• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Link for smr. What do you think?

manu

manu

Husqvarna
A Class
My 2010 smr is definitely too high for me, still wondering why they made these bikes like that. Anyway, kubalink is a little too much money imo but I have found an ad for the following link, half price of a kuba, seller says -2cm. Never seen one like that before. What do you think?


 
Yup i can vouch for those type or reversible inserts frind in SA uses them very popular there.

If its longer than your linkage then it will lower it.
I lowered mine 1.3/4" seat height with just 10mm of extra length in the linkage.

Measure your linkage and compare also 2cm isnt much.
 
Preload to the max because I like to have the bike feeling stiff like a road bike. Race sag 10mm if my memory is right. Because it was like riding on a camel back when I got the 510 a couple of years ago. Now it feels better suspensionwise, but man, I need a ladder and can't really stop at the traffic lights ( tiptoes hardly touch the ground on the right leg... and people laughing loud in their cars ). I will never jump triples, or even ride on a dirt track, so desperately need her lower ( I go to supermoto races, some riders are my size , and I don't see them struggling like me on the starting grid , so there must be a solution )
 
drop some money and have the forks and shock reworked so you have a lower seat height. don’t b a cheap ass. links change the ratio and the dampening curve which you do not want. if for street use and track. the bikes do not need 13” of travel. i took 7 inches out of mine. lower CG, rails turns like it is glued to the track.
 
huskyfrk said:
drop some money and have the forks and shock reworked so you have a lower seat height. don’t b a cheap ass. links change the ratio and the dampening curve which you do not want. if for street use and track. the bikes do not need 13” of travel. i took 7 inches out of mine. lower CG, rails turns like it is glued to the track.
Click to expand...

I guess you are right all the way; that bike is not really acting like one would expect from an "almost ready to race" supermoto, and I don't want it to be worse. I just did not know that could be achieved with forks and shocks reworked ( I you could explain that a bit, I am not really a techy person).Not really trying to be cheap, but I honestly thought another link was the only way to lower the bike.
 
Your way off on race sag, I raced mine on motocross tracks and usd it on the street. It was plenty stiff bone stock and a better M.x set up than the same year TC450. Your race sag should be 1/3 total travel, and you can start at 4", 100mm ish to test. If you dont notice any negative run that, which is deep sag for the travel.

I forget the actual number
I ran, but it sure wasnt 10mm. You bike must be stinkbugging horribly.
 
old3 said:
Your way off on race sag, I raced mine on motocross tracks and usd it on the street. It was plenty stiff bone stock and a better M.x set up than the same year TC450. Your race sag should be 1/3 total travel, and you can start at 4", 100mm ish to test. If you dont notice any negative run that, which is deep sag for the travel.

I forget the actual number
I ran, but it sure wasnt 10mm. You bike must be stinkbugging horribly.
Click to expand...

My mistake, I meant 100mm
 
Ok, then i strongly suggest you learn the butt sckootch to the side, plant one foot on the ground at a stop skill. Id use my right foot down most of the time on my SE950 and Adv950. I coulnt get more than toes down in those and im 6-1. Believe me, your SMR is small!

Your "preload to the max" statement has me thinking you never adjusted it. Iirc they were delivered with max preload, and thats no good. Get a buddy and do your rac sag measurments. With 3.5-4" of sag you shouldnt be that far off the ground with 17" wheels and an already factory lowered suspension.
 
If memory serves me right, some people had issues with links contacting the swingarm and causing damage.
 
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