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Marzocchi 45mm Shiver Forks - Discussion

Fast1

Fast1

Husqvarna
AA Class
After installing compression adjusters and 5 weight fork fluid in my TE630 270 mm travel Marzocchi forks I found a considerable improvement but I'm still searching for more.

I'd like to pose the following questions for discussion so that others besides myself can benefit with improving their 630 front suspension action and/or frame/fork geometry.

so for starters:

·where is the lowering spacer located on the TE630 270 mm travel forks?
·is this a 30 mm spacer thus equating to the overall reduction from the TE610 300 mm fork?
·are the overall length of the 610 and 630 fork springs identical?
·if the fork spring length is equivalent, how much does the spring pre-load spacer length differ between the different travel forks?
·are the compression and rebound valving identical between the 300 mm and 270 mm travel forks?


The other issue that is somewhat puzzling, is what else did Husqvarna do to compensate for the lower 270 mm forks on the TE630 vs the TE610 300 mm forks?

·part numbers for the rear shock and linkage appear identical as does shock travel on both bikes at 320 mm.
·ground clearance appears less on the TE630
·with the TE630 front riding lower the bike exhibits tendencies of over-steer or "knifing" in soft conditions which may be resolved with the TE610 300 mm fork travel. This tendency may be more apparent with compression adjusters set on the softest setting on 270 mm front forks but may be circumvented somewhat with additional rear sag and lowering the forks in the triples.

I know after searching that there are a few members here that have enormous amounts of suspension knowledge and am hoping that they will jump in this thread and share some of it.
 
I did some 45 shivers and got them to work great but was on a 125. Goldvales made a very noticable differance as well as new springs. Yes, there is a gold valve for those forks no matter what they tell you. Just tossing that out there for options nothing more. Obviously 125 and 630 are slightly different :D. The key for me is more valve flow. On my 45mm 02 CR250 I drilled the ports as far as I could and revalved. Good but not as good as the goldvaled setup.

2 cents.
 
Those Race Tech gold valves would seem to offer some rewards for the Marzocchi's. Wonder if they work in unison with the compression adjusters?

From what I remember you are only to release the pressure in the forks when fully extended such as on a stand.
 
DYNOBOB said:
I have a question though. Once you have a bike strapped down for transport, should you push your air bleeds to let the pressure out? (I know you should extend the forks and hit them before riding the bike)
Click to expand...

Big no-no on that. If you ever do it better have your goggles on as you might get shot in the face with fork oil. You only want to remove static air pressure when fully at rest (extended). If forks are compressed and you bleed the air out then you would actually get a slight vacuum affect when forks were extended. Wouldn't be a good thing for the ride I'm sure.

_
 
SilverBullet said:
Big no-no on that. If you ever do it better have your goggles on as you might get shot in the face with fork oil. You only want to remove static air pressure when fully at rest (extended). If forks are compressed and you bleed the air out then you would actually get a slight vacuum affect when forks were extended. Wouldn't be a good thing for the ride I'm sure.

_
Click to expand...


I have many friends that do this all the time without issue. Then you just hit them again before riding.
 
I've found it more important to relieve the air pressure when transporting your bike from sea level to then ride at 10,000 feet or visa versa.

However has anyone pulled apart the 270 mm travel 630 forks and found the so called spacer on the dampener? When reviewing the parts diagram on hall's website this spacer is not listed. Also you would think that the preload spacer would/should be longer after removing the lowering spacer??
 
I'm curious about the compression adjusters, please tell me more?
I need some for my 2009 sm610.
 
another interesting tidbit..

The shop manual lists rear sag to be set at 90mm. IMO at 90mm rear sag my bike would handle like junk and be "stinkbug" (high in the rear and low in the front). Now if I were to raise the front up 30mm with the 300mm 610 forks, then the 90mm rear sag might be ok.
 
jimmyc said:
I'm curious about the compression adjusters, please tell me more?
I need some for my 2009 sm610.
Click to expand...


Should be able to acquire the 610 compression adjusters and install them in the bottom of the forks with your factory shim stack.
I would imagine Halls could get them for you. I procured mine from a local dealer here in MN.
 
Motosportz said:
I have many friends that do this all the time without issue. Then you just hit them again before riding.
Click to expand...

Yes, I've done it many times without any fluid coming out - and I pull the front tire off the ground with the kickstand and hit them before I ride. Reason I asked is the local ktm dealer said don't do it because it sucks dust/dirt up into the forks when you unstrap the bike. Doesn't seem to me that it would cause anything to get in that wasn't going to already...?


.
 
DYNOBOB said:
I have a question though. Once you have a bike strapped down for transport, should you push your air bleeds to let the pressure out?
Click to expand...
It sounds a good idea to me! Until the last year the seal of the left stanchion of my fork was damaged (I've replaced it) and when the bike was strapped down, it leaked a little oil, due to the pressue, I guess.
(I know you should extend the forks and hit them before riding the bike)
Click to expand...
IMO you should hold the bleeds open (or unscrew them) while you unstrap the bike and then bleed the fork again after having extended it completely, lifting the front end. The zone near the bleeds should be clean when the fork sucks air.
 
I am not sure why you would strap a bike down and compress the forks anyway? When i put my two bikes on the trailer, i have a wedge that goes between the top of the tyre and the bottom of the frame and you tighten down on that so the forks don't compress.... all that pressure for any length of time and you risk your seals leaking, and the springs over time will be stressed too.

Like this, but i made my own.... http://www.gear4motorcycles.co.uk/?i=653633
 
Made my own too - but sometimes you don't have them/forgot them....

Sorry for derailing your thread Mike! :(:o

2014-04-21_11-15-44_892.jpg~original



.
 
Does that mean you picked up a KTM Bob? You might have to lengthen those Husky crosses if we can figure out how to remove the lowering spacer.


Dustin was out with me last weekend riding his new 2014 KTM 500exc.. hard not to want one after I spent a 1/2 hour on it.

But I wish one of the members here that has had some experience with these Marzocchi 45mm shivers would share his knowledge****************************************!
 
Fast1 said:
. Also you would think that the preload spacer would/should be longer after removing the lowering spacer??
Click to expand...

You would.Another method is a different length fork spring at the right rate.When i shortened a set of cr80 forks,with a spacer welded to the damper tube,the spring was shortened by the same amount.We just need some one to pull the buggers apart and take pics of the internals.Like the bmw guys did on adv http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=603554
Seems like this is a big secret on the husky
http://
 
Thanks for the response wickedwill.. yes I've also spent some time on the ADV thread you mentioned and have noticed allot of variations in the Marzocchi 45mm forks depending on the bike they had been fitted to.

If someone can shed some light on the spring lengths for the 300mm and 270 mm travel forks that would help.
 
DYNOBOB said:
Yes, I've done it many times without any fluid coming out - and I pull the front tire off the ground with the kickstand and hit them before I ride...
Click to expand...

I occasionally get a little oil out of mine even with the forks fully extended. Under compression I would have thought quite a bit more.


B16 RIK said:
I am not sure why you would strap a bike down and compress the forks anyway? When i put my two bikes on the trailer, i have a wedge that goes between the top of the tyre and the bottom of the frame and you tighten down on that so the forks don't compress.... all that pressure for any length of time and you risk your seals leaking, and the springs over time will be stressed too.
Click to expand...

Doesn't hurt the seals or springs to transport like that. You do not fully compress. This has been discussed over and over again like what oil to use. Do what you feel comfortable with but if you do use a wedge be sure it is strong one like Dynobob's. I have heard of more than one occurance of those store bought plastic supports breaking and the bike doing a dance off the trailer.

_
 
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