• 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

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    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

125-200cc Lectron tuning ?? X2

Yellowfin

Yellowfin

Husqvarna
A Class
I have searched the threads and got the basic tuning.

I am looking to get a nice idle with idle screw about 1.5 turns out, but that makes my motor scream! I need to have out about 4.5 to idle. So I'm guessing the metering rod is rich?

So which way do I want to turn metering rid to fix this? IN (clockwise) or Out (CC)

Also do I need that special tool to turn the metering rod?
 
the tool helps but you should be able to turn it by hand. if not get a clothes pin to help with turning it don't use pliers. Just call them they are great to work with
 
dont worry about the idle screw, long as its not way in or way out. tune the metering rod setting for performance, idle quality, etc. basically make it richer till it starts to get blubbery or throttle response in the bottom and mid ranges starts to suffer or soften. then lean it till it cleans up and just becomes crisp. now it is jetted safely and the idle screw ends up where it ends up. it the idle screw ends up being extreme in or out then a size change is probably needed in the metering rods second number.

metering rod threaded into the slide will richen the bottom/mid.

as for the tool, i greatly prefer using it compared to wrapping the rod in something and turning with pliers. the latter will do the job, but you must be careful to not damage the rod. i find it much handier to just grab the tool and use it. at least with my lectron it is about impossible to turn by hand, and i have pretty strong fingers.

if i had to guess you bike is a lil lean on bottom if it takes 4.5 turns out. not sure where my 360 is set at but it runs super clean and crisp, no surging, starts 2 kicks cold, first and sometimes 2nd kick hot. i had to richen it a good 2 turns on the rod to get acceptable idle without surging. this is how kevin at lectron basically told me to tune it.
 
Yellowfin, look on YouTube - there is a video of the Lectron owner showing you how to adjust the Lectron. Once you see it, you will get it.
 
So I dug into my lectron today to see that it does have an ms 3 rod.

Can someone give me a good starting length? Because it's way off.

Also the power jet was 2 turns out. Turned it back down and all my grey Spooge stopped
 
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