• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Loose wheel bearing

slosh

slosh

Husqvarna
AA Class
Just put the rear wheel back on my 1984 wr500 for first time and found the RHS bearing was loose in the hub. It kept falling out and taking the internal spacer with it as I tried to feed the axle through. It can just hold itself in if not disturbed. Would Loctite retainer be good enough fix or will I need something more technical?
 
Sounds like the hub is worn :( There may be a Loctite bearing fix out there. (you have checked the bearing O.D. is correct ?)
 
I am guessing RHS means right hand side, the side the chain is on.

First bike I bought an xc500 in 1992 had a brass shim in there. Have never come across another like that. That is probably the way to go. Things are different now with ebay wheels and hubs were not going for much money when I followed that section of ebay. I think that bike in my avatar cost less than 10 rear hubs when I bought it.
 
yeah, hub is worn out...likely from being run with loose bearings. you can have a machinist make a bushing to make it tight again, or get a new hub..
 
Loctite makes a product to hold bearings. It keeps them from spinning in the hub. I can't remember how much space it claims it will fill. I can't imagine it could be far of enough center to matter. I would try it. For the cost of making and fitting a bushing, I would replace the hub. Jeff
 
As noted by others, Loctite 660 may work depending on how much play there is, Loctite does not recommend it for anything over .010 inches. We once used it on a Bultaco that had spun a main bearing in the case, worked for several years.
 
OK, never thought to check if the bearing was correct, so will do that first. It is the bearing on sprocket side.
Looking on ebay, I can get an 86 wr240 wheel for around $200 AU shipped- if my backing plate fits? Other than that it would be something from US for $300 AU shipped.
I have some bearing retaining compound here so I'll try that with a new bearing before looking at new hub.
 
They offer a 620 loctite for cylinderical parts. It takes up spaces from .015" / .020" I believe. If the bore clearance is close.

Next,
First I seen this done on shafts and loose hubs before. They prick punch around the inside bore on the hub. Lightly all around the inside. Then try the bearing by hand to see if it's not loose starting in the prick punch marks. If the bearing still goes in make the prick punch marks deeper to expand the metal higher. The loctite and install the bearing.
 
Since your hub is worn...feel free to try to mini-nuerilize the bore...slather it with Locktite...and even stake the outer edge of the bore to try to retain that bearing...what have you got to lose?
Just be clear that if you are going to ride the bike on rough terrain...the bearing is going to loosen up.
Imagine the force put on that drive side bearing by the chain pull...and the shock load transferred to it with every sharp bump.

So give it a try...but...
 
Stake the outside good idea too. How about a epoxy?

Since this is the last go around with this rim why not put a zerk fitting in the center of the hub and remove the inner seals on the bearings. Of course wash the hub squeaky clean first. Then grease the hub so the bearings will last longer.
 
I have quite successfully wrapped the bearing with a thin blade off a set of feeler gauges to jam it in tight! AKA bodge it and scarper.
 
On garden tractor rims I have taken a 1/2" dr socket the size under the outside of the rim breaking out side bore and swage the bearing housing small again after a bad bearing wallowed it out. Sometimes you have to be creative.

I just had a crazy idea. Swage the outer diameter so it's snug on the bearing. Epoxy or loctite the bearing in place. When you install the bearing use the axle as a guide with washers as a spacer when you push in the bearing in so it's lined up. Then stake the outer lip on the hub. Now using a small radiator hose clamp install it around the outside of the hub so it's held tight. Just make sure the clamp clears the brake shoes.
 
Bigbill said:
On garden tractor rims I have taken a 1/2" dr socket the size under the outside of the rim breaking out side bore and swage the bearing housing small again after a bad bearing wallowed it out. Sometimes you have to be creative.

I just had a crazy idea. Swage the outer diameter so it's snug on the bearing. Epoxy or loctite the bearing in place. When you install the bearing use the axle as a guide with washers as a spacer when you push in the bearing in so it's lined up. Then stake the outer lip on the hub. Now using a small radiator hose clamp install it around the outside of the hub so it's held tight. Just make sure the clamp clears the brake shoes.
Click to expand...
very crazy idea...think it would be possible to have that clamp come loose and lock the wheel? i hope you wouldnt work on a friends bike like that.
 
Take it to machinist, have machined for press fit sleeve. Press new sleeve in with retainer adhesive.
Then you can re bore the hole for your press fit bearing. Old suzuki RM 125's were notorious for spinning a main bearing. That's how we fixed them.
 
There are a number of ways to fix this. There is a product called Belzona that is like Bondo body filler. Once dry it is so hard that it can be machined and will probably be harder than the original Hub. Only problem is the Belzona will probably cost more than a NOS Hub is worth and that's with out machining.
Buy an oversize Bearing. Same ID just larger OD. Any bearing house nearby should be able to do this. Then machine the Hub to match.
I don't agree with Your costs of a Used hub. I needed a new one for 83 front. I placed an add on Marks Vintage and had a number of replies. I ended up buying two, one for $35 and one for $50 that had been Powder Coated. These are US prices. Sure Shipping is going to be more, and You will end up buying and installing a Spoke Kit, but it will be done right.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top