Motosportz damper oil change

[Joliet]

I remember talking to Kelly a couple of years ago about changing oil in the damper, but I have forgot (shocker). I think he said to take out a particular 2 screws, submerge the unit in the oil and work the arm back and forth while submerged, then re-install the screws. Does this sound correct, and which 2 screws do you remove?

I tried calling, but he is probably trying to wear out one of those Motoz tires. I am hoping to get this done right away, so looking for help from you guys.

He mentioned that he was going to post this information on his web site, but I couldn't find it. Ken

 

[Motosportz]

Ken, just missed your call. Super simple...

1. remove and clean the damper unit
2. remove the two outter most screws on the damper body on the knob end
3. Aim into bucket and run the arm back and forth until all the oil is out.
4. Submerge the entire unit in oil and run the arm back and forth until no more bubbles appear.
5. Stand on end and put the screws back in without loosing oil.

simple.

As for the oil almost anything will work and it is actually fun to play with different kinds. ATF is slick and works well. motor oil is what I run in my personal units as I like the weight of it and it is cheap / have piles of it. works great. Suspension fluid at 5-20 weight will work too. We send them out much stiffer than I would ever run but customers in the dez were asking for more. I run 10-15 wt suspension fluid or motor oil in mine. The oil is under very little stress. Changing it 1-2 time a year is good though as it will gather water and contaminants over time especially with temperature changes.

Thanks.

 

[Joliet]

Thanks, Kelly

 

[Joliet]

Kelly, I ran into another problem. I got the new clamp and post mounted now I am trying to mount the damper. The old post was far enough away from the damper pivot that the screw holding the arm to the pin was in the recessed area under the damper and had lots of clearance. The new pin is closer and needs to fit in the area closest to the arm. The distance between the arm and the bottom of the damper is about .035. The screw is .095 thick. Help! Ken

The pin used to be out this far and had no clearance issues.

Now the pin is in next to the damper and will not go under.

 

[Motosportz]

oops, my bad. I should have sent you an arm as well. I did send a pin right, with a little red collar? You use that instead of the screw on top so no clearance issues.

 

[Joliet]

Yes, I got a longer pin with a red plastic sleeve on it. I just used the old pin for the pics, as the new one was pretty tight in the old arm.

 

[Motosportz]

Short arm and new bottom bolt in the mail.

 

[Joliet]

Kelly, can you check and make sure this went out, I didn't receive it yet. Thanks, Ken

 

[oregontrail]

I think they're having issues at Motospotz right now, it took 3 weeks to get my dampner back, I'm 1 day shipping away, but I did finally get it back.

 

[Joliet]

Kelly, can you check and make sure this went out, I didn't receive it yet. Thanks, Ken

Bump.

 

[Motosportz]

I think they're having issues at Motospotz right now, it took 3 weeks to get my dampner back, I'm 1 day shipping away, but I did finally get it back.

just swamped and awaiting parts from the anodizer on some. Remember this is a absolutely free service.

 

[oregontrail]

just swamped and awaiting parts from the anodizer on some. Remember this is a absolutely free service.

I wasn't complaining, I was just bummed everytime I asked I got different answers on where my dampner was.

 

[Joliet]

Thanks Kelly, I got it this time. If the other package shows up, I will mail it back. Ken

 

[HUSKYnXJnWI]

Ken, just missed your call. Super simple...

1. remove and clean the damper unit
2. remove the two outter most screws on the damper body on the knob end
3. Aim into bucket and run the arm back and forth until all the oil is out.
4. Submerge the entire unit in oil and run the arm back and forth until no more bubbles appear.
5. Stand on end and put the screws back in without loosing oil.

simple.

As for the oil almost anything will work and it is actually fun to play with different kinds. ATF is slick and works well. motor oil is what I run in my personal units as I like the weight of it and it is cheap / have piles of it. works great. Suspension fluid at 5-20 weight will work too. We send them out much stiffer than I would ever run but customers in the dez were asking for more. I run 10-15 wt suspension fluid or motor oil in mine. The oil is under very little stress. Changing it 1-2 time a year is good though as it will gather water and contaminants over time especially with temperature changes.

Thanks.

Kelly-
I liked the fluid that you shipped mine with in October of 2010- I changed the fluid this spring following the directions above- was real easy- and I felt I did it right and got all the old out as well as any air- and after reading that you generally send them out with thicker oil- I used Rotella Synthetic motor oil (I think its 15/40)<<<edit>>>-ITS actually 5/40- "there's my sign". It seams lighter than what it originally was- I have it adjusted to all the way to the High setting. With the original fluid I ran it just higher than in the middle- that seams Ideal for me in most conditions.

So what fluid did you use or what do you suggest for me? (straight 20 wt oil?)

Also I was trying to stay with synthetic thinking it would be less effected by temp changes (I ride in temps below freezing to 95' normally/I might be way off in my assumption about synthetics)?

Thanks
Brad

 

[HUSKYnXJnWI]

Found that the Rotella Synth was 5/40... so I will find some Straight Weights and try them- hopefully in synthetic. 10w...15w....and 20w.... and see what comes close-

 

[HUSKYnXJnWI]

I mixxed 10wt Sae and 30wt SAE motor oil ($1.89 per qt) was going to try different ratios 1/1 =20wt and that seems pretty close to what was shipped, I like it.