Losing My Mind With This Bike 2013 Txc250r

[up_husky250]

I’ve never posted here before. But I’m at my wits end with this bike. I picked up a 2013 TXC250R about a month ago. It’s had a few odd issues that I’ve found similar descriptions of here so I’m hoping to solve these problems once and for all so I can get out and ride.
I’m a beginner-amateur short woman rider. I plan to keep the Rekluse unless it’s somehow the source of my problems. I can’t put both feet on the ground, tip toe gang with balance and the Rekluse comes in very handy for me being able to stop in gear. I otherwise operate it as a normal clutch. I am also not a mechanic and don’t pretend to be so please bear with me here. I have the manual and with the assistance of YouTube videos or step by step instructions I can handle most of it.

Rekluse clutch
No O2 sensor (according to dealer)

Bike runs great when it’s cold. (55-65ish temps)
Idle isn’t right, bike would die when hot unless I stayed on the throttle, turning idle up a few clicks helped.
Bike died when I pulled the clutch in to down shift from 6th.
Always new gas, gas is always on, oil changes done, new air filter, etc.
E start works sometimes. Battery tested good, amp and voltage. Clicks half the time like it’s dead, other times starts right up. (When bike has died mid-ride, e start will always work)
With the aid of a 2” cinder block, I can start it first kick in flip flops.
Over heating light has never come on.

I believe.. from research here.. that I need to replace the temp sensor (bike thinks it’s overheating) and possibly the starter gear.

I brought it to the local Husky dealer describing this issues. I was told they aren’t going to throw parts at it just because I think that’s what’s wrong (wouldn’t order them for me). I brought it in at their request, picked it up two days later as they said it was all good. The head mechanic said “the Rekluse is the top of the line one, nothings wrong with it, it’s a piece of shit and you should take it out and throw it in the woods”. There was nothing else wrong, it’s normal to have to click the e start over and over until it fires up, and that it’s also normal for it to idle so badly it sounds like it’s going to die. This is because it is a race bike and I need to be on it all the time and that’s essentially why it dies. (I may also not be 100% correct about that as he didn’t want to talk to me, and kept talking to the male friend with me who kept referring him back to me.)

My next intention is to bring it down to Halls Cycles in IL (closest place at 8 1/2 hour dr) at the end of the riding season and leaving it there all winter but if I need to do that much sooner than I will.

I really hope you wonderful people have some advice or suggestions because I hate to miss out on riding completely this year.

 

[Eoin]

There are lots of simple basic checks to do:
- How old is the battery? Bad battery means variable voltage which can cause all sorts of gremlins.
- Visually run over all wiring and check for damaged / chafed insulation. Split all connectors and check for corrosion or signs of arcing on pins. Clean with electrical contact cleaner.
- Check the engine inlet side. Take it apart, clean the injector (injector cleaner), make sure nothing has perished / cracked that could give you an air leak.
- Check plug lead / plug condition even if the dealer said they did it.

My Huskys both have Mikuni FI so I can interrogate with iBeat. Someone on here will know how you can check sensors etc. on this model.

 

[Riksha]

Back when I had a 09 te450, there was an issue of the fuel injection bike dying when dropping back to idle. The solution I found online here was to tighten the the throttle cable to raise the idle then adjust the idle back down on the injector. Not sure if that’s the solution to your bike tho.
I dig the rekluse core 3.0 esp, my friend has the z start pro and being able to still have a functioning clutch is an advantage imho. Good luck on finding a solution

 

[glangston]

Temp sensor
Adjust exhaust valve for easier starting…at least this was a common thing to try on 2012 models. There should be info on this that’s easy to find.

 

[LBM.]

Lots of good advice above, the temp sensor was a known issue, make sure the one in your engine has the white plastic body. The orig ones were black but even the newer style can fail over time. If you swap it out do not overtighten, an o-ring on it seals the coolant not force on the threads, it can break off. also the idle speeds on these engines needs to be high. My 11 310 likes 2200 rpm. Good luck.

2011 te310 at 339 hours (11,796 kms and counting)

 

[up_husky250]

So I’ve replaced the injector and temp sensor. The one I pulled out had the white plastic housing. Put a new one in anyways. It sounds better, idles like it should. Battery is now dead dead. No response from it. The shop that tested in a few weeks ago said everything was good, voltage and amperage, battery health 100%. It’s a Yuasa.
That leads me to believe something is bad electronically as I don’t have a key, so nothing gets left on. At least that I’m aware of.
1) is there a battery anyone recommends?
2) is there any reason, something I’m not doing right with it being a rekluse that causes the bike to die when I pull the clutch in to downshift?

It was previously dying giving it gas idling roughly, now it dies pulling the clutch in.

 

[up_husky250]

There are lots of simple basic checks to do:
- How old is the battery? Bad battery means variable voltage which can cause all sorts of gremlins.
- Visually run over all wiring and check for damaged / chafed insulation. Split all connectors and check for corrosion or signs of arcing on pins. Clean with electrical contact cleaner.
- Check the engine inlet side. Take it apart, clean the injector (injector cleaner), make sure nothing has perished / cracked that could give you an air leak.
- Check plug lead / plug condition even if the dealer said they did it.

My Huskys both have Mikuni FI so I can interrogate with iBeat. Someone on here will know how you can check sensors etc. on this model.

Unsure on battery age but supposedly was good. Again, this is the same shop who I brought it to. Not to mention the bike is now leaking oil, wasn’t an issue before they touched it.
I looked at all wiring when I had the bike apart to do the injector and temp sensor. There’s nothing visibly damaged or worn looking. Checked all connections. Previously I had used a meter to check visible wires without pulling the tank off and everything reachable all checked out.

 

[glangston]

Fuel pump? My dealer George (Uptite) pulled mine out and put a new filter and connection on it. Leaking.

 

[up_husky250]

So I solved the "dead" battery problem. My starter is shot. Put a brand new battery in it after charging mine with no success, still nothing, meter determined starter is dead. Not too sure I'm going to replace it because of the cost and still being able to kick start the bike. Fuel pump is good. Took it out for a 2 1/2 hour ride on Saturday, bike died 3 times, however this time I was able to kick start it right away instead of having to wait for it to cool. I've also had the fan running for the first time ever after replacing the temp sensor so I'm getting somewhere!

 

[Eoin]

It's always a problem fault finding on an unknown vehicle. You assume there's one single issue, which is frequently wrong.

 

[funmachines]

Rekluse isn't an issue. Sounds like you are making progress. I'd check to see if you have a short when the bike is off. Disconnect one of the battery terminals and put an amp meter across it. Should read nothing if all is good. I have a 2012 310 with the other EFI so I can't help there but it has the Rekluse that works great for my son. Higher idle speed helps and make sure the Rekluse is adjusted properly so it doesn't contribute to stalling. They have very light flywheels and small displacement so they are easier to stall.

Good luck