• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Midwest mountain engineering clutch lever

Third one down.

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Its a brembo, but there is two versions on for a 350f and a non 350f the only difference is an adjustment screw
 
at least one of our crew swears by that thing, its on both his 250XCF and 250XC Katos, hes a picky about items old school rider (hes the guy that removed the estarts from his katos) its definitaly a high quality item and the lever ratio is instantly noticable for lever pull force reduction (which is low anyway)
 
robertaccio said:
at least one of our crew swears by that thing, its on both his 250XCF and 250XC Katos, hes a picky about items old school rider (hes the guy that removed the estarts from his katos) its definitaly a high quality item and the lever ratio is instantly noticable for lever pull force reduction (which is low anyway)
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Id like one for my 511 as it gets somewhat tiresome to clutch in the tight stuff for hours.
 
Guys it worked like a champ on my son's TM 250. The stiff clutch pull was the only thing not up par on that bike and their clutch lever fixed that.
 
My 511, once you understand how it likes to be ridden (which is a lot different than my 165) is actually a really good tight woods bike but you have to stay on the clutch like most big 4 strokes. I was contemplating a EFM autoclutch but hope this does enough I don't have to do that.
 
I just talked to Steve from Midwest mountain engineering. He told my I need the non 350f... done I just ordered it. The difference between the two 350f and non 350f is a $10 piston shaft. He said guys had complaints about the adjustments for the KTM 350's.
 
I have a EFM auto clutch and I am removing it due to heat and reliability issues. Don't get me wrong it's a great product and amazing customer service.
 
I ordered the non-350 version for my TE310R. Works like a charm. Really love these levers. Only problem I've found with this one, vs the one on my 09 TE250 is that it seems to force my hand closer to the inside edge of the grip, so I get a blister on my thumb. Still, I can't imagine not having it!
 
AndrewS said:
I ordered the non-350 version for my TE310R. Works like a charm. Really love these levers. Only problem I've found with this one, vs the one on my 09 TE250 is that it seems to force my hand closer to the inside edge of the grip, so I get a blister on my thumb. Still, I can't imagine not having it!
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I've had similar on my 511. My thinking is due to it being designed for KTM's, which seem to have smaller/thinner switch blocks (for the headlight, horn etc), the lever is spaced further inboard on the 'bars so your hand position is closer to the flange on the grips, if that makes sense.
 
Caiman said:
I've had similar on my 511. My thinking is due to it being designed for KTM's, which seem to have smaller/thinner switch blocks (for the headlight, horn etc), the lever is spaced further inboard on the 'bars so your hand position is closer to the flange on the grips, if that makes sense.
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Yep, I think you're right. I remembered there being a gap between the switch block and the mirror/clutch perch and that there was a kind of plastic tab from the switch block that kept that distance. I wasn't sure why, but looking at it, it seems to be to protect the wiring that comes from the switch block. Otherwise, the perch could be pushed right against the wiring, either wearing the insulation and shorting, or actually breaking the wiring.
 
Installed mine today seems to work well haven't gone for a ride yet thou, I also installed the brake lever. Had to screw the adjustment right in so the clutch would not drag soo much better than the OEM.
 
I'm having problems with my MME clutch lever. When the bike gets hot, the clutch slips. I set it up so there was a little free play to combat this. That helps, but that kills any chance of complete clutch disengagement. But when the bike gets hot, the free play is gone, and the clutch slips. It's most noticeable in third gear and you really punch it. I don't know how the OEM lever can prevent this from happening. I don't think its the lever engineering, though it could be that the hole for the piston rod was not milled correctly on mine. But now I'm paranoid that I'm going to send my clutch to an early grave.

I also had to file some material off of the brake lever in order to get it to seat enough to hit the brake light switch. This was because that part of the lever was curved and needed to mate with a right angle on the reservoir.

Steve seemed to have no idea if the levers would work for a Husky when I contacted him. And I think I ordered mine after you all did. Though he was very responsive and polite when I contacted him with my issues. But after I sent him pics of what was going on, and where I filed, he went silent. Pretty sure some ARCs are in my future. I should have listened to the Tinken when he recommended them. :banghead:
 
On Tinken's recommendation early on as I was just looking to carry a spare. I don't crash much but if I do the bendable levers made sense and they are a quality product that fits the clutch and brake well.

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Cosmokenney said:
I'm having problems with my MME clutch lever. When the bike gets hot, the clutch slips. I set it up so there was a little free play to combat this. That helps, but that kills any chance of complete clutch disengagement. But when the bike gets hot, the free play is gone, and the clutch slips. It's most noticeable in third gear and you really punch it. I don't know how the OEM lever can prevent this from happening. I don't think its the lever engineering, though it could be that the hole for the piston rod was not milled correctly on mine. But now I'm paranoid that I'm going to send my clutch to an early grave.

I also had to file some material off of the brake lever in order to get it to seat enough to hit the brake light switch. This was because that part of the lever was curved and needed to mate with a right angle on the reservoir.

Steve seemed to have no idea if the levers would work for a Husky when I contacted him. And I think I ordered mine after you all did. Though he was very responsive and polite when I contacted him with my issues. But after I sent him pics of what was going on, and where I filed, he went silent. Pretty sure some ARCs are in my future. I should have listened to the Tinken when he recommended them. :banghead:
Click to expand...



Well thats not good, was all excited I got mine installed today for tomorrows ride. More leverage means more pull. I noticed mine works fine but had to adjust it as it want to creep when pulled in. We will see.
 
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