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Hi everyone,
As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.
When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.
Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.
Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.
Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.
Thanks for your patience and support!
Little Tricks
- Thread starter HuskyDude
- Start date
Creeper
Husqvarna
AA Class
As in penny-tech little tricks?
How about a "universal, one-size-fits-all rear axle alignment tool"?
I originally wrote this when I had a KTM 640 Adventure. I have a Sherco now... but as it's "universal" it will work just fine for Huskys too.
OK... so it's not universal. The rod length may vary from bike to bike and it's of no value on a bike with snail cam adjusters like a DRZ for example... or a shaft drive anything. So I lied... so sue me.
What you need:
All you need to make one is a 35 cent piece of steel 1/8” welding rod... about 36" worth, and a zip-tie. For a total investment of what? 40 cents maybe. You can make this tool tricker and fancier... but I doubt you can make it cheaper.
Get at least 1/8" steel rod for this... smaller diameter or softer materials are too flexy and inaccurate.
Why you need it:
Rear axle alignment, with few exceptions, is usually only as accurate as the axle block and swingarm hash marks… which is to say not very accurate at all.
Rear axle misalignment can cause unstable tracking down a straight road, “odd” handling in corners, accelerated tire wear, brake pad wear and chain and sprocket wear.
How you make it:
Cut the rod to length so it is a few inches longer than the approximate distance from your swingarm pivot shaft center to the rear axle center… in the case of the KTM LC4, about 29-30” is fine.
Grind a point on one end of the rod and bend that end at a 90 degree angle. The length of this bend will vary from brand to brand, model to model, but the idea is to have the major length of rod parallel with the swingarm when measuring.
In the case of the KTM LC4, a handy length is about ¾”.
Most dirt bikes will take a straight rod section and a variable length on the short end of the 90 degree bend.
Now grab a zip tie, put it tight over the long end of the rod and cut the tail off short and to a clean point. Congrats… you have made a tool.
If you need to, you can make more complicated sets of bends to clear things that are permanently in the way. The drawing is an approximation of a tool for a '79 to present Harley-Davidson with a rubber mount driveline.
How it works:
On a KTM LC4, there are rounded plastic buttons in both ends of the swingarm pivot shaft and one on the fixed end of the rear axle… and then an aluminum axle nut.
If you don't have plastic buttons, you've got a pivot shaft end, or a cap nut or both.
Still works... just make sure you're on center.
It doesn’t matter which side you start on. You place the pointy end in the center of the plastic button (or what ever you have) on the swingarm pivot shaft...
... and slide the zip-tie so the pointy end of it aligns with the center of the axle… that is the "reference length" for one side.
Now you transfer the tool to the other side and see where the center of the axle is in relationship to the reference length.
Adjust that side of the axle (or both sides, more or less) until both sides measure the same distance by the tool, then using the current alignment as a baseline, readjust your axle for proper chain tension for your particular bike.
That's it... you done.
This is the "whole tool"... nothin' but the tool.
So, with a 40 cent tool, you can potentially get your axle aligned to an accuracy of well under one millimeter. The accuracy of the tool is based on the users consistency.
So there ya go,
C
How about a "universal, one-size-fits-all rear axle alignment tool"?
I originally wrote this when I had a KTM 640 Adventure. I have a Sherco now... but as it's "universal" it will work just fine for Huskys too.
OK... so it's not universal. The rod length may vary from bike to bike and it's of no value on a bike with snail cam adjusters like a DRZ for example... or a shaft drive anything. So I lied... so sue me.
What you need:
All you need to make one is a 35 cent piece of steel 1/8” welding rod... about 36" worth, and a zip-tie. For a total investment of what? 40 cents maybe. You can make this tool tricker and fancier... but I doubt you can make it cheaper.
Get at least 1/8" steel rod for this... smaller diameter or softer materials are too flexy and inaccurate.
Why you need it:
Rear axle alignment, with few exceptions, is usually only as accurate as the axle block and swingarm hash marks… which is to say not very accurate at all.
Rear axle misalignment can cause unstable tracking down a straight road, “odd” handling in corners, accelerated tire wear, brake pad wear and chain and sprocket wear.
How you make it:
Cut the rod to length so it is a few inches longer than the approximate distance from your swingarm pivot shaft center to the rear axle center… in the case of the KTM LC4, about 29-30” is fine.
Grind a point on one end of the rod and bend that end at a 90 degree angle. The length of this bend will vary from brand to brand, model to model, but the idea is to have the major length of rod parallel with the swingarm when measuring.
In the case of the KTM LC4, a handy length is about ¾”.
Most dirt bikes will take a straight rod section and a variable length on the short end of the 90 degree bend.
Now grab a zip tie, put it tight over the long end of the rod and cut the tail off short and to a clean point. Congrats… you have made a tool.
If you need to, you can make more complicated sets of bends to clear things that are permanently in the way. The drawing is an approximation of a tool for a '79 to present Harley-Davidson with a rubber mount driveline.
How it works:
On a KTM LC4, there are rounded plastic buttons in both ends of the swingarm pivot shaft and one on the fixed end of the rear axle… and then an aluminum axle nut.
If you don't have plastic buttons, you've got a pivot shaft end, or a cap nut or both.
Still works... just make sure you're on center.
It doesn’t matter which side you start on. You place the pointy end in the center of the plastic button (or what ever you have) on the swingarm pivot shaft...
... and slide the zip-tie so the pointy end of it aligns with the center of the axle… that is the "reference length" for one side.
Now you transfer the tool to the other side and see where the center of the axle is in relationship to the reference length.
Adjust that side of the axle (or both sides, more or less) until both sides measure the same distance by the tool, then using the current alignment as a baseline, readjust your axle for proper chain tension for your particular bike.
That's it... you done.
This is the "whole tool"... nothin' but the tool.
So, with a 40 cent tool, you can potentially get your axle aligned to an accuracy of well under one millimeter. The accuracy of the tool is based on the users consistency.
So there ya go,
C
Norman Foley
Husqvarna
Pro Class
I use a variation of creeper's tool as a "one man" sag measurement tool. I used a length of flux cored aluminum welding rod, as that's what was handy.
Norman
Norman
Creeper
Husqvarna
AA Class
Norman Foley;2580 said:
Hey Norman...
Yep... me too. Hook the 90 end into the slot corner in the swingarm and just slide the ziptie to your reference point. That's one way to do it... I'm sure there are others depending on the bike.
Needing help to check sag is just plain... wrong.
Norman Foley
Husqvarna
Pro Class
Creeper,Creeper;2581 said:Hey Norman...
Yep... me too. Hook the 90 end into the slot corner in the swingarm and just slide the ziptie to your reference point. That's one way to do it... I'm sure there are others depending on the bike.
Needing help to check sag is just plain... wrong.
I need to hook up with you for an '03 TE610E seat job this Winter.
Norman
raisrx251;2587 said:Here is my (or CH's) trick for the kick stand on my WR 250. Not sure if you TE owners can use this or not.
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That's a good one (thumbs up)
neversurfaced
Husqvarna
AA Class
Well, to be honest I didn’t think of this one myself, I just happened to wonder across it the other day at Costco. I figured with all the sidestand issues us 08 TE owners have been having, that this might come in handy:
Apparently, all that is required is a packing tape dispenser, and viola:
Apparently, all that is required is a packing tape dispenser, and viola:
SwitchThrottle
Husqvarna
A Class
I always carry a 3' piece of clear hose for fuel swaps. They call my bike the XR-valdez as it as the 3.8 gal clarke on it.
Google sailboat sail tape.
When your graphixs begin to peel/fall off the bionic double sided tape works real well. Sail boat tape is pretty good stuff, I have seen 'Venture' and 'Tytan'. Venture being the stronger of the two. Much like the 3M stuff you see at office depot but way way stronger.
When your graphixs begin to peel/fall off the bionic double sided tape works real well. Sail boat tape is pretty good stuff, I have seen 'Venture' and 'Tytan'. Venture being the stronger of the two. Much like the 3M stuff you see at office depot but way way stronger.
Tips and tricks
This one might need to be made into a sticky at some point. The idea here is just what the title implies, a place for us to share our collective knowledge of all the little things to bail us out of a bind or just make life easier.
I'll start off with a few and add more as time goes by.
THREADED THINGS
Ever strip a threaded hole? Come on now be honest, there are lots of threaded aluminum pieces on our bikes and just threading and unthreading bolts enough times will wear out the threads in the aluminum.
The best way I have found to repair stripped or worn threads is with a solid threaded insert. There are several types available but in my opinion the very best you can buy are Time Serts.
http://www.timesert.com/
How about breaking a tap?
Broken tap extractors are available from McMaster Carr.
http://www.mcmaster.com/
Hand and Spiral-Point Tap Extractors
Remove broken taps and save threads without drilling or using special tools. Extractors have hardened steel "fingers" that fit in the flutes of a broken tap so you can remove the tap without damaging the workpiece threads. Their square shank is compatible with standard tap wrenches. Use on right- and left-hand NC, NF, and metric threads. Made of steel.
Extra fingers are sold in packages of 12 unless noted.
Pipe tap extractors and extra fingers for sizes 1/8" to 1/2".
If it is an emergency you might be able to make you're own tap extractor. Simply take the shank of the tap that you broke and place some small brad nails in the recessed area of the flutes then using some 5min. epoxy like JB quick weld you can secure the brads in place. Now use a small hose clamp over the epoxy to add a bit strength and you will have a homemade tap extractor its not a s good as a commercially available one but it might get you out a bind in a hurry.
What about those pesky studs and pipe plugs that wont come out?
There are many things that can cause this; maybe someone used red loctite when they were assembled, rust and corrosion or two dissimilar metals that have created an electric potential and the two pieces have began to plate out on each other.
One way of breaking them free that always seems to work for me is to use a torch to heat the stud or pipe plug until it glows red then let it cool down until it is just very hot and spray some penetrating oil around the threads. After letting it cool completely it will usually come out with little more than finger pressure.
Speaking of penetrating oil. There is a difference between a light lubricant such as WD-40 and real penetrating oil like Liquid wrench. They both have a purpose for which they are best suited and Liquid Wrench is better suited to aiding the removal of stuck bolts but you can make you're own penetrant that outperform almost anything on the market by making a 50/50 mix of diesel fuel and ATF.
More to come later please feel free to add any of you're own magic acts to this thread.
This one might need to be made into a sticky at some point. The idea here is just what the title implies, a place for us to share our collective knowledge of all the little things to bail us out of a bind or just make life easier.
I'll start off with a few and add more as time goes by.
THREADED THINGS
Ever strip a threaded hole? Come on now be honest, there are lots of threaded aluminum pieces on our bikes and just threading and unthreading bolts enough times will wear out the threads in the aluminum.
The best way I have found to repair stripped or worn threads is with a solid threaded insert. There are several types available but in my opinion the very best you can buy are Time Serts.
http://www.timesert.com/
How about breaking a tap?
Broken tap extractors are available from McMaster Carr.
http://www.mcmaster.com/
Hand and Spiral-Point Tap Extractors
Remove broken taps and save threads without drilling or using special tools. Extractors have hardened steel "fingers" that fit in the flutes of a broken tap so you can remove the tap without damaging the workpiece threads. Their square shank is compatible with standard tap wrenches. Use on right- and left-hand NC, NF, and metric threads. Made of steel.
Extra fingers are sold in packages of 12 unless noted.
Pipe tap extractors and extra fingers for sizes 1/8" to 1/2".
If it is an emergency you might be able to make you're own tap extractor. Simply take the shank of the tap that you broke and place some small brad nails in the recessed area of the flutes then using some 5min. epoxy like JB quick weld you can secure the brads in place. Now use a small hose clamp over the epoxy to add a bit strength and you will have a homemade tap extractor its not a s good as a commercially available one but it might get you out a bind in a hurry.
What about those pesky studs and pipe plugs that wont come out?
There are many things that can cause this; maybe someone used red loctite when they were assembled, rust and corrosion or two dissimilar metals that have created an electric potential and the two pieces have began to plate out on each other.
One way of breaking them free that always seems to work for me is to use a torch to heat the stud or pipe plug until it glows red then let it cool down until it is just very hot and spray some penetrating oil around the threads. After letting it cool completely it will usually come out with little more than finger pressure.
Speaking of penetrating oil. There is a difference between a light lubricant such as WD-40 and real penetrating oil like Liquid wrench. They both have a purpose for which they are best suited and Liquid Wrench is better suited to aiding the removal of stuck bolts but you can make you're own penetrant that outperform almost anything on the market by making a 50/50 mix of diesel fuel and ATF.
More to come later please feel free to add any of you're own magic acts to this thread.
