• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

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    Thanks for your patience and support!

More questions about a TE 511 and It’s not about an oil Change

I

InsuranceGuy

Husqvarna
A Class
First of all I would like to thank all who have responded to my questions.
I have about 50 Miles on my 2013 TE 511 or about 1 hour of riding
time and about 4 hours of maintenance.
So far I’ve changed the oil to Mobile One 0w-40, (thanks Tinken)
greased the Steering head, swing arm, Axles and Wheel bearings.
My bike is still stock and will remain that way for about 600 miles
My problem is this bike likes to flame out. So I have a two part question.
Do I need to get map 2 or map 3 to fix the flame out on a stock bike?
Second question:
Once I upgrade the pipe to an FMF what is the best option not
To get flame outs? The reason I purchased this bike is for a street legal
Bike capable of single track riding, however it will be very dangerous
For me if this bike flames out on a black diamond trial. Once again
Any suggestions will be welcome.
 
To answer your questions:

Question #1, No, you don't need to change your ECU map to get a smooth running bike that will not flame out.

#2, You bought the bike to be street legal? If you change anything, exhaust, EFI MAP, or tuner it will no longer be especially in Cali.

I have a question for you. why would you change engine oil type away from what the manufacture recommends.

And speaking of advise from people on the internet- I think you should have run the break-in oil longer than 50 miles.

After a few hundred miles on the bike it will settle down and run better.
 
InsuranceGuy said:
First of all I would like to thank all who have responded to my questions.
I have about 50 Miles on my 2013 TE 511 or about 1 hour of riding
time and about 4 hours of maintenance.
So far I’ve changed the oil to Mobile One 0w-40, (thanks Tinken)
greased the Steering head, swing arm, Axles and Wheel bearings.
My bike is still stock and will remain that way for about 600 miles
My problem is this bike likes to flame out. So I have a two part question.
Do I need to get map 2 or map 3 to fix the flame out on a stock bike?
Second question:
Once I upgrade the pipe to an FMF what is the best option not
To get flame outs? The reason I purchased this bike is for a street legal
Bike capable of single track riding, however it will be very dangerous
For me if this bike flames out on a black diamond trial. Once again
Any suggestions will be welcome.
Click to expand...

As you have already stated, I wouldn't void your warranty for thirty days.

As Radar stated, you don't have to change anything if you leave the stock exhaust, but it's a catch 22. Flame outs make the motorcycle extremely dangerous and holding out until the bike is fully broken in and stops flaming out (if it does happen) will leave you prone to a few spills along the way. A couple of my spills were on the tarmac in traffic where I promptly said F-this and powered up map #2.

If you plan on adding the FMF aftermarket silencer, this point is moot because you will have to add more fuel. Cheapest solution is to remap the stock ecu-and/or JD tuner. The best solution imho is also the most expensive which is the powercommander 5 with autotuner O2 sensor.
 
Yes,(motomaniac) flame out is another way of saying stall. So,insurance guy, you're in Sac ? We should hook up for a ride sometime and get Brapp up there too.
That would be cool to have three TE511's tearing up GT or where ever. Not something you see everyday.
BTW, I'm using the PCV w/Powercore muffler and the flameouts are non existent. I know exactly what you mean about the dangerous aspect
of flameouts on the trail. I've had many spills directly caused by the bike stalling on a step up or hill climb and always at the precise moment you needed
it to go.
Hit me up if you want to ride. I'm always game. Jerry in Sac
 
jerbear610 said:
Yes,(motomaniac) flame out is another way of saying stall. So,insurance guy, you're in Sac ? We should hook up for a ride sometime and get Brapp up there too.
That would be cool to have three TE511's tearing up GT or where ever. Not something you see everyday.
BTW, I'm using the PCV w/Powercore muffler and the flameouts are non existent. I know exactly what you mean about the dangerous aspect
of flameouts on the trail. I've had many spills directly caused by the bike stalling on a step up or hill climb and always at the precise moment you needed
it to go.
Hit me up if you want to ride. I'm always game. Jerry in Sac
Click to expand...

Thanks for the information.

Pm me your #
 
Tinken said:
As you have already stated, I wouldn't void your warranty for thirty days.

As Radar stated, you don't have to change anything if you leave the stock exhaust, but it's a catch 22. Flame outs make the motorcycle extremely dangerous and holding out until the bike is fully broken in and stops flaming out (if it does happen) will leave you prone to a few spills along the way. A couple of my spills were on the tarmac in traffic where I promptly said F-this and powered up map #2.

If you plan on adding the FMF aftermarket silencer, this point is moot because you will have to add more fuel. Cheapest solution is to remap the stock ecu-and/or JD tuner. The best solution imho is also the most expensive which is the powercommander 5 with autotuner O2 sensor.
Click to expand...

I will wait for a pipe and spend the extra money for the powercommander and autotuner, I cannot afford to stall and get injured.
 
Radar said:
To answer your questions:

Question #1, No, you don't need to change your ECU map to get a smooth running bike that will not flame out.
I hope this stock bike will quit stalling once it gets some miles on it.

#2, You bought the bike to be street legal? If you change anything, exhaust, EFI MAP, or tuner it will no longer be especially in Cali.

I have a question for you. why would you change engine oil type away from what the manufacture recommends.

And speaking of advise from people on the internet- I think you should have run the break-in oil longer than 50 miles.

After a few hundred miles on the bike it will settle down and run better.
Click to expand...

I hope this stock bike will quit stalling once it gets some miles on it.

I would rather get fined than get hurt because of stalling.

Thanks for the information.
 
InsuranceGuy said:
I hope this stock bike will quit stalling once it gets some miles on it.

I would rather get fined than get hurt because of stalling.

Thanks for the information.
Click to expand...

If you go the JD6X route with no other changes then its easy to remove for testing if that is the issue.
 
In the meantime, I suggest you make sure the air screw is set properly for a good strong idle. Do a TPS reset as well.

Continue to ride
 
I increased the idle on my 310 found this in it self improved things no end. No more stalling, Huskys are funny things I started to hate mine when I first got it but now with a few adjustments and small mods I love it no real problems just need to keep the bike well maintained.
 
I have a 2011 TXC511. It was stalling at walking speed. I say this because the bike will tractor along at half that speed, just stalled at walking speed. This was with the MAP2 plug installed and factory pipe. I installed a JDJetting PowerSurge 6X. It gave the bike more power but still had some flame outs. Replaced the silencer with an Ackro slip on pipe (thanks Oregonsage) and this really woke the bike up but I was till having flame outs. This was with JE settings per factory recommendations:
Race Exhaust (more free flowing): Green- (4/5), Yellow- (5/6), Red- (6/7), Green/Blue- (3), Yellow/Blue- (4), Red/Blue- (5)
I called JD and was told the bike was flooding, the accelorator pump RED/BLUE was at 5. This explained why it was hard to start after a stall. They told me to take it down to 3. This did not help so I took it down to 1 and that seems to have helped. I will give it a real test this weekend.

My local Husky dealer says the after market tunners are a mistake, maybe he is just drinking the Red Kool-Aid.
Most folks on the web sites love them. Maybe they are if are racing or ride in open areas. I am not so sure they are good for this bike on single track but I am no expert. Again, a lot of guys with a lot more knowledge than me love them so who am I to say. I just know that if you have a bike that is flaming out a guy will do anything to make it stop. I know I am tired of it and will send this bike packing if I do not get it sorted out soon.
 
Johnny A said:
My local Husky dealer says the after market tunners are a mistake
Click to expand...

Works really well on my personal TE511 and almost a must on the two I sold to my friends on KTM350 for tight woods. Those bikes are stallmasters. the JD fixed 90% of the issues on the KTM 350.
 
I can see where a remap may be a better starting point, but I run JD6X on both a 511 and 449 and they both run great that way, and have for over 2 years. Before the alternate maps got out into the world the tuner was really the only answer.
 
oregonsage said:
I can see where a remap may be a better starting point, but I run JD6X on both a 511 and 449 and they both run great that way, and have for over 2 years. Before the alternate maps got out into the world the tuner was really the only answer.
Click to expand...


agreed as the JD tuner simply modifies the stock map. If you have a better map to begin with you might not need to mod it or at a very least will be modding a better starting point.
 
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