• 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

All 2st Linkage bearings

Terry B

Husqvarna
Hello
Haven't really posted much here but have found alot of usefull infornation.My question is it's time to replace the linkage bearingsand i'm wondering if oem holds up better than the aftermarket stuff?
Thanks Terry
 
I got one season of racing on the stock linkage bearings in my WR 250. I replaced them this winter with All Balls stuff. I have been using their stuff for years with no problems. I know some people will say they are cheap asain bearings, but I have never had problems with them. Lower cost than OEM and equal quality in my opinion.
 
i think the company is called synergy seals, (google it). they were refered to me by someone on here.. they make a lower shock bushing insyead of a bearing. the stock bearing last 1 season max as i found out and as most everyone whos got a husky has found.

in iowa we run in a lot of mud. im going to put the bushing in, ill report on how it held up in the middle of the season.
 
All Balls offers the lower shock bearing(where the shock clevis attaches to the linkage) in either needle bearing type or spherical heim type. That bearing is the most prone to failure on any linkage type suspension.
 
Not exactly the same topic but related... (and Drew mentioned All Balls having the shock bearings in two styles), ....

Does anybody know if All Balls has the Husky swingarm needle bearings? ... Or a substitute.

One of my swingarm bearings got rusty.

Thanks, dave
 
bower100;71688 said:
Not exactly the same topic but related... (and Drew mentioned All Balls having the shock bearings in two styles), ....

Does anybody know if All Balls has the Husky swingarm needle bearings? ... Or a substitute.

One of my swingarm bearings got rusty.

Thanks, dave

I bought some on ebay for my 2000 WR.
 
How do I get those silly circlips out of the lower shock mount?

Any tips on removing that spherical beairng?

The old bolt and socket trick?

Thanks!
 
The only way I found to remove the circlip is to drill a small hole on the side of the linkage. Drill it close to where the two ends of the circlip come together. Put a small nail thru the hole and push on the clip. Once one end is exposed, you can pry it out with a screwdriver. Once you have one clip out, you can press out the heim joint with a socket. Learned this trick from a Husky dealer, that's how they do it. I think you can replace the heim joint with the needle bearing that Husky has used since 06. The bearing does not last nearly as long, but at least you don't have to mess with the circlips.
 
tree dodger;72046 said:
The only way I found to remove the circlip is to drill a small hole on the side of the linkage. Drill it close to where the two ends of the circlip come together. Put a small nail thru the hole and push on the clip. Once one end is exposed, you can pry it out with a screwdriver. Once you have one clip out, you can press out the heim joint with a socket. Learned this trick from a Husky dealer, that's how they do it. I think you can replace the heim joint with the needle bearing that Husky has used since 06. The bearing does not last nearly as long, but at least you don't have to mess with the circlips.

Thanks!

I just bought an all balls bearing.
 
Well I got the bike tore down yesterday and everything is in great shape except the shock linkage bearing.I think I will try the bushing from synergy seals.It really does pay to grease everything prior to ridding when new.Although the husky had much more grease than the last yz.
 
From what I have read it's a plastic of some sorts.With that said you
would think the sand would eat it up.For 12 bucks I figure it's worth a shot.As Drew said earlier thats the bearing that fails on all linkage bikes.
 
Terry B;73537 said:
From what I have read it's a plastic of some sorts.With that said you
would think the sand would eat it up.For 12 bucks I figure it's worth a shot.As Drew said earlier thats the bearing that fails on all linkage bikes.

Is that because it's the onlyl one without a zerk ?
 
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