• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

My '11 TE310 decided it wanted an oil change

mnb

mnb

Husqvarna
Pro Class
Funny thing was, that morning, I was thinking, "Wow, I'm over due for an oil change…"

At the end of the last loop of the day, I pulled into camp and someone told me I was seriously leaking oil. At first I thought they could see it on the engine or something and I was concerned of course, but the indicated there was a steady stream coming from the bottom of the bike. :eek:

I got off the bike and held it upright (after shutting it down) to check the oil level and it was good. I'd just finished a long loop, nothign nasty, no falls. After some inspecting, it appears the pipe clamp on the rear hose (where the tube filter is) was a little loose and the hose may not have been fitted properly. Odd, I've put 20 hours on it since the last oil change and it's been fine… I wonder if during our rememberance of our fallen riding friend (A Moment of Braaap), that my choice to bounce it off the rev limiter a couple of times (and not all that shyly I might add) might have created extra pressure? The bike showed no signs of trouble at all prior to the leak and I'm not one to get anywhere near the rev limit normally.

It's a pain to get to the hose and with a bum knee and a back that complains when I'm hunched over for more than 20 seconds, I wound up not riding the next day. I need to get the bike up higher to work on it, but a couple knowledgeable guys with better backs poked around on it and I think it's just a loose hose. One thought the hose looked flared, but I think that's just cuz it's squished over the fitting.

Anyone ever have this problem before? I'm reluctant to heavily torque a pipe clamp, but I wasn't timid. It held for a long time...
 
The end of the hose gets flared out from removing the hose during oil changes. Some folks have added a piece of heat shrink over the hose to help stiffen it. Glad you caught it before melting the engine.
 
street2dirt said:
i woulda layed that bad boy on it's side & fixed it b4 missing a day of ridin' :D
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It was my first day back after a wrist injury. I cannot work on bikes laid on the ground due to knee and back issues. Feel free to come down and fix my bike for me next time! ;)



richard kersten said:
You don t remove the hose during oil changes ?
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You're not supposed to according to the workshop manual. Just loosen the clamp so you can unscrew the idiotic bolt and retrieve the tube filter.

This setup is beyond hokey. HORRIBLE design. Plus it's a pain in the ass to get to.
 
Boogie said:
Your bike was trying to tell you.... 20 hours is way too long between oil changes!
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I have to agree, you really need to reduce the hours between changes if you want that little motor to last, 20 hours your asking for trouble.
 
It's much easier to remove the oil line so you can get a box end wrench over the fitting to avoid stripping it off. AMHIK I can change the oil in no time now but the first time had me cussing a few times. If you follow the shop manual you will have a difficult time IMO
 
Freaky said:
I have to agree, you really need to reduce the hours between changes if you want that little motor to last, 20 hours your asking for trouble.
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Book says 8-16 hours for race use (mx vs enduro). I don't race. 20hrs seems more than reasonable. It doesn't get ridden very hard. And certainly not as often as I'd like. Especially this last year…

reveille said:
It's much easier to remove the oil line so you can get a box end wrench over the fitting to avoid stripping it off. AMHIK I can change the oil in no time now but the first time had me cussing a few times. If you follow the shop manual you will have a difficult time IMO
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Heh, figures. I figured it said loosen instead of remove for a good reason (although I wasn't sure why, I thought maybe it was difficult to put the hose back on?). Thanks for the tip!
 
If this is the screen filter do you ever find anything on it? I usually do those the 2nd oil change athen check them every once in awhile because there is never anything on them.
 
Looks like the hose is messed up. I've tightened the crap out of the pipe clamp and the hose can still spin on the drain plug. I can't find it in the parts manual. I can find the drain plug and filter, but I dunno where the hose is.




Motosportz said:
If this is the screen filter do you ever find anything on it? I usually do those the 2nd oil change athen check them every once in awhile because there is never anything on them.
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How do you drain the oil without pulling the plug that holds the filter? If you have to pull the plug, the filter is right there, it makes no sense not to check it.
 
On my 2012 TE310: installed the TE250 oil drain plug (no hose bib). Rerouted oil return hose, plugged with bolt and hose clamp. Now, based upon 2 oil changes, about 1/2 teaspoon apparently clear water accumulates in hose each time, no oil blow by into airbox.
If I stick with this, will shorten return hose, which is currently ziptied to left lower frame rail, with skid plate off. I am not racing so am not pounding motor.
 
Phil Lamb said:
On my 2012 TE310: installed the TE250 oil drain plug (no hose bib). Rerouted oil return hose, plugged with bolt and hose clamp. Now, based upon 2 oil changes, about 1/2 teaspoon apparently clear water accumulates in hose each time, no oil blow by into airbox.
If I stick with this, will shorten return hose, which is currently ziptied to left lower frame rail, with skid plate off. I am not racing so am not pounding motor.
Click to expand...


If you use a drain plug and disable the hose, why use the hose at all? Just plug the attach point at the other end. But doesn't this disable the tube filter?

Also, I only see one drain plug in the parts catalog. It does look like there's no hose bib in the graphic, but those graphics are not reliable generally. Did they change the bike to NOT use the hose?
 
mnb. The 250 drain plug is different than the 310. Bill's in Salem, Ore has them. The cylindrical screen still fits in; don't know if it is still functional. I have not plugged the lowest/rear most frame hole because I want to see what accumulates in the return hose. If I start getting enough oil that lubrication may be jeopardized, will go back to stock. If I continue getting what appears to be water, presumably from condensation, I will probably install a shorter return hose, keeping the original stock length as a spare. I prefer to occasionally drain off the condensation rather than return it to the oil.
The 250 does not have a return line, hence different plug. Boring and stroking the 250 to a 310 apparently created more top end pressure, which this hose gizzy alleviates.
 
Mobil1 0W40/300-500 miles (30 miles 1st change, 100% clutch safe). Stainless steel oil filters maximize the oil flow in the 310's helping them run cooler and last longer.
 
Tinken said:
Mobil1 0W40/300-500 miles (30 miles 1st change, 100% clutch safe). Stainless steel oil filters maximize the oil flow in the 310's helping them run cooler and last longer.
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I have been considering using a stainless oil filter are these facts - runs cooler lasts longer?
 
reveille said:
It's much easier to remove the oil line so you can get a box end wrench over the fitting to avoid stripping it off. AMHIK I can change the oil in no time now but the first time had me cussing a few times. If you follow the shop manual you will have a difficult time IMO
Click to expand...

Yep, agree.

Motosportz said:
If this is the screen filter do you ever find anything on it? I usually do those the 2nd oil change athen check them every once in awhile because there is never anything on them.
Click to expand...

I found some gasket goo on it first oil change, then nothing.
---
Husky added a sump plug on the 2013 x lite engines, so my schedule is:
Castrol Power 1 GPS Motorcycle Oil - 10W-40
Change oil every 250klms
Filter every second oil change
Check the screen behind the hose barb fitting every fourth change
 
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