera AE.htm
 
It seems to be all there Tom.
For a cheap rust remover try using molasses. You can buy a gallon for a few $. Mix about 8 or 10 parts of water with the molasses. A good stir and pour into the tank. Don't forget to seal off the petcock. Leave it for a couple of weeks while you are doing the rest of the bike. Give it a shake every few days. Empty out and see ! Stubborn rust is best dealt with old nuts etc before the molasses. Rinse out with water, followed by a good swill with some gas and old 2 stroke mix. Job done. There are loads of other ways as well.
Feel free to ask about the auto box. There are loads of 'Auto Nuts' here :-)
 
I have good luck with Sherwin Williams automotive metal conditioner ,twin etch and triple etch. I'm glad you bought that bike it as for sale for awhile and I was trying not to buy another air cooled auto ,(I have four) only a 430 water pumper next . I'm fairly close to you if you need any help
Al

thanks Al i will give it a try
 
It seems to be all there Tom.
For a cheap rust remover try using molasses. You can buy a gallon for a few $. Mix about 8 or 10 parts of water with the molasses. A good stir and pour into the tank. Don't forget to seal off the petcock. Leave it for a couple of weeks while you are doing the rest of the bike. Give it a shake every few days. Empty out and see ! Stubborn rust is best dealt with old nuts etc before the molasses. Rinse out with water, followed by a good swill with some gas and old 2 stroke mix. Job done. There are loads of other ways as well.
Feel free to ask about the auto box. There are loads of 'Auto Nuts' here :-)

I have a couple of other tanks i am going to try molasses on one of them i dont know if i can eat another molasses cookie if it eats out rust!:lol:
 
Does anyone have a source for engine seals for this 420ae ive found the gasket set but no seals thanks
 
Seals are commercially available Tom. The size will be on the old ones. Make sure you get "Viton" ones. You will need to split the cases to replace the left side. Right side can be done by removing the flywheel and ignition back plate. Check for wear where the seals run on the crank. If you can feel a depression with your finger nail, replace the crank stub. Otherwise it will suck air.
 
Aquarium gravel breaks down the rust and will allow Evaporust or any other metal conditioner do a much better job of neutralizing the rust
 
im a tough bastard, i threw a lot of my old nuts and bolts out in a real fair dinkum clean up.:mad:
 
Hey guys grouty and others recommend univis hvi26 but it doesn't seem to be available in the US what do you guys run in yours.
Tom
 
I googled the univis and came up with a interchange chart to a shell part number and got a five gallon bucket from the local napa works really well. most important thing is to change it every good ride .I run some of the vintage enduros and have had no problems
 
I googled the univis and came up with a interchange chart to a shell part number and got a five gallon bucket from the local napa works really well. most important thing is to change it every good ride .I run some of the vintage enduros and have had no problems

Whats the oil your using from NAPA?
Bill
 
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