• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Let's Get Some Good Pointers Before Battle

dartyppyt

Husqvarna
Pro Class
Team,

It's only -24 out and I have alot of prep time on my hands. I am by no means an expert but there are alot out there (not in a negative way).They are better than me and others with tons of great advice, tricks,techniques.

Why I started this Thread? They say it is 90% rider and 10% bike? Or something like that? Well, what if we could move that clicker a little and make that 85% rider 15% bike? I think alot of guys could use some good pointers, advice, etc..... from some of the best out there. Hey, if we can get these Husky's little higher on each podium, that creates sales, right? We win! This is advice we need from both 4 and 2 stroke riders. Plus, the economy is bad and maybe some of us can do some things with out spending alot of money that will make us better riders/racers.

What is everyone's opinion on a good training program that will help with endurance? Squats, excercise bike, steppers, etc...

What is a good diet program that enhances energy? Why?

What is good to eat that stores energy before/up to a race? Why?

Do any vitamins/supplements help? What are the best. Why?

How much to Hydrate the night before/up to/during a race? Why?

What are the best drinks to use. Why?

What are the best dead engine starting techniques/ hole shot techniques?

What is the best way to practice starts?

Now on to bike set up:

I am planning on sending out my suspension to either LTR or ACE. That is fine and dandy but what do you do after you get it back or don't have the money to do it? What are some good pointers on the clickers, raising and lowering the forks, sag adjustment, etc...... Maybe LTR or ACE could give us some pointers on fine tuning the following conditions:

Mud-Rocks-Roots?


Couple Mud Areas-Hard Pack-Roots?


Sand - Roots - Soft Loam?


Mostly Hard Pack?


What are the best tires and recommended tire pressures for:


Mud-Rocks-Roots?


Couple Mud Areas-Hard Pack-Roots?


Sand-Roots-Soft Loam?


Mostly Hard Pack?


What are the best grips to use? Why?


What are the benefits of Holeshot devices? Why?


What are the best ways to adjust your handlebars? Why?


What are the benefits of a steering stabilizer? Why?

What are the benefits of a Rekluse clutch? Why?


What are the benefits of changing your foot pegs? Why?


What are the benefits to raising and lowering your seat foam height? Why?


What are the benefits of aftermarket tanks versus just using a quickfill? Why?


What are the benefits of a solid brake rotor versus a wave? Why?


What are some of the best bike protection parts and Why?


What are some of the best riding pointers for tackling the following:


Logs

Deep Ruts

Tree Roots

Hills

Rocks

Sand

Mud

Hard Pack



I know that this is probably going to be one of the longest discussions but if we can learn the little tricks on 4-5 things out there. It will make us all better riders and move up on the podiums. Maybe we can push some of the other colors out of the way!

PS: If there are any other pointers that you would like to suggest, please comment on them!
 
I have two things to say about that post:

1. Holy Moly...

2. and Holy Moly!





Those are all excellent questions, and I hope you get a response for each of them.


:popcorn:
 
"I am planning on sending out my suspension to either LTR or ACE. That is fine and dandy but what do you do after you get it back or don't have the money to do it? What are some good pointers on the clickers, raising and lowering the forks, sag adjustment, etc...... "

My .02-
-Make sure your linkage and swingarm bearings are clean, lubed and in good condition!
-Make sure your fork bushings are in good shape. Worn bushing make the front end feel like crap
-Grease your steering head bearings. Replace the bearings if they're notchy. Make sure everything works the way it's supposed to before you mod anything!

Do your suspension before any other major mods!! :oldman:
I'm an ACE guy, can't advise on LTR.
-Front and rear springs should be matched to your weight,ability. Valving depends on your terrain.
-This allows you to properly set your rear sag. Set as specced in the manual (100mm or just under 4"). This will put the correct ratio of weight on your front vs rear when riding.
-The tighter the riding you do the more you want turning sharpness vs. straight line stability. Raise the forks in the triple clamps for sharper turning and better front wheel traction. A little goes a long way- I ride tight East coast woods and have one one line on my forks showing from the top. I tried two and found it too twitchy for me.
-Clicker settings depend on how fast you ride and what terrain you are in. It's not one size fits all, even for a certain type of terrain like rocks.
Any time you reduce compression damping you will need to increase rebound. Otherwise you bounce as the spring can push back too quickly. Fran at Bottones/ACE told me to find a hill with bumps/rocks. As you go up the hill, if your bike kicks sideways over bumps, increase the rear rebound a little at a time until the bike tracks straight. Just experiment with the front over various obstacles to get a feel for different settings. The manual gives you a good place to start but either suspension shop will give you some base settings.
I also use a 3.5 weight fluid (shock fluid) in my forks because it allows me even softer settings for brutal rock areas.

"What are the benefits of a steering stabilizer? Why?"
A steering damper lessens the front end deflecting off of roots and rocks. My KTM 300 benefited greatly from this-I think because the KTM's were prone to deflecting.
In the East I believe a steering damper is not needed if your suspension is set up correctly. Drew Smith of WER racing has said this among others. He makes a steering damper and does excellent suspension. I can't comment on high speed desert stuff.

"What are the benefits to raising and lowering your seat foam height? Why?"

The benefit is to reach the ground more easily:thinking:
I wouldn't take any foam out of your seat-there's hardly any there to begin with:D
To lower the seat height on our KTM's we would cut an inch out of the subframe and re-weld. Gives you a lower seat with no foam loss. Or you can get your suspension lowered. i put higher seat foam on to make the seat a little more comfortable and try not to fall down when i miss a dab.

"What are the best ways to adjust your handlebars? Why?"

Why, why, why??? jJust do what you're told!:lol:
Seriously folks, loosen your bars. Sit or stand on your bike (your typical riding position) and raise your arms up. Close your eyes and lower your arms in riding mode. Where your hands come down is where you want your grips to be. Again close your eyesand rest your hands on the grips. Adjust the levers to match your hand positions.

"What are the benefits of a solid brake rotor versus a wave? Why?"

-A solid rotor wears your brake pads less because less mud gets between your pads. The downside of the solid rotor is it will heat up more quickly in heavy braking situations such as long dry downhills or constant heavy braking

-My go-fast riding tip is to stand up-build up your leg endurance. When you stand your suspension works better and you don't beat up your body as much in rough terrain.

As you can see I too am stuck inside-5F today with 20-30 mph winds-don't want go outside today:thumbsdown:
 
race food:

1) Pasta with chicken or seafood the night before.

2) Coffee with banana and maybe some yogurt to calm the stomach 'morning of. I do a chocolate muffin as well.

3) Pop an aspirin. Drink an electrolyte drink.

4) Put electrolyte powder in your camelback. Use the stuff marathon runners use. There are many schools of thoughts on these additives, and different guys respond to different types, experiment. Talk to sales guys at stores for marathon runners.
 
Mike Kay;16792 said:
race food:

1) Pasta with chicken or seafood the night before.

2) Coffee with banana and maybe some yogurt to calm the stomach 'morning of. I do a chocolate muffin as well.

3) Pop an aspirin. Drink an electrolyte drink.

4) Put electrolyte powder in your camelback. Use the stuff marathon runners use. There are many schools of thoughts on these additives, and different guys respond to different types, experiment. Talk to sales guys at stores for marathon runners.

I learned the same things from spending years in the gym, & mountain biking, if you want to have endurance the following day, load up on carbs the night before. I used to get a product called "Power Pasta" years ago (double the carbs).
The day of the event, it's high protein, in any way you feel works for you, but not right before the event, have a couple hours between your protein intake & whatever event your in. Always stay well hydrated.
Don't drink alchohol the day before the event, save it for later, it's got wonderful healing properties after a rough day of exhaustion, bumps & bruises. :lol: :cheers:
 
My regiment is super simple, pre med with Ibuprofen, pretend I'm 15 years younger and ride smart so I spend as little energy as possible. :D
 
dartyppyt;16776 said:
Team,

What is a good diet program that enhances energy? Why?

What is good to eat that stores energy before/up to a race? Why?

Do any vitamins/supplements help? What are the best. Why?

How much to Hydrate the night before/up to/during a race? Why?

What are the best drinks to use. Why?

What are the best dead engine starting techniques/ hole shot techniques?

What is the best way to practice starts?


Eat clean all the time... no processed foods..... only veggies, good carbs and a lot of protein. Increases lean muscle mass and decreases /burns fat....

Im with Mike Kay on the night before food.

Here is what works for me for one hour GP MX races.....Eat Clean Carbohydrate the night before .....

Plain Pasta ( no suace) with Grilled Chicken Breast and a lot of water.

Build up water for a few days before your race.....

Race day a.m. Get up, take a big dump ..........I'm not kidding....... and eat a mid sized cereal bowl of steel rolled cut oatmeal with full fat Milk or half and half , some brown sugar and a handfull of walnuts and raisins. Slam another tall glass of water... this my friend will stick with you till the race is over but won't bloat you

While driving to the track eat 1 banana . ( load the potassium in)

If your allowed practice laps - do two practice laps 3.5 miles each- one for sighting and one at 75% race pace.... try different lines on each practice lap.

Come in and pit befroe the main event . Drink /slam a large Gatorade or Powerade..why???? because of the full sugar carb load. Your muscles need it.... the water the night before is so that you do not dehydrate. Eat half a whole wheat bagel with some chunky peanut butter , ( carb load) another banana ( more potassium) and eat a big slice of ham for protein. Load up your camelback with half gatorade half water and plan on hitting it hard about 35% of the way into your race. Stick it in your mouth and suck down a liter as you pour on teh speed . Then forget you have it on, reach down , grab your balls and ride as fffn hard as you can for the rest of the race..... pass the guys that didn't drink anything or eat proeprly and are now spent and falling off the side of the track hacking out the last pack of cigarettes from the night before ...

This will keep you hitting hard race pace for at least one hour.....and you will still feellike you can do another two laps when the race ends.

If it is hot, and it is usually hot as hell here in California, get someone to hold an umbrella over you at the starting line.... right before the gate drops have them pour an ice cold bottle of water all over your neck and down your back to cool you down and get the nerves under control

Best dead engine start is to have your bike jetted to perfection cause then it will start every time.... + have an estart TC450!

Holeshots..... there isn't a Japanese bike out there that can beat a Husky at a Holeshot..... grip it and rip it and never ever let off even if you need to get your boot up on the guy next to you when you hit the first corner.... never ever look back.......why would you...?

Vitamin D gives you back the energy that your not getting in today's ultraclean world..... Fish oil for a stronger immune system in general and eat clean and get your vitamins from clean food ... not a bottle....eat a lot of clean protein and veggies and cut way back on the carbs until the night before and the day of race day.... optimum performance diet

Starts.... get on your bike and practice your start technique until it is second nature.... and you feel comfortable.

T
 
/\ /\ /\ That whole post HuskyT is awesome! Super great advice! /\ /\ /\

I still take vitamins out of a bottle though. The big dump is hilarious but so true. I believe you should always drink water. Not just a few days before. Cut out sodas also. 1 can of soda can keep your muscles from absorbing water for up to two days. I haven’t had one in years.

For me, the right eating habits go next to a good workout program. I am fortunate enough that due to military life, we work out for about 1.5 to 2 hours 5 days a week. Personally i get tired and board sitting on a stationary bike. I prefer a quality Rowing Machine. It works more muscle groups. If you can swim, even better. For arm pump, go to a sports store and buy a jar of hand putty. When you are sitting doing nothing, you knead it. Works your forearms. You will be surprised how well it works. Stretching is a real important part also. You can do it anywhere. You will feel so much better keeping your body nimble.

There is a lot more but is a start

HuskyT hit the ridding parts.

Mike
 
Dieselox4;16846 said:
For arm pump, go to a sports store and buy a jar of hand putty. When you are sitting doing nothing, you knead it. Works your forearms. You will be surprised how well it works.

I'm wondering if anyone uses a ball of wax anymore?
I used to have one about golf ball size, you keep kneading it & eventualy it gets soft & pliable, leave it alone for about 15 minutes & use the other hand & repeat, I recall it was a great fore arm workout & good training to cut down on arm pump
 
I never used wax. Basically the same reason though. This stuff im talking about comes in bright colors. I use mine all day. I find it works better than those spring things. I dont worry about arm pump much any more.

Mike
 
I've heard, maybe somewhere on this forum, that you should move your piston just beyond tdc and it'll help your electric starter start the bike faster during dead engine starts.
 
I use the ebutton with the piston in the sweat spot, and at the same time i also kick it.
Works GREAT for holeshoting dead engine starts. Dont tell the non-Husky guys...
 
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