• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Leaks, leaks everywhere and .....

Suamico SD

Suamico SD

Husqvarna
AA Class
Ok maybe not everywhere, but the clutch master cylinder is leaking and fork seals.

2009 TXC 250 with magura Hyd. clutch
1) anyone rebuild a clutch mc lately? Cost? difficulty ?
2) what brand of fork seals last longest?
 
Lots of posts regarding the master cylinder rebuild kit. A search for leaky clutch or no clutch should return some results. In my experience oem seals are the best replacement. Tried several aftermarket brands seals on various bikes and oem always seems to last longest.
 
I think the Magura master cylinder on my KTM is nearly identical to that to the 310/2009 250. Kit was expensive but the install itself is easy. Back bleeding the fluid is the hardest part.
The Marzocchi fork seals on my 310 have gone many times. I find 'all balls' seals last as long as oem if the springs in the seal lip are tightened.
 
How expensive was it?

My 310 ate seals too, i wonder if they are the same? i think i have some left over from it.
 
Suamico SD said:
How expensive was it?

My 310 ate seals too, i wonder if they are the same? (Depends on which year 310 you have, the 2009-2010 had two different types, my 310 was one of the last "old Style" 310s ever made and it had the dual chambered Marzocchi 50mm "Shiver" forks. You can tell them by their red anodised cap) i think i have some left over from it.
Click to expand...

Somewhere around the $180 AUD mark, but we get butt rammed on prices here in Australia, wouldnt suprise me if it was half of that cost over your way. I decided not to rebuild it on the ktm, after all a few mls of oil every few months is far cheaper than the kit. Keep an eye on how much leaks, I found on the 310 that the external leak on the lever looked much worse than it actually was. The ktm leaks down the bore of the master cylinder, i think the piston has worn through the anodising on the bore. Either of which could be happening to you.

However you cant get away with leaks on the forks otherwise jump=no dampening= ouch
 
Hi, not sure about the clutch but it looks like you got a good response. A friend suggested I use Shock Sox to help my fork seals last longer. i have just 2,000 miles and have no leaks yet.

shock sox.JPG
 
The OEM replacement parts cost about $40 state side and includes a new piston and the seals .. Remove 1 snap ring and the piston comes out for replacing ... The bleeding out of the air will be the hardest part ...

----------

The seals on my clutch piston (08 TXC250) are not true o-rings but some sort of larger flat rubber pieces that are on the piston ...You can get these seals?

KXcam22 said:
Sounds like my KTM. As for the master cylinder rebuild, I found a hydraulic parts outfit that has a metric o-ring kit. I buy the o-rings individually for .25 each and then replace them more often (I think the KTM kit is $40). Sometimes the inner surface gets worn and you need to hone it out and smooth it with #600. Rebuild is very easy. On some bikes, Seal savers are a must to keep the seals alive. Cam.
Click to expand...
 
You can cut the old seals in half and use them as a driver also ... Grit is usually what makes these seals leak ...Just look at a seal ... nothing much to it really ...
 
Ok I finally got around to installing the seals. First issue, I dont have the correct tool to remove the top cap. I used a punch to break it free then a slip joint pliers. Not a great way to treat this machine. The old seals were furdefinitly toast!

When we reassembled them I was unable to get the top cap to thread on correctly. It looks like the threads are a little goobered up.

Any suggestions?

Whats the fastest way to get a new topcap and tool?
 
Crisis adverted! I used a small triangle file and repaired the threads good enough until i can replace the cap with a new one.

Seals done, Clutch leak solved!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top